itu

You want to know the phase, you need a multimeter (oscilloscope, whatever) and a screw driver. Connect the pickup to the MM. Drop the screw driver tip to the pickup and see, which way the DC voltage is going. If it starts to rise to positive side, the wiring is in phase (+ is connected to +). Do several drops (an inch or two is enough) to be sure. Repeat with other pickups.

No. I can understand this very well: my choice is Old Growth Fuzz which certainly isn't your choice. But you can connect any external unit before, or after the PX5, or to the loop, and get the crunch you love.

I do agree, that P&G are quality. But the situation is slightly different. No moving parts, just two contacts. Current plug is feasible in its use. It may also be good though that the plug is a fuse, the breaking part. When the bass top breaks because of the good locking contact, instrument builders should make the instrument such that they could withstand the pulling when someone walks to the cable etc. To the original point, I see nothing special in this so called "new" jack. As @Hellzerosuggested, use a stereo jack if in need.

Please explain. I do not see a problem, but you may have some extra knowledge you have to share. I have had no issues using long scale plus strings in any of my basses. Scales range from 33" to 36". I always cut the excess before restringing a bass.

I have an old Digitech MC2, but you could source after something modern. Source Audio, maybe?

Love the rabbit in the upper left corner. Very high end looking studio you have, sir.

Well, the amp has to be enormous. Or the numbers should have been in mm.

I am pleased to hear that the equipment is up and running. If we just had gigs. Four cancellations during last two weeks...

A real upgrade would be a Status neck. www.status-graphite.com/ On-line store - Graphite necks

Battery powered bass may have a high impedance pickup, or two and the preamp is only the tone unit. Even though the pickups may be battery operated (low-impedance, or "active"), the output can be even lower than with their high impedance ("passive") siblings. But it is true that the impedance difference may affect the effects unit behaviour. I found this out with fuzz/OD/dist and compressor pedals.

It is neither easy nor fast. Well, losing money while doing R&D and prototypes is easy and fast. Keep up the good work and you can make it happen.

Well, the parts of the MIM and USA models are built in Mexico, and the USA model has been put together in USA. I am sorry, quality and Fender are not synonyms in my unabridged dictionary. Suhr et al. is another story.

It is probable that your budget leads you to a decent instrument. If you want a light playing bass, put some less to the actual bass and take it to someone who is able to do a good setup. Try light strings, like 40 - 95; I am using SS RW strings in my fretlesses, too. Flats are really flat to my taste, but if you want to play that Motown stuff, they are functional.

I think that the system excludes strings in the process, so you shouldn't be worried. After getting your instrument back you should restring it with a fresh set.

https://thebassgallery.com/products/music-man-stingray-fretless-1979-ex-pino-palladino £5000 https://thebassgallery.com/search?q=palladino

We need to let go... no, eh, I removed the T, too.

The backside should tell you about the supply. From the link I checked: Mains 100 - 240 VAC. https://www.tcelectronic.com/product.html?modelCode=P0CIU If your amp tells the same, you do not need any converter, just a suitable cable.

VDR = voltage dependent resistor. Used for slow start of the electrical units. It cuts the current peak when the cold unit is started. The white part could be a resistor or rather, a capacitor. You need to check the numbers and codes. Because the unit has failed, it is reasonable to study the surroundings very well and thoroughly. Power failure may be just a part or two, but a DC connected system may die down to the power and preamp. Please consult some tce accredited repair company. Just in case.

You can pair nearly any preamp with your pickups. With East you can not go wrong. I would still fiddle with the original preamp. Be adventurous. As others have already told this, bright comes from a set of SS RW. Nickel gives more middle and flats, well, they sound dead.

You want and you can do whatever you like from Legos! That probably is not the most lightweight instrument around.