BassBunny

You need to decide if you want it set up in either Series or Parallel, (or even single coil, but can't see the point of that) first. Then we can work out which wires need to be connected together and which then become "hot" and "ground". If you want parallel then connect White and Green together and that is your "Hot". Connect Yellow and Brown together and that is your "Ground".

So you mean the Pot is actual coming loose where it it tightened up to the control plate? It looks like the nut is cross threaded to me and the pot is sitting at an angle. A new nut might cure it. With the nail varnish trick already mentioned.

[quote name='4000' timestamp='1493326020' post='3287574'] Of course you could actually have a back problem; lots of us do. Prolapsed disc, trapped nerve etc? So you may want to look into that.[/quote] Spot On. The pain is a sign that there is a problem. You get the pain to try and prevent you from making it worse.It's the bodies natural defense mechanism.

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1492593908' post='3281416'] Hmm. That headstock still :-/ [/quote] Easily rectified with a detail sander. Not unlike Harldley Bentmans and I reshaped one of those in about 15mins and it looked good.

[quote name='dmccombe7' timestamp='1492953133' post='3284317'] Depends on the YES song. Owner of a Horse and Cart would be OK with them. And you will now be singing those lyrics next time you hear that song Dave [/quote] Bugger, that's 2 songs with lyric changes committed to brain. Whils watching the 2 Funk programs on BBC4, I hadn't realised that Sly and the Family Stone's "Thank You, (for letting me be myself again)", is actually "[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]Thank You (Falettinme Be Mice Elf Agin". [/font]

I've 3 x 5 string bass Collections that all weigh a shade over 7lb. I would imagine the 4 stringers would weigh less.

That's a cracking set list. A good few of those we do. Oh and I'm 68 so NEVER too old to play some new/fresh material. How about: Don't you Worry Child - Swedish House Mafia I'm a Believer - Smash Mouth version Cake By The Ocean - DNCE Stitches - Shaun Mendes

Mine is parallel to the headstock and there is approx 10mm gap.

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1492683924' post='3282250'] This is what I was hoping for... So theoretically, as long as the threads are the right length and the pots are the correct value, I shouldn't have a problem? So, for example, the volume pot thread measures 15mm from the body of the bass to the top (when in situ, haven't had time to take it out) making it about 17mm in total I would guess. And saying A20K on the bottom, I would assume then that as long as the thread is 17mm and the pot is of 20k value and is an Audio Taper Pot, I should be on target? [/quote] That's pretty much it.

There shouldn't be any problem with getting the right pots. The crucial part is the "thread" length as the pots are used to secure the pre-amp into the bass by the look of it.

The Pots you highlight are Dual pots, so totally unsuitable. The only way to find a replacement, unfortunately, is take the pre-amp board out, remove a pot and measure it. All the pots seem the same size, just different values. RS Components stock Bourns pots, which are good and they do an awesome range of sizes. They look reasonably standard PCB mounted ones but things like shaft diameter/length etc will be critical to getting the right fit. This is probably why the guitar tech didn't want to do the job. [color=#26282A]"B" indicates it is a linear taper pot. "A" indicates it is an audio taper pot[/color]

The J-Tone is a simpler, (and cheaper) version of the J-Retro. You get Vol/Bal, (or 2xVols if you want), Bass, Treble and Passive Tone. With the J-Retro you get additional Mid Level and Frequency. If you don't need/want the Mid controls, go for the J-Tone.

Simple an East J-Retro. Just replaces the existing plate with a 3-band active/passive pre-amp. Or another option is an Audere pre-amp. Same deal. I've used both and much prefer the East.

Great band. Their live show at Montreux Jazz Festival is still one of my favourite live performances. it was only watching that gig that I realised John Turnbull from The Blockheads was part of the band.

Mike Walsh, Zoot Bass, has done loads of custom necks for people as well as full builds but I guess it depends on where you live in the country. Mike is Colchester way.

[quote name='6feet7' timestamp='1491426987' post='3273028'] I did look at those but they didn't seem any different to what was already on the bass. I'll have a look more closely [/quote] They are the same design and look the same, (apart from the brass saddles), but are made out of heavier guage steel. You could try a Gotoh if the Wilkinson one doesn't float your boat.

[quote name='6feet7' timestamp='1491423756' post='3272991'] Would sticking something like a hipshot bridge make any difference (apart from looks) to my VM Precision V? Reading up (on t'internet), sustain seems to be improved but not a lot else. I'm perfectly happy with the BBOM but wondered about the opinions of basschatters? Also would changing the saddles to brass on the BBOM make any difference? (I'd rather not spend any extra money if it doesn't really make much of a change). [/quote] I have put a Wilkinson Vintage bridge on mine. A lot more substantial than the BBOT and the Brass Saddles look a lot better. It does seem to make a difference in the sustain department. For just over £20 it was money well spent IMHO.

MU membership only covers the individual so everyone in the band would have to join. We use AMPband and have for a number of years. £10m cover for around £69 and that covers a 5 piece band. £79 for up to 10. https://www.ampband.co.uk/index.php If you decide to use them if you enter our referral number, 61244, we get a bung of some sort.

[quote name='ebenezer' timestamp='1490794785' post='3268068'] Not an easy job as fingerboard needs to be removed in order to install graphite rods either side of truss rod....it is do-able!, but would be costly. The shuker, being a five piece neck has far better stability than a one piece regardless of graphite rods!...in my opinion, leave well alone [/quote] Beat me to it. Probably a new neck would be a better option.

[quote name='kodiakblair' timestamp='1490733319' post='3267563'] No idea what they string them with,if it was D'Addarios there'd be a tag saying so.Dare say you've seen me before, I do turn up in the strangest places [/quote] If it helps, the acoustic basses come with Alice strings, (ie a cheap Chinese product). Only discovered this as my HB acoustic bust a string and I wanted an inexpensive replacement as I don't use it a lot. Bought the Alice ones from Gear4Music and they are the same ones. identical coulered silks etc.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1490696298' post='3267086'] I used something similar but the glue wasn't great and they started sliding off their place, and some came off relatively easily. How 'solid' are these once you stick them? I have a couple of dark fingerboards I'd love to have some larger white-ish side markers on. Right now I just put a spot of tippex on them as a temporary measure [/quote] Same problem with me. I had toyed with the idea of drilling a small hole and putting the stickers in and then drop-filling with clear varnish. This would make them permanent but I don't know if it would have any impact on the ability to charge. Also I guess if you are going to start drilling holes, you may as well install Luminlay.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1490602037' post='3266190'] Interesting. My 1988 SB315 had the usual black plastic jobbie, and I didn't think any major manufacturer ever fitted brass nuts as standard ... maybe Alembic? Perhaps the more upmarket SGC Nanyo 5's had them? [/quote] I've 3 x 5 String Nanyos and all have brass nuts.

[quote name='Grahambythesea' timestamp='1490616053' post='3266417'] I reckon your conversion job would work better starting with the painted model and then getting the vinyl you put on cars printed with your Paisley pattern. That way if it does work you at least have a reasonable black bass you can use/sell. [/quote] That would be my plan. I have a friend who "does" vinyl. All sorts of things including complete guitar wraps.

The majority of people who have a problem with MarkBass Piezo Tweeters just disconnect them, (me included). There is plenty of evidence on BassChat of them causing issues and quite frankly the view is that they don't do anything anyway. I can't tell the difference with or without except the hiss has gone.

[quote name='scrumpymike' timestamp='1490375226' post='3264757'] Agreed! Just Googled and the ones you mentioned only seem to cost between £2 and £3 or am I missing something? They look the same as mine - is there a better, more expensive design? [/quote] Switchcraft are regarded as THE jack socket to use as they are really well made and last without either falling apart or oxidising. The Chinese ones probably cost pence by comparison and just won't last as long without causing problems. There will be inevitable exceptions but that is the general rule of thumb. If you check out any of the postings on here where inexpensive basses are "upgraded", the jack socket is usually the first thing to be changed for a quality item like Switchcraft or Neutrik.