All Activity

Oh dear... My apologies to all who have provided excellent advice here. I should have absolutely, most definitely, acknowledged your kind responses in a timely fashion; but as such I have not. I shan't provide explanation as to the why, but I will stand here and take my licks for the poor showing of forum decorum. *screws tippy-toe into floor and looks coy* Sowee... To update all on my endeavours. I took all your advice - plugged things into the correct places, turned things on in the correct order, turned volumes up, then down, then down a bit more... then the vocalist shouted at me and I turned things up a little. All in all everything works great! Had a quick bit of a flashing DDT clipping light issue on the PA which was easily resolved with some trial and error on which input was to blame. Of course it was the lead guitarist! But we've settled into our new space really well (bar the single-glazed wooden windows that I swear will fall out eventually) and everything is working as expected. The drummer is most pleased after years of only being able to practice for 3 hours once a week, half the time of which was setting up and breaking down the kit, to now has a permanently set up and can pop in whenever he wants 24 hours a day! So thanks again for the tips and stuff. I did inwardly ingest all of them. I will now await a good berating on BC etiquette. As penance I will also pop along to a very old thread discussing my bricked Microtubes 900 with a recent update to the positive!

I don't anymore sadly. With my arthritis problems I am slowly selling off pretty much all my basses. I may keep one or two and something to play through but that will be about it.

You are clearly more "in the know" wrt the specifics of CPC - but yes that's how things generally work commercially. Additionally, the technical documentation from CPC esp wrt some of the products that appear exclusive to them is scant. eg look at connectors and cables etc. Datasheet info maybe scant - eg for a twisted pair you are unlikely to see the lay length or screen detail eg lapped / Reussen / braid etc. Service is reliable though and I order from them. And fwiw my (very corporate) employer uses both Farnell and CPC.

I believe that there have been agreements put in place that have made easier than it was at first, but there are still issues that need looking at. As the OP alludes to, you may need to look at how things differ from country to country. I understand that in some countries it ma be easier to hire backline, etc out there. I would be interested to see what Loz reports back from people who have first hand experience of playing out there recently.

I saw a mopho recently, will check where.

Is anyone attending the Big Church Festival this bank holiday weekend, down at Wiston House near Steyning? I am there (or at least, will be) for the duration. It would be good to bump into fellow Playing in Church basschatters near the discount CD sellers, or the acoustic tent.

@rwillett - you're up

One thing not to be worried about is a loss of low end… it’s monstrous! Ha. Zero low end loss, even when using sub octave pedals. It’s frankly gorgeous sounding.

I've just noticed that I commented on the later American Standard Precision models from 2011 to about 2015 at the beginning of this thread a few years ago, so obviously I am aware of them. I supposed that I really want advice on the 90s models compared with those from the early and late'00s periods.

Looking for a bit of advice please if anyone here can help me. I am currently looking for a Precision with a rosewood board. Beyond that I'm not sure what to look for. I could spend £3k on a Custom Shop, as I nearly did a few months ago, or I could get a Japanese one for £850 or so. I might not even go for a Fender and get something like a Lakland, or a Lull or a Valenti, should something interesting come up. However, I may well go for an American Standard as a middle option and I'm wondering what is the best period to look for. I currently have an American Standard Jazz, which I originally played when I tried out some s/h cabs I had bought from Bass Direct and ended up buying as I liked it so much. For some reason, I thought it was a 2009 model, but when I checked the serial number recently, found that it was a 98. I did have a 2005 Am Std Jazz before, which was very heavy and nowhere near as good. So, I'm wondering what the consensus is on what was the best period(s) for Fender Am Std P basses?

How do you like the Horrothia Type One? I'm considering it for my chorus, only concern is that it doesn't have a blend and am worried about loss of low end. I like the idea of one knob though.

Pea - Red Hot Chilli Peppers

There is - it is site questions, where you can mark an answer as having solved the problem.

@BlueMoon beat me to it. They are very good basses, they're just a lot easier to get hold of than some of the other models.

That's really interesting. Would a rod-less one provide an opportunity to add extra strength to the neck too, using the extra internal space? It is cool how the fingerboard material can change the tone of a neck. I have a few aluminium neck guitars, and most of them are one piece but then the one with an ebanol fingerboard definitely has its metallic harshness reined in a bit. Have you ever been tempted to try a fingerboard that preserves or even accentuates the natural sound of the graphite neck? I love weird sounding stuff!!

Thank you for your reply and for taking the time to go into such detail. I'm looking to buy a PB 62 1994 MIJ. Feel more confident now.

Yes we are very lucky to live in this part of the world. Thank you for your reply.

Welcome indeed. Read, ask loads of questions, post pictures of your bass. The fat fingers usually goes away. Didn't in my case but you should be fine. Not been to Glossop for ages, was brought up in Chesterfield but loved the peak district

It's possible, but not common, to make your posts a poll question. I wonder if the poster is able to mark an answer as 'best'?