6stringbassist Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I just bought a rather nice Shuker 6 string fretless, it was originally fretted but the original owner had Martin Petersen remove the frets. It has a rosewood fretboard that's starting to get scratched by my roundwound strings. I was reading this the other day about putting a layer of superglue on the board to protect it, I should imagine it'll change the sound a bit too. [url="http://subcontrabassist.com/smf/index.php?topic=367.0"]http://subcontrabassist.com/smf/index.php?topic=367.0[/url] Anyone ever tried it, and how did they do it without getting into a right mess ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YouMa Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Surely cyanocrylate or super glue would crack and flake it has very little flexability,i think i would stick with some sort of epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golchen Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 For a decent bass like that I'd get a pro job done rather than bugger it up yourself (no offense intended!). I'd ditch the roundwounds as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machines Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I think stick with the roundwounds if that gets you your sound, but some marine expoy would be good. I'm currently stripping and refinishing my Yamaha RBX and am going to do this on it. Bought some yacht varnish from Wilkinsons for £3.49 - should do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Yes, mine has a super glue finish, about 6 tubes. It's very hard wearing, I've used it daily and it's not flaking, pitting or cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Oh yes....a pro did the job Dave Dearnley in Cardiff, he's very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBod Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I've done two or three over the years (never an expensive bass) and it can work extremely well. You can use a very thin layer, it just takes a while to build up an even coating. The sound will change, to a brighter more Jaco growl - less wood, more whine. It really is tough - you will get small surface scrathes but nothing deeper for a long,long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Have a look here: [url="http://www.woodwiz.com/epoxy/"]HG Thor[/url] these are amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6stringbassist Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 [quote name='Jase' post='513269' date='Jun 14 2009, 12:54 PM']Have a look here: [url="http://www.woodwiz.com/epoxy/"]HG Thor[/url] these are amazing![/quote] Thanks ! They do look amazing. I've tried flats and I don't get that growl or mwah sound at all, maybe I need lighter flats but I'm not exactly spolied for choice with it being a 6 string. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YouMa Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Amazing! is it just loctite or some brand like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Get a pro job. If you fudge it up on a decent bass it'll probably cost you more to get it repaired (presuming it's a neck through/Set neck, not a bolt on where you could just comission a new neck if you broke it). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biro Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 a fellow memeber of an italian bass forum has written a very through tutorial on how to put a layer (actually, more than one) of superglue on a fretless board. I've seen a couple of basses that have undertaken this treatment, and I really have to say they both looked and sounded better to me. Well, it's not exactly something I would do on an ebony or wenge fingerboard (the first being hard enough, the latter to wide-grained). but it appears to work beautifully on a rosewood or maple (yummy!9) finegerboard. here's the link to the tutorial: [url="http://www.gospel.bo.it/albums/userpics/10221/finitura_tastiera_basso_fretless_con_cianoacrilato.pdf"]http://www.gospel.bo.it/albums/userpics/10...anoacrilato.pdf[/url] unfortunately, it's in italian, but I guess you could babelfish it easily. If not, I'ask the author to give me permission to translate it. But, as far as my english proficiency is concerned, I fear it wouldn't be such a great deal. babelfish is definitely more skilled than I am! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biro Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 before I forget: I've also seen and played several epoxyed fingerboard. I haven't managed fo find great differences. sound-wise the superglue treatment seems to be a great and fairly cheaper alternative to the epoxy coating. the basses also feel very similar under your fingertips, as far as I can remeber: but I've never had the chance to set up an A/B test, so it's possible that I'm not considering subtle differences that may bother someone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisba Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 [quote]marine expoy would be good. ... Bought some yacht varnish from Wilkinsons for £3.49 - should do the job.[/quote] Yacht varnish isn't normally epoxy, by default it would be polyurethane. Epoxy would be two part ( i.e comes in two separate packs that need to be mixed) , and would say epoxy explicitly on the tin. Great stuff - lasts forever, even outdoors. Trust me, I've varnished a few yachts in my time, including the one in my avatar ( although that's mainly fibre-glass and carbon ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Try the Status half-rounds, they're growlier than flats but just as smooth. I like a woody tone to my fretless, I gasp when people go and epoxy over a lovely wooden board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 ronseal dimond hard wood varnish is what i used. no recomended really, hard as anything but to tends to flow a lot, so either it just slides of the radius of the fretboard or if you mask it in puddles and you loose the radius. then its too hard to sand back! works ok though apart form that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james_d Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Why not try and use some proper wood varnish or something, after a while the glue will just peel and look a mess and probably sound weird. Tip - do not play on your bass before your glue has dried if you use it...lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlloyd Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 [quote name='YouMa' post='513248' date='Jun 14 2009, 12:23 PM']Surely cyanocrylate or super glue would crack and flake it has very little flexability,i think i would stick with some sort of epoxy.[/quote] I've had a thin layer of superglue on my fretless for a couple of years... no flaking, and it gets a lot of use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beer of the Bass Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 I've also seen an article by Dan Erlewine from a couple of years back [url="http://www.bassplayer.com/article/superglue-savior/jun-06/20674"]here[/url]. I've thought about trying it on my Westone fretless, but never got around to it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry norton Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Why not go all out and have a metal board - I've heard of fretless guitars with a thin brass veneer glued over the original wooden board. It should sound a bit brighter and punchier than wood, even with a hard surface like superglue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BB2000 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 [quote name='Beer of the Bass' post='521957' date='Jun 23 2009, 06:40 PM']I've also seen an article by Dan Erlewine from a couple of years back [url="http://www.bassplayer.com/article/superglue-savior/jun-06/20674"]here[/url]. I've thought about trying it on my Westone fretless, but never got around to it...[/quote] I tried following that article after having a fretless with a thor finish on loan. Needless to say, it's a bit more difficult than Dan makes it out to be. If trying to do it again I'd practice on a hardwood offcut first, until I was happy with the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 [quote name='LukeFRC' post='514802' date='Jun 15 2009, 09:49 PM']ronseal dimond hard wood varnish is what i used. no recomended really, hard as anything but to tends to flow a lot, so either it just slides of the radius of the fretboard or if you mask it in puddles and you loose the radius. then its too hard to sand back! works ok though apart form that[/quote] You could try rubbing that stuff on with a cloth. If its that thin it should go on a treat and you can put on really thin layers, as you can wipe off the excess as you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hummel Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 I'm having a Westone Superheadless & Fretless get the CA treatment...This is done by a pro with a lot of experience in this field, I've played several fretless basses with a CA coated fretboard and it does feel different, sounds different and is very tough. Applying isn't the hardest work, you build up layers (up to ten) and then the real labour starts; sanding and polishing... If you're interested I'll try to make some pic's, we are at layer #4 at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftybassman392 Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Been speaking about this to the guy who makes Regenerate GuitarWorks instruments. Now here's a man who REALLY knows what to do! Check this out: [url="http://www.leftybassist.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1041"]Coating fretboards[/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunetune_jazz Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) Not herd of that one Kevin.....but I did have super Glue on the Tone Controls from one of my latest acquisitions..... I know the chap wanted some control over the tone but that was just taking the P*** me and Steve from [Guitar Tech] did have a good laugh Thanks to Steve for fixing the problem.... Jazz [quote name='6stringbassist' post='513245' date='Jun 14 2009, 12:19 PM']I just bought a rather nice Shuker 6 string fretless, it was originally fretted but the original owner had Martin Petersen remove the frets. It has a rosewood fretboard that's starting to get scratched by my roundwound strings. I was reading this the other day about putting a layer of superglue on the board to protect it, I should imagine it'll change the sound a bit too. [url="http://subcontrabassist.com/smf/index.php?topic=367.0"]http://subcontrabassist.com/smf/index.php?topic=367.0[/url] Anyone ever tried it, and how did they do it without getting into a right mess ? Thanks [/quote] Edited July 11, 2009 by dunetune_jazz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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