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Bridges


Olly230770
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What are your opinions on bridges? I am looking for opinions and reviews. I have a Squier P Bass (Mike Dirnt Signature) that is easily the best bass i have played in 25 years (alongside Fender, Peavey, BC Rich, Eiphone, Warwick and even, dare I say it Ricks etc) its is well made and sounds great, as well as being very light. I am looking at changing the bridge, just to give it a bit more sustain and power. Obviously BADASS 2 is the choice of champions (so I have been told) but there are others that are catching my eye such as Babicz, Hipshot, Schaeler to name a few. I play a variety of styles in a varioety of bands, however I like a deep low and dirty sound, which can also drop into a cleaner more picked out sond when needed. I use a Lnaey Rig (4x10" through a 150 head) which does the job nicely, although am toying with switching to HARTKE. Does anyone have a bridge that they recommend?

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I`d say it depends on the bass you want to add it to. In my opinion, a replacement bridge does change the sound, having had Badass bridges on both Jazzes and Precisions. To me, they tighten the lows, and crisp the highs, so they add to what a Jazz is good at, but remove from what a Precision is good at (imo).

Although all of this is when playing the bass at home, at quiet volumes. In a band situation, I never noticed any difference at all. I`d look at changing pickups before changing bridges if wanting to make a real difference.

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I've heard (read here) that the Badass can sit high even when screwed right down & a neck shim is sometimes needed to correct the action - I have no personal experience with this, but others may chime in.

The Schaller 3D is the opposite and sits very low & flat, but comes (new) with a hard plastic seating to raise it should there not be enough adjustment. This one, I do have experience of & personally found it very decent. My only concern is that the shim is plastic - metal would have been better. It also sits comfortably beneath the heel of the hand, should that be your playing style.

There's a lot of folk on here like the Babicz too.

Good luck with the hunt.

G.

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A replacement bridge makes very little difference to the sound of a bass, IMHO. It may be the placebo effect, who knows? I'd get a replacement bridge only for cosmetic and/or aesthetic reasons. There is generally very little wrong with the stock bridge on a bass.

Given the high price of some replacements, you'd be better off investing the money elsewhere. Again, IMHO. :)

Edited by discreet
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[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1361544477' post='1987297']
A replacement bridge makes very little difference to the sound of a bass, IMHO. It may be the placebo effect, who knows? I'd get a replacement bridge only for cosmetic and/or aesthetic reasons. There is generally very little wrong with the stock bridge on a bass.

Given the high price of some replacements, you'd be better off investing the money elsewhere. Again, IMHO. :)
[/quote]
This is my experience too. As for extra sustain, I've never had a bass that needed more sustain, it's usually the other way around and it needs careful muting.

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Oh I dunno discreet, the Badass on my 70s Jazz did wonders for the sustain. Even Fender put them on some models! But whatever high mass bridge you go for won't make much difference to be honest. The Gotoh 201 on my 90s jazz also improved sustain, its more available and cheaper than a Badass, plus it looks like the original Fender piece of tin.

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[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1361544477' post='1987297']
A replacement bridge makes very little difference to the sound of a bass, IMHO. It may be the placebo effect, who knows? I'd get a replacement bridge only for cosmetic and/or aesthetic reasons. There is generally very little wrong with the stock bridge on a bass.

Given the high price of some replacements, you'd be better off investing the money elsewhere. Again, IMHO. :)
[/quote]

I agree. The only reason I'd replace a bridge would be for adjustability.

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I don't like the BBOT as it seems to rub my hand in exactly the wrong place - I rest on the bridge a lot when playing (with a pick) - so I have usually replaced the bridges on basses I use a lot. I haven't tried a Badass but on my MIJ Fender Precision (and other similar basses) I have fitted a Gotoh 201, a Gotoh-a-like and a Hipshot A style Fender retrofit. Of those the Hipshot is the best by some way in terms of build quality and making a noticable difference to the sound and sustain. I see there is one offered for sale on here (not by me). I terms of value for money the Gotoh-a-like, at around £12 on eBay, was best - not as well made as the proper Gotoh but did the same job.

These are changes that can easily be reversed and the bridges can be sold on again. I think it is interesting to try.

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[quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1361544981' post='1987314']
I don't like the BBOT as it seems to rub my hand in exactly the wrong place - I rest on the bridge a lot when playing (with a pick) ...
[/quote]
That seems reasonable grounds for changing a bridge but it's also in part what the original bridge cover was for.

Edited by EssentialTension
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[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1361544477' post='1987297']
A replacement bridge makes very little difference to the sound of a bass, IMHO. It may be the placebo effect, who knows? I'd get a replacement bridge only for cosmetic and/or aesthetic reasons. There is generally very little wrong with the stock bridge on a bass.

Given the high price of some replacements, you'd be better off investing the money elsewhere. Again, IMHO. :)
[/quote]
[quote name='xilddx' timestamp='1361544799' post='1987306']
I agree. The only reason I'd replace a bridge would be for adjustability.
[/quote]

I agree with these two fellas to an extent in so much as most basses have adequate bridges to begin with and swapping a half decent bridge for another one won't garner much of a worthwhile or perceptible improvement in sound . I have found from personal experience however , that on Fender - style basses some alternatives to the stock BBOT bridge such as the Badass do give a bit more clarity in the upper registers of the D and G strings and a slightly more defined sound in general . It's a subtle improvement , but worthwhile , to my tastes at least . The HMV bridge on the latest American Standard Fender sounds great and looks just like a traditional Fender bridge , but I don't know if they sell them as an aftermarket item . Tracked saddles on a bridge help stop the intonation slipping , too .

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[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1361547133' post='1987358']
Can someone explain the science as to why they would change your sound or sustain please?
[/quote]
The more the bridge allows greater sustain then the less the movement of the string will resonate through the body wood and the more sense it would make to have a plywood bass .... ;)

Edited by EssentialTension
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[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1361547133' post='1987358']
Can someone explain the science as to why they would change your sound or sustain please?
[/quote]

[url="http://www.weebls-stuff.com/toons/science/"]http://www.weebls-stuff.com/toons/science/[/url]

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The science of sustain is very simple. Any energy transferred from the string to the bridge will reduce the movement of the string. If the bridge moves over the metal plate then this would do it as would any flexing of the plate itself. The standard bent metal bridge of the traditional fender would appear to have several weak design features. The plate itself can be very thin and fairly flexible steel. The grooved roller bridges are mounted on very flimsy grub screws which finger pressure can move easily over the shiny chromed plate. The grooved roller doesn't seem to be the best mount for the string either as it runs through a length of groove rather than pivoting on a knife edge.

Whether this adds up to anything significant compared to the losses in the neck and body I have no idea.

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[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1361549393' post='1987406']
The science of sustain is very simple. Any energy transferred from the string to the bridge will reduce the movement of the string. If the bridge moves over the metal plate then this would do it as would any flexing of the plate itself. The standard bent metal bridge of the traditional fender would appear to have several weak design features. The plate itself can be very thin and fairly flexible steel. The grooved roller bridges are mounted on very flimsy grub screws which finger pressure can move easily over the shiny chromed plate. The grooved roller doesn't seem to be the best mount for the string either as it runs through a length of groove rather than pivoting on a knife edge.

Whether this adds up to anything significant compared to the losses in the neck and body I have no idea.
[/quote]
... and so the greater the sustain properties of the bridge, the lesser the resonance from the body. While I'm unconvinced that it makes much difference to the outcome in the sound, you can't increase sustain without reducing resonance.

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Got a '71 Precision - had a Badass II on it for most of its life.
The difference in sound is not detectable by 'normal' human ears. The only advantage to changing bridges: No sharp, pointy bits to scrape your hand on, and looks... the bent tin original was never going to win any awards for aesthetics.
The Badass has the same adjustments as the original bridge.
If I were looking at replacing the Badass I would probably go with a 'quick release' type rather than 'string through'.

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[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1361547133' post='1987358']
Can someone explain the science as to why they would change your sound or sustain please?
[/quote]

The materials , weight , density and overall mass can have a very noticable effect on the tone of some basses . A significant part of the tone of a Fender bass comes from the fact that it uses a fairly lightweight stainless steel bridge , which generally gives a brighter sound with more open sounding harmonics in the note . Heavier bridges made of denser materials like brass give a noticibly darker tone on the whole . Bridges definately do influence the overall sound of a bass , to varying degrees .

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[quote name='SteveK' timestamp='1361550771' post='1987423']

If I were looking at replacing the Badass I would probably go with a 'quick release' type rather than 'string through'.
[/quote]

Somewhere else that the Hipshot A style wins. Not cheap. mind you.

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[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1361549393' post='1987406']
The science of sustain is very simple. Any energy transferred from the string to the bridge will reduce the movement of the string. If the bridge moves over the metal plate then this would do it as would any flexing of the plate itself. The standard bent metal bridge of the traditional fender would appear to have several weak design features. The plate itself can be very thin and fairly flexible steel. The grooved roller bridges are mounted on very flimsy grub screws which finger pressure can move easily over the shiny chromed plate. The grooved roller doesn't seem to be the best mount for the string either as it runs through a length of groove rather than pivoting on a knife edge.

Whether this adds up to anything significant compared to the losses in the neck and body I have no idea.
[/quote]

In my experience, no bridge betters the original in any way except being rough on your hand if you happen to play that way. So the design faults, in any meaningful sense, don't exist.
If it's hurting your hand, change it. If it doesn't, don't waste your cash.

PS I'd be willing to bet a large sum that no-one, ever, has ever been able to demonstrate any meaningful 'flexibility' in any fender supplied BBOT.
Unless they used a hammer.

Edited by Telebass
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