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I’ve used both and now use neither. For me, it was always about playability. A really good jazz neck is perfect for me, and an active jazz can give a pretty wide tonal range. There is, however, a big difference, as many have pointed out here, between living room tone and gigging tone, and, for me, that’s almost always going to mean using an active bass. Right now, that’s a Peavey Dynabass 5…which has a wonderful jazz-like neck bur also monstrous super ferrite soap bars.

That's fair enough. To be honest it was the reissue that made me aware of the original. I played one (reissue) in The Gallery once and thought it was ok 😊 Never seen or touched an original one (yet)

Sold Jimmy a wireless system last week. Very quick transaction and quick replies to messages. Top Basschatter!

I see you've just blown your cover as one of the Geurrilla Skeptics 😎

Uh-huh. The bestest.

Indeed, but it's not up to the quality of sound of an original and I've owned each and every model (fretted, fretless, 4 and 5 in all iterations) along the years. 😉

I’m a man - Spencer Davis Group ( or Chicago)

Welcome Chap.

Naughty Man - Brian Pern

The newer versions put out in more recent years are hard to find as well.

Neck fit is getting closer - this is all hand tools shaping so it can't be rushed. Looking a bit rasp-rough at the moment ... but lots more wood to come off still. One issue that has been highlighted is how bodged the previous neck re-glue was and how 'out' the original neck pocket was built. I wondered why the neck appeared to have been glued in without being fully seated in the pocket = in other words glued to the sides but not even touching in a lot of the bottom of the pocket. Well that would appear to have been a bodged attempt to face the neck properly down the centre line of the body. with the new neck properly seated and its mating face at exactly 90 degrees in all directions the neck and the fingerboard (strapped on with tape for the test) point way too far over to the bass side f hole. The whole neck pocket must be out of true with the centre line. The solution is to plane and use a cabinet scraper to deliberately take the back of the heel down on one side - thus pointing the neck/fingerboard once more along the centre line. For those into tools - the lion's share of the wood stock removal on this project has been done with the 'rip' side of a 250mm Japanese Ryoba hand saw. I really can't speak highly enough about how good these saws are. Maple is hard = and a bitch to hand saw - but not with one of these. The Ryoba cuts like a sharp breadknife through a fresh sourdough loaf ... so satisfying.

I play mostly in Church bands. Currently my main bass is a dingwall d-roc and I'm just trading a fender P in to get a Dingwall NG3. Play mostly DI into PA systems but also have an Aguilar Toneahammer and SL cab.

That said, the original Ibanez Affirma (AFR) designed by the late Rolph Spuler is becoming rarer these days.

I’ve owned 2 USA Fender Ps and a Jazz, all sold and currently have a Mex P. I can’t tell the difference except the neck is on the Mex P is more like a Jazz. I like them but I don’t think they are particularly different to other basses.

Use an octaver and play it on your regular bass.

Last summer I saw a garage sales. There was this pearl white Charvel. Beaten, 3 strings, dirty. If I was into 80's hair metal, that would have been it: cleaning, new strings, and lots of playing. The price was something like under £100, but it wasn't for me. Some 15 years ago I saw a pearl white (what?) Ibanez that was also beaten and dirty, but as I do not like white colour (although the fretboard was rosewood), I left it to the shop. £120 or so. Both would have been good instruments with some care (cleaning, setup, strings). Try to find one now, doable, but the prices are crazy.

Let me fix that for you

You and @Jack are gentlemen with impeccable taste.

I'm not sure it's going to work. Their new material is written in drop G. I can't get my 5 string that low without the first seven frets on the bottom string all sounding the same. I think it needs an extra long multiscale and I'm not sure I want to invest £1000+ in a Spector Dimension or Dingwall (cheaper multiscales are a bit shorter) without knowing it'll work out.

I choose what bass I play 🙂 Jazz bass compared to p-bass? Just crank the gain a bit and enjoy the versatility.

Do that blind test with similar strings and come back to tell us your findings.

I would have gladly but the order went from “available in 2-5 days” to “in stock within 10-13 weeks”, so I’ve cancelled it. They also decreased the price as soon as they went out of stock. Seems like the dirty tactics are still rife almost ten years since I got out! I might order elsewhere at a later date, but for now I’ve just used my discount on an alternative set.