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Normal crappy Jazz scratchplate but more decorative control plate.

Go wireless, problem solved.

I was trying to find the original diagram that I worked from and didn't, and I didn't download it either which is annoying. However, I did find another reference page which shows clearly what I did, as I do have text notes to tell me what connections to make. I should have checked those wiring diagrams properly against what I used. https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/learn-about-guitar-pickups-and-electronics-and-wiring/blend-pot-wiring/ My notes definitely say to connect the crossovered non-hot ends to ground. If you compare that to a V/V/T setup, the pickups are loaded exactly the same - at one end of travel the pickup hot goes to ground, from the halfway point to the opposite end the pickup hot is straight to volume hot, and in between fully off and the centre point there is a varying amount of resistance. https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/learn-about-guitar-pickups-and-electronics-and-wiring/learn-about-wiring-stewmac-pickups/stewmac-bass-pickup-wiring-diagrams/ - second diagram

Dopesmoker - Sleep

Only had first hand experience with the L2500, but I would pick it any day of the week and twice on Sundays over any J bass. Why? Well, the purely personal answer is that I despise J basses. MFD pickups sound amazing. If you *really* want a single coil sound from the L2500, you can mod it to provide that with inner or outer coils by changing one selector switch. The G&L bridge is fabulous, apart from the saddle lock feature, it has lovely rounded edges which make it a joy for palm muting at the bridge - no sticky out bits anywhere. I love Sire basses (I've owned two - had a D5, still have a Z7), it'll be a fine bass, but the V is a J bass and so as far as I'm concerned, it can get in the bin.

2001 Spliff Odyssey - Thievery Corporation

Happy Boxing Day to all ! Bored with Christmas TV 😴 ? Does anyone out there have any first hand experience comparing these two basses ? If both basses were fretted 5 string, maple fretboard models, regardless of year of manufacture, given the choice, which one would you opt for and why ?

@Hellzero is right. I want to use the UMC1820 interface as the hub. I have an electric piano (stereo), synth module (stereo), bass guitar input, and a microphone, two midi channels, plus the PC, all plugged into the UMC1820. Moreover, I still have two spare input channels too. The UMC1820 acts as a midi device for the purpose of Musescore too (Cubase was too complicated for me).

When life farts in your face, make fartade? I've ordered some stuff. Because it's still 2025. Watch this space...

Reefer Madness - Hawkwind

I was so tempted to custom make a 5 string version of that but could never pluck up the justification!

Hi. I believe in honest analysis and judgement of one's performances in order to adjust and improve. I'm also a great believer in health and safety and have cleared my house of furniture in order to perform 'The Zip' where appropriate. Since the clearance, I've frequently noticed my instrument cable twisted into knots, and on further analysis notice that I'm rotating anti-clockwise during rehearsal. I've checked the sink and bath and they drain water in the other direction of spin, proving it's not universal forces. All I'm left with is that I'm either trying to get round the front on the fretboard, or trying to get away from the cable? Has anyone else experienced this and do you know what causes it? I've attached an image to help identify the issue.

Purchases were scant this year 🙂 Bought 4 lipstick pickups for a build and I replaced the Herrick quad-coil in my Bonnywood 51 with a great single coil from China. Sold by 7th Song, I imagine that's the dynasty not anything music related 😀 It's a cracking wee thing, cloth push wires, white string wrap, alnico 5 slugs; best of all it's just 6.7k DCR so closer to Fender single coils from 70 years ago than the 9k/9.5k which others market as 'vintage voiced'. Just £17 inc delivery, I call that a result 😎

Welcome to BassChat

Lots of good ideas for working with your current gear. . . . but, how about buying a better bass, or a good preamp pedal to add more clarity and definition to your sound.

a minimalist approach...

I’ve been pretty much coasting along in comparison to many in this thread. I did meet up with a bunch of old mates from the 80s that I hadn’t seen for years and sadly one is now in a wheelchair with MS. I already knew this but actually seeing him like this wasn’t that pleasant. One of the others was due to have stent fitted but refused the op as apparently he could suffer a stroke (he’s already had 2). Oh for those days in the 80s when we were all young and seemingly indestructible.

Is the pedal definitely the correct one for the head? (there may be different versions for different generations of head). I would expect that once the pedal is connected that it takes precedence, and probably best not to use the head's switches. Are all of the switches on both the head and pedal momentary or latching? (The type of each switch on the pedal should be the same as the one on the head). If all the lights on the head are on, what happens when you insert the pedal connector? (Do all hot switching tests with master volume at zero). If certain pedal switches don't work every time they are pressed, it could be they need their contacts cleaning. It could also be worth cleaning the pins and female pin sockets on the head. Although there are many switch cleaning products available, I'd recommend Deoxit D5.