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I've not as yet. My Bose headphones are battery powered, music plays whether I switch on the Bose or not, but the sound becomes much louder when I turn on the Bose noise cancelling. I presume they are acting like a headphone amp.

So while you can't polish a turd, it turns out you can lacquer one:

I'm not going but a good friend is doing a didjeridu performance & workshop at 11am on Thursday at Toad Hall in the Green Futures field.

It is under warranty and returns. I've until the 8th of July to return it.

I remember the sound he used to get on fretless…it was wonderful 😎. Sad news..

I am not sure to be honest. Some of the suggestions have been helpful.

Yes. No point owning it otherwise. Insure it properly and gig it.

In this instance, any switch or contact cleaner will not work. Those tactile microsites are sealed and do not work in the same way as a traditional electro-mechanical switch. There may be a need for some lubricant in the actual stomp button to keep is moving freely. As @Phil Starr says, you can experiment with foam or felt pads between the springs and the switch, but be careful. Firstly, the switches themselves are not that robust and secondly, too much pressure may lead to the switch being activated permanently, as though your foot was always on the foot switch. Use the rubber end of a pencil or even a cotton buds to make sure that the switch itself is still operating correctly.

I bought a bass and an amp with the proceeds of a summer job. A year later, after another summer job, I bought a cab. After a year of playing along to records I was ready to play with other musicians. Within 3 months of getting the cab I'd done my first gig. My bass was second hand and the amp and cab were new but the cheapest I could find. The sound quality didn't matter. It was a live bass sound and, with all its faults, it just sounded wonderful. Play your favourite songs. Start with simple songs, and when you can do that expand your material to stuff you find more difficult. Learn scales, common riffs and patterns.

You'd be the only bloomin' one..!

Small world. I left Cornwall in 1956 and moved back 5 years ago. Now live in Mylor Bridge.

I tend to rotate my basses so whether playing at home, recording or gigging, each one gets treated the same. I can't justify having nice kit if it isn't getting used. An unused bass is a holiday that I can't go on because the money is tied up in an unused instrument.

Anyone going? I'll be there for a child free weekend!

@nuno1959, seems like you didn't read my answer... I've been an official accredited repairer, long ago, urm, very long ago, and always received the schematics asked, but it was my day job back then (and I can't say I've become rich thanks to it, but that's another story). The other way round is to follow the circuit and use what we've always used, an oscilloscope and a signal generator or even faster, simply knowledge as I've fixed 99% of default amps without any schematic.

Agreed re your Stingray, EJWW. The lack of a centre detent on the controls means you can never get the same sound twice. I had the same problem with a piezo Stingray, and even moreso with an ACG Recurve with a Parametric EQ. It was utterly baffling and I could never get a consistent sound that I liked again. Also, different preamp makers choose different frequencies. If you know Status basses well, you know that the frequencies are very well chosen, as you can run the treble and bass full on and it brings the instrument to life with no harshness or boominess. Fenders tend to be a little harsher, so I go more carefully and just boost a little. I did have one of the Mayones Jabba Jazzes for a while and it was quite a nice setup as standard. Again, you needed to be quite measured with how much boost you added. A lot also depends on what kind of music you're playing. In the live shows I do, I often need a lot of subtlety and control for certain numbers, so I can palm mute with no booms and play gently and with great tactility at times, so a passive bass is ideal.