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These days you can probably put the pics in AI and it will be able to scour the internet and find potential matches

Basic set-ups are very easy (by basic, I'm saying truss rod adjustment, intonation etc ) and a small amount of tickling only takes a few minutes. Assuming the above actions go without any problem, you may be opening yourself up to additional problems.

I have an aging Manson fretless where the action was too high and the truss rod adjusted about as much as it could be (in my limited knowledge). A suggestion was to put low tension strings on, which was a great idea, but now I can’t seem to get any relief at the 5th fret - really buzzy.

Spotted on Instagram. The Superlight bodies are now being built with a swamp ash centre and paulownia wings to increase sustain and bass response. It will be interesting to hear how they sound. https://www.instagram.com/p/DPqvTr0AqZm/?igsh=ZDlrbjR0cXRnMzc0

Looks like the fingerboard was taken off at some point, but they've done a rather crappy job of putting it back on. Either that or it's had some major humidity issues and the neck and fingerboard have shrunk/expanded at very different rates. Either way, it's not a good sign. I you really want to keep it, talk to the seller and get them to agree to an independent check-up - then if there's a major issue you can either fix it and get them to pay, or send it back. If you're not 100% dead set on keeping this exact guitar, send it back and find another one.

I've got a Warwick which needs the intonation adjusting but am scared of German reverse screw threads if you fancy having a look?

Most of the auditions I've done I've taken the time to chart out songs and stick it on the floor in front of me (even if I don't need it). As well as providing a useful memory aid, it shows you've taken the time to learn the songs. People in bands are people and they want you to do well. Always worth having a chat about any potentially tricky bits. I remember a band wanting me to play "Crazt Little Thing" in Bb on double bass (preposterous). I warned them it might suck and they all laughed and in the end it was fine. I still hate the song though, they can't take that from me!

I'm not familiar with this cab and frankly I don't believe some of the advertising nonsense about the resonator technology so I've kept away from offering too much advice. There is also good reason why most people don't use thin ply for cabs that live on the road and feet pulling out is something that really should not happen. I hope this was addressed in later versions. Anyway you don't need to worry about covering the holes in an internal partition, the white damping material is more or less transparent to sound, some hifi cabs are completely filled with polyester wadding and even have it compressed they even use wool, mineral fibre or glass wool in cabs. Anyway from basic principles the wadding in the cab should either be fixed to panels or the cab should be stuffed in such a way that it stays in place. Loose wadding needs to be kept away from the ends of any ports where the hopefully trouser flapping volume will also flap loose wadding If the wadding is meant to be fixed staples alon aren't really enough and I'd use some spray adhesive as well. Vent the cab after using the spray adhesive as the solvents might affect the speakers. The pressure changes at the resonance of the cab can be quite high and it will find any weak spots and create a rattle or buzz. Buzzing is higher frequency than the fundamental of course. Buzzing could be any mating surfaces in the cab including the speaker drivers and the glue joints between panels. You can exagerate them with a 50hz signal (there are plenty of online signal generators) amplified to high volumes but they are hard to find because of course they have loud sound from the 50hz sinal to hide behind. Just because you have found one buzz it doesn't mean there aren't others. That looks like a very standard switch on the back of the cab, you should be able to de-solder it and put in a new one or find a competent repair tech who can do it for you cheaper than a new panel. Good luck

One thing I learned the other night was to consider using a chart if the song arrangement is different from the record. Mr Blue Sky by ELO. Sit me down with cans on and I'll reproduce that line every time playing along to the original without any visual aid or chart or anything. Playing it with just a drummer, two guitarists and a singer, in an audition scenario, you lose a lot of your cues and, unrehearsed with a very different arrangement, it's easy to drop the ball. In retrospect, I should have said that I'm going to use a chart to stay on track as I know the song but not the arrangement. The end of the song was played differently, which was a surprise and that's just something you have to deal with on the spot. The other songs were very guitar based and had simple arrangements so there were no issues.

Buy the Auralex real deal or even the Harley Benton copy @Kev, it won't flex at all as the upper part is a thick ... wooden panel, so you'll be able to use the mandatory feet of your combo to also avoid some wobbling in the bass region as a passive radiator is a speaker without its magnet, which is acoustically coupled to the "real" speaker to enhance its response (often in the low end). And send back that piece of shīt you bought from Amazon. The Harley Benton sound isolation/decoupling riser is even cheaper than the thing you bought from Amazon: https://www.thomann.co.uk/harley_benton_amp_iso_1.htm

Not sure if this is exhaustive, but these are the ones I can remember having: 3Leaf Audio Chromatron Doom Doom 2 Octabvre MKII Wonderlove Aguilar Filter Twin Octamizer Ampeg SGT-DI Arion Stereo Chorus Behringer BM-13 phaser Boss AW-3 LS-2 OC-2 OC-5 Broughton Audio Fliptop Josh Wah Chase Bliss Wombtone MKII Wombtone Billy Strings Cog Effects T-16 (v1) T-47 (latest) Emma Electronic Okto Nøjs EHX QBalls Enigma QTron (big box) QTron+ Heavy Procrastination Industries Mortrix Iron Ether Subterranea Xerograph Morningstar Engineering MC6 MC6 Pro MC8 ML10X Mr Black Fwonkbeta Mu-Tron Micro-Tron III Micro-Tron IV MXR Bass Chorus Deluxe Bass Distortion Bass Envelope Filter Bass Octave Deluxe Phase 90 (block) Phase 90 (script) Phase 95 Vintage Bass Octave Origin Effects Cali76 Compact Bass Cali76 Bass Comp. BassRig ‘64 Black Panel BassRig Super Vintage Panda Audio Future Impact I Future Impact v3 Future Impact V4 Future Impact V4 VIP MIDIBeam MIDIBeam 4Control Shift Line Cabzone X Flex Olympic MKIIIS Singular Sound Beat Buddy Source Audio Aftershock Artifakt Atlas Bass ZIO C4 Collider Encounter EQ2 Gemini Lunar Manta Mercury Neuro Hub Nemesis Nemesis ADT Spectrum Ultrawave Beta Ventris ZIO SushiBox Grand Slampegg TC Electronic Sentry Spectracomp ZVEX Mastotron

Keep Hauling - Fisherman's Friends

I’ve got some Amazon credit so I’ve bought Vol 1.

Split your midi keyboard sounds, bass with your left hand, piano stabs with your right. Easy….right?! 😅 Si

What do you need setting up? What needs doing exactly? I was going to do set ups at the SW Bash but there was very little interest.

If the bottom passive radiator is too close to the floor it will change the tuning of the cabinet. That’s (partly)what the feet are for.