All Activity

Tweeters on electric bass. I like the funny non linear cone breakup stuff in the higher frequencies of a paper cone that people take a great deal of effort to engineer out. And they sound horrendous with fuzz unless you're running some serious filtering, and if there's a proper crossover then the cab usually sounds plain dull with the tweeter level turned down, compared to just hearing the main driver run full-range.

Where did you find those angled connectors, @kiat? Good size!

Any bass with more than 4 strings isn't a bass and should be banned from being advertised as such. Wonky frets...pointless and trendy, much like pointy headstocks (i had 2 of those) Class D amps..(I have 2 of those) People who expect you to play for free on an outdoors "stage" that is basically a shelf. Darkglass...just because... I'll stop now as I can feel my blood boiling...

The question to Jean-Luc was about making a stereo cable, his jacks aren't silent.

+1 for this, had it for a long time before downsizing to hx stomp, incredibly responsive and purple which is always key

Guitar players whose playing would not be affected at all, if the little finger of their fretting hand was amputated.

I've been using inexpensive wireless bass and IEMs systems together in pub gigs for a few months with no problems. I've would hope the more expensive systems in the OP and comments would be even better. Just added a pro, rebadged Mi-Pro wireless bass system (the t.bone) recently and been testing 3 wireless systems on my new (and first) pedalboard, all coexisting without noticeable noise. * 2.4GHz variable - bass guitar * 2.4GHz fixed (afaict) - stereo IEMs * 5.8GHz variable - pedaboard to amp

Just bought a lovely Berg cab from Laurie. It was a pleasure to meet him and the cab is in superb condition as he described. Deal in confidence!

I mean, I have many gripes with the world of instruments, but the one that I'd say qualifies as a strange and slightly irrational hatred is instruments where the pickups+their surrounds are significantly different widths. The Yamaha BB series is the worst offender with the narrow little J pickup and the extra-wide P pickup in a chunky surround.

My first ever pedalboard which I'm really chuffed about. It's been a long, long while in the planning, but now reality and just a few days old. The design goals prioritise cableless audio and power, rather than lots of individual pedals. My board will be used for pub/function gigs, trialed yesterday at a pub jam and worked a treat. Only one actual audio processing pedal on it! Will be interested to hear your thoughts and ideas for similar. Hope some of this is of interest to others here. Fully cableless: * Powerbank powered, no mains at all * Wireless bass (signal in) * Wireless IEM system (stereo mix out to IEM earbuds) * Wireless DI (Post) to stage bass amp (signal out) Optional wires: * DI to band IEM mixer (Pre out) - the band IEM mixer also splits all incoming signals so that FOH can take my Pre signal from there, if desired * band IEM (stereo mix in) to headphone amp * DI to FOH (Post out) Functions: * Wireless bass, stereo IEMs and hot signal to amp * Separate bass signal out to always on tuner * When my bandmates don't use a band IEM mixer, I can still mix in my own Pre signal to my IEMs to hear myself optimally - and if they do, I get a mix feed, stereo or mono back by cable to my headphone amp, mixed with bass Pre to my IEMs * Both Post and Pre options for DI * USB hub underslung and powered by the powerbank * The whole board and all three pairs of battery powered audio devices (transmitters and receivers) lasts at least 6 hours, currently. I'm basically a multi-pedal guy and am not don't have a lot of time to perfecting sounds. When I need a sound I use or create one close enough that I'm happy with and my bandmates or sound engineer can tweak my amp or FOH. This Valeton GP-5 came today and completed my board. If I really, really need a particular pedal (had early lust for the new MXR synth pedal!) it can replace the GP-5 for the gig. My bass has a custom extension cable with a Neutrik silent right-angle jack to Neutrik female socket - connected to the wireless transmitter. Using a Thomann Finally, my cables are custom made (do the majority of us do this?) where I used very compact, low profile asymmetric TS jacks with a single screw and soldered with Sommer Tricone MkII cable which is a perfect fit. Here's a size comparison with a HiCON J63MA05.

Folk in denial that refuse to acknowledge that they would benefit from professional help ...

The worst one in Germany. The courier will ask to pay their expenses and custom fees in cash (no credit cards, no PayPal, nothing else but cash) and then be sending invoices for the same sum every now and then. Those responsible for the mess cannot be reached by phone nor by e-mail. The other ones answering phone calls will know nothing and be unable to do anything. But of course, they will be very sorry, the bastards. Then, a couple of months later, there will be some stupid guy asking per e-mail for one's IBAN "to make sure that everything has been paid properly." Then they'll hopefully sod off and go touch grass. Bloody scammers.

Oh i'm in Anyone that works in a music shop and insists in engaging in a conversation with me. When all i want to do is try something i will never buy Basses with the headstock that matches the body. When did interior design take over the bass world Jeff Berlin because he has a signature Cort bass and i fell for it. They will only ever sound good on fire!! Amps with sh*t loads of buttons. Just fook off Rehersal studios Any bass over £500. Ive had them all and none were keepers. Not worth a tos* Hardcase gig bags. unless your on a plane. Your only driving up the road you muppet

The Colonel Bogey March a.k.a. "Hitler has only got one Ball".

He’s a lovely lad, known him for years - can’t fault him on anything…except…that. So we don’t talk about the plastic plates on guitars

This is all tremendously helpful! Thank you all very much. Yes, it is the older 4B suitcase so it’s around 300w and my amp is the TH500 - I’ll have to be a bit careful not to push tooooo hard but it’ll only be for low volume stuff anyway so I’m not too concerned. Looking at the impedance to help with that is a very good idea. Also, the info and tips about testing speakers with multimeter is very much appreciated. I’ve a mate who has a background in electrical engineering so I might brace myself to take it to him (he’ll delight in explaining everything in eye-watering detail) and show him your comments to see if he can help with the testing, discuss wiring schemes/impedance etc. But I’m very heartened that it all seems very doable. Hopefully it’ll all work out and both save me a few hundred quid and the world a few resources. Thanks again! Liam