BassBunny

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1483492291' post='3207697'] So what do you reckon? Would more people go and see pub bands if the fare was a little more varied? Or if it was properly promoted? [/quote] I reckon you have hit the nail on the head Phil. I was in a local not long ago that had a band on and I heard a couple of the locals talking and the discussion went something along the lines: " Great band but we heard it all last week and the week before. Why can't bands come up with something different? " The North West pub scene is swamped with "Classic" Rock Bands who all seem to have a similar set list. Punters generally like a bit of variety but until bands provide that and Landlords get away from only putting rock bands on the scene will continue to dwindle. You are also right about the promotion side. Too many people going into the pub game thinking it is easy. It isn't and if you are trying to cover the cost of a band you need to promote, promote, promote. Half the time they can't even be bothered to put the posters up you have provided. There are some cracking music venues in the NW that have been going for years and get it just right.

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1483483649' post='3207655'] The switch most likely just takes the active circuitry out of the signal path, I doubt it does anything to the power. [/quote] That is exactly what I figured. The circuit diagrams I have show that is exactly what happens. [quote name='MoJo' timestamp='1483518653' post='3207748'] I will do, I'm also contemplating putting a multimeter in series with the battery to see if there is any current flow with the switch set in the bypass position, just to satisfy my curiosity [/quote] Current consumption is likely to be pretty minimal Mark. As an example I have a Harley Benton Deko Acoustic Bass and like many other who bought these discovered that the fault with them is that the battery is permanently connected due to an issue with the output board. It takes about 4-6 weeks to drain it and that won't be a particularly upmarket pre-amp. So that's a minimum of 672 hours and even leaving a lead plugged in during a gig would equate to about 4hrs per Gig or 168 gigs.

Difficult to say without seeing a wiring diagram. Ibanez have them on their website but would need the age of the Bass. What year is it? As a footnote I have had a look at the diagrams for 3 of the active basses I own and switching to passive DOES NOT disconnect the battery, so suspect that will be the case with yours Mark.

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1482507319' post='3201170'] BassBunny - Thanks! That means I won't have to buy a seperate back up amp, then?! [/quote] Unless you feel like buying a back up .

[quote name='solo4652' timestamp='1482505088' post='3201138'] Can I check this, please. I have a BDI21 which I've never used. Don't really know why I've got it. Could I use it as an emergency back-up amp in some way, if my main amp goes pop? Our PA uses a powered mixing desk, so would passive bass>BDI21>powered mixing desk>PA speakers get me home safely? Enough amplification for a bass in that chain? [/quote] Perfect Steve. Just run an XLR cable from the BDI21 to an input on the desk and job done. I had an Eden WTDI for just that purpose. The powered mixing desk just means the amp is built into the desk rather than being separate.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1482335373' post='3199686'] Some active preamps, although Audere is the only one I'm aware of, buffer each pickup individually and then blend them like an active mixer. This reduces the interaction effects between the pickups giving you a nice gradual blend between the two rather than what you usually get which is a sharp drop off as soon as you nudge the blend either way off centre. [/quote] East, Noll and Glockenklang do as well as far as I am aware. In fact Noll make an active blend that you can add to a passive instrument and get the best of both worlds.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1482172493' post='3198221'] I really can't see why anybody would buy a wiring loom from ebay You might have a look at my feedback - link below [/quote] Me neither.

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1482152791' post='3198025'] This all comes down to what sort of gigs you are doing. Most pubs/clubs wont bother but if you are predominantly doing functions/weddings/corporate then you'll need to prove you have the cover (not that you'll ever likely need to use it) PAT certs are normally asked for even though its not a legal requirement (try asking for a risk assessment of the power supply you're pluggin into from the venue ;o) n) PLI, I'd say any band worth their salt should be carrying one of these. [/quote] Spot on. My understanding is that with a pub gig, the LL is booking you to play and therefore you are covered by their PLI. With a Wedding/Corporate/Party gig, generally the Bride and Groom or Organiser is booking you and the venue separately so the venue needs to make sure you are covered as their PLI doesn't extend to you in these circumstances.

[quote name='Grahambythesea' timestamp='1481893875' post='3196028'] Thanks Bassbunny, point taken on variations but if a particular model has some lighter ones out there then at least it's worth pursuing. Some are just never light! [/quote] True that. I must admit my first question if in the market for a bass is "How Heavy".

[quote name='Grahambythesea' timestamp='1481886906' post='3195931'] Having got rid of my Fender Jazz 5 string for being too heavy (10lb+) I have wondered whether the Squier P 5 might be a lighter alternative. Do you know what it weighs in at? [/quote] It's like any bass, the weights will vary due to the nature of the wood used. Mine is around 8lbs, but there are heavier ones.

I got a CAR Squier VM after some comments from the Blues Brothers Tribute about the "Duck Dunn" vibe. Must admit I am astonished how good it is. I was preparing myself for some major upgrades but really it doesn't need it. That said I've changed the BBOT bridge to a Wilkinson Vintage one and picked up a mint green pickguard off here. Changed the pots to CTS whilst swapping the pickguard over and also changed the jack to a Switchcraft one, ( that was a necessity in my opinion). Stonking bit of kit and getting plenty of use.

[quote name='GreeneKing' timestamp='1481646826' post='3194009'] I don't think that all MECs are active. Is it possible that they aren't active at all? In that case connecting them to the battery would be a major faux pau. I believe that the active MECs appear to have two wires but the white wire has an inner core (+ve power to pickup) and the outer braided wire is a common ground. I suspect you know this though Although if the OP has connected the red wine to 9v then it would be wrong as that is the pickup output hot wire. Inner white to 9v switched and braided wire ground, inner white is the pickup power not red. Thats as I remember it anyway. Peter [/quote] My thoughts exactly Peter. Not convinced these are actually active MEC's in which case they could be fried.

[quote name='GreeneKing' timestamp='1481643685' post='3193964'] Shame you are in Denmark as I've done a fair bit of this, in fact a whole lot. The jack wiring is the culprit quite often and getting your head around it's switching via the -ve side is important. If struggling start from scratch and work out what is going on with the wiring. [/quote] Problem is Peter that we don't seem to know how the pickups are powered. EMG's are easy there is an additional Red +ve that is used to power them. The MEC's only seem to have a Hot and Ground and I am struggling to see how they are powered up unless there is something unique about the MEC pre-amp.

I know The guy on Finnbass that did the work on the Spector but those are EMG's and it is pretty easy to get diagrams for them. Can you identify which MEC pickups you have? Did you make a note of where the wires wnet with the original pre-amp?

If the red wire from the pickups is indeed a "+ve" supply wire, sending it straight to the battery will mean the pickups are permanently connected and draining the battery all the time. From memory I think it is the "-ve" supply to the pre-amp that is switched.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1480456724' post='3184633'] Are you running Google chrome by any chance. I downloaded AVC and it crashes every time I paste the URL into it. It does seem to suggest it likes Chrome or Firefox. [/quote] I am using Chrome but have used it with Firefox as well.

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1480454249' post='3184599'] There are actually clips from three different sources and I wanted to do them all. Thanks for the tips. [/quote] i noticed that. AVC will do all of them

I use Any video Converter. I've tried the Chrome extension and it didn't work for me. With AVC, which is free [url="http://www.any-video-converter.com/products/for_video_free/"]http://www.any-video-converter.com/products/for_video_free/[/url] you just get the video URL, by right clicking when the video is showing, and paste that URL in AVC and off you go. It actually works with virtually any website, including youTube.

[quote name='Nicko' timestamp='1480419716' post='3184182'] Sorted, although probably only a temporary fix, the jack socket appears to be made of something with the strength of (used) chewing gum [/quote] Correct. I guess this is the issue, you take it back and the jack socket gets changed for the same part already in. As a Squire VM owner I can confirm the jack's are absolute pants. first job I did was change it for a Switchcraft one. Swiftly followed by changing the pots to CTS ones.

Assuming you are talking about the diagram on page 8, (Series/Single Coil), it looks like you need to swap Brown and Yellow over as well. I don't have time to draw it but it looks like from the top of the switch it should be: White - Vol / Bal Brown and Green - Top Contact Yellow - Bottom Contact and to Earth. In "stingray" mode the pickup is wired in a series configuration, hence the need to swap the Brown and Yellow.

I'm with Gary if you are buying some copper tape but I don't see why you need to shield the back of the pickup covers. Conductive paint if by far the easiest route, but as Gary has mentioned, if you are buying some tape, do the whole job with it. The point about about the grounding nut is to have a convenient way of joining all the earth wires together, but you also need a wire from the nut/screw to the earth on the jack. As an example, depending on how the control cavity is routed, you may have to shield each pickup route and the main control area separately. You then need a wire from each of these discreet areas to earth. Wiring them back to a cavity nut/screw is a convenient and neat way of doing it. Then only 1 wire to the jack.

Are you are going to go passive without any controls? First remove/un solder the pickup wires from the Vol control. Un solder the wires from the jack, (i'd make a not of where all the removed wires go in case you want to revert back to active. Then do as verb suggested. It looks like your pickup wire is shielded so the center/hot wire to the tip of the jack and shield to the body. As verb pointed out, a multi meter is your friend to establish which contact is the shield and which is the "ring" or switch contact to turn the pre-amp on. If you want a passive Vol/Tone control then after all the un soldering, remove the pre-amp and controls and Google the diagram for a Fender P Bass and use that.

Nope. The "Combo Head" is a LMII The "Combo Head II" is an LMIII