
3below
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Everything posted by 3below
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That must be a 'gig' above? I think I remember them, used to do them myself pre-covid-19.
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Came very close to doing the same
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Blue Ric 4001 for many years (late 70s - early 80s) in a celidh band. In the same era an Eko fretless acoustic bass in blues-rock band. I do have an aversion to pointy headstocks though
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Can you post a pic of the Clifton extension. I have a Cifton mini bass and find the extension is a bit on the small side.
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Where did the very nice Ash body (blank?) come from? It is quite a thing
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Ouch Possibly a good furniture restorer if a suitable luthier is not available. Some dings you can take out yourself, others not so. I have fixed some really well, the last one I sorted was not a good result.
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I have a Fender super 60 valve combo, 1x12" open back. Makes great bass tones for recording, obviously can't do any great volume though.
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Never used TB for a purchase so no view, some USA members are on BC. Have imported guitar parts and experienced the duty & VAT effect once. Try this https://www.simplyduty.com/import-calculator/
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Thanks for reply, having many years of web development and systems management I fully understand and appreciate the underlying maintenance issues. Far too easy to implement a trivial fix, forget to document it and get bitten back later. Not that I would ever have done that. Ever...😁😁
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Following a recent post by @Dad3353 concerning the 'Report post' link I actually took notice of the link (a testament to BC civility / mods, I have never felt the need yet). The link has poor contrast and to my mind is not obvious. Slight change to the CSS might be in order?
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Is that a customised bass with the action adjusted to 'a gnat's chuff' and a carefully crafted bridge to enhance the inherent woodiness of the bass? or is it Leo's pickup test bed? We should be told! In seriousness I have owned my 1985 ish SB1 since about 1990, the build quality and tuning stability are outstanding. Then we get to the MFD, think P bass on steroids through to vintage and all points in between. Someone needs Ped's SB1, you will not be disappointed, early G&Ls are hidden bargains at the moment, You also get the smooth headstock which I think is the dog's b*ll*X.
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BF Big One followed by BF Dubster ( MORE bottom end and I use flats) since about 2010 . Both cabs have been great with a range of amps. Current setup is Sansamp Leeds (or sometimes VT Deluxe) > QSC GX7 > BF Dubster. I like plenty of low end, like to get the floor and walls moving in the building Happy BF user here. You have the added advantage of BF one month trial period if you buy new.
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Body wood grain is really good I like it.
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I bought my Fender in 1977, sunburst. Antigua finish came out a little later, at the time I thought the Antigua finish was the dog's boll***, stunning looking, regretted my sunburst but couldn't afford to change. This one is stunning and unlike so many of them, the finish is intact. Quality of my 1977 P bass was 100% spot on.
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Shoreline gold does it for me makes my recent ash 'oil' finished look cheap (but I still like it's beaten look).
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At a school I worked in (and therein lies many a story) I played a battered HB telecaster through a HB transistor combo. Awesome, 95%+ of my USA telecaster and Fender valve combo. Staggering value and sound. Guitarist in previous band incarnation bought a HB tele custom, also really good (in fairness, anything sounded good when he played it).
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Bought some Ergon Grips (bike parts, not bass parts lol) from Alan. Excellent transaction, super communication. Deal with confidence.
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It would be useful to see where the nut / end of fret board is in relation to the crack on the back of the neck. I suspect the cracks are previous truss rod damage. I am sure it will all resolve well in the long run, think about Gibson headstocks that have parted company with the neck and are subsequently repaired .
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Keep going, it is all 'fixable', I would do exactly what you have done, then when glue sets I would superglue (or thin woodglue or epoxy) either a strip of thin veneer or carbon fibre into the channel. Thinness and length dependent on getting truss rod in - not all of the channel will need strengthening.
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We also need to remember in the earlier thread, the concern about getting the bearing point of the rod at the adjuster end away from the thin neck section at the headstock end (i.e. possibly bringing the adjuster further into the headstock than normal), this image gives the idea.