itu

This is far too slow... Next steps: hardware. electronics.

Usually every cheapo self build project turns out to be the high budget bass build. And I've been there quite a few times.

Take a look at different pedalboards in the thread. Even looking them may give you hints of what is needed, or should be done. Flat cable plug needs less space than...

Thank you, sir, yes, it is an Xtender. Oh, about measurements: the pickup edge is 3" from D and A string bridges, AND this fretless is 36" (like Overwater C-bass).

That resistor thing depends if you need that boost or not. Consider single/series (for boost) or par/ser switching. You really do not need three options. At least one is not usable. My fretless 4 has only vol and a rotary coil switch.

Similar content, very good.

Your answer is in your link: SPST. Not good. The switch should cut both live and neutral. No shield for liquids, not gigging? Sorry, I still don't get this idea. If the power switch is a must, buy something that is robust, and put some kind of a collar around it to prevent accidental hits.

Steinberger talked about his findings back then (ghost note issues etc.) but I do not find it anywhere. Someone could be brave enough and do some excavation. His comments were very interesting, not only because his background was design and furniture.

I think that flat setting would be helpful when tweaking the amp to a wanted sound. Of course the cab will colour the sound a lot, but the eq will give a good hint on where to go from that. I might take eq knobs away, and put them back to represent flat. (Maybe I have to measure my Soul head. And the Interstellar Overdrive. But measuring cabinets without an anechoic chamber is a chore...)

Yes, you can. But this switch in the picture isn't the most robust choice (not beer resistant, either). The reason for taking the plug from the wall is that there is one less fragile component breaking. If you need a switch at the rehearsal place, I would consider something like this: https://shopdelta.eu/socket-with-switch-mce-13-230-v-3500-w-maclean-energy_l2_p12782.html

Because you are now into old music, you sure need to listen to some of the very special performances recorded. Here's one:

Try Richter's new version of it. Can't say it's perfect, but fun for sure.

@dclaassen had a good one. What kind of old music are interested in? Rameau, Händel are older ones, Wolfgang Amadeus Beethoven et al. somewhere in the middle and guys like Debussy (Prélude á l'Après-midi d'un faune!) and Schönberg represent the later parts in old. I would suggest you to listen to those and find your favourite. Then there are double bass players like Domenico Dragonetti, Giovanni Bottesini, and the much younger Edgar Meyer. I suggest a movie, Tous les matins du monde, which is a story of two gamba players. Remember, gamba is the predecessor of double bass. What was Pino listening to?

Now the two knobs are vol and preset tones. There is one pot and one switch. The switch has maybe six (?) positions and the ROM packs are inserted to a printer serial multipin connector. I have not seen many of these Passions, but played one. The idea was nice but it did not fly. I do not know how many different preamp modules were produced, but they were marked with texts. That semi parametric was the most common option. I think Nautilus system was only put to an Arpege, not to Passion?

I think it would be good to understand basics of the electronics, as well as terms. An "active" (better: low impedance / lo-Z) pickup is somewhat rare. There are only few manufacturers of them like EMG. They have lower amount of winding in the coil and to compensate the level, they have a buffer circuitry built in. The output level is around the same than with a "passive" (better: high impedance / hi-Z) pickup. [I do not go into details, but there are other systems that could be considered truly active, like optical pickups.] One of the most common signal paths of an "active" bass is like this: pickups - blend - vol - tone stack - output Here you can see that usually the only "active" or battery powered part is the tone stack. Actually you have an ordinary bass that has the cheapo tone pot replaced by a battery powered one (check Artec, Sadowsky and alike). Note: a "passive" pickup can have a battery powered tone stack after it. When you find a good instrument that fits you, the modifications are quite easy. You could also consider using an outboard preamp to shape your tone if the instrument feels and sounds good. The unit can be in a pedal format or in some box.

Have an M80 Classic in single and double. A Ray would fit easily, like my fretless 36", and MG Genesis 5 (35").

If it is a linear: https://www.alphapotentiometers.net/html/taper_curves.html A means audio except B means logarithmic depending on the manufacturer. European and American companies use same alphabets - and every now and then different meanings. Standard would be very nice, but we lack a global one.

Looks like it has been used as a speaker cable. Coaxial cables do not usually have enough copper to deliver watts. The plug looks like it would work on a fx board staying still but not in instrument use. Buy Neutrik plugs, some decent silicone cable, and you can rely on your cables for the next decades. If you need cables for speakers, try 2 x 1.5 mm2 or 2 x 2.5 mm2, and decent connectors i.e. Neutrik. Mark speaker cables well, if you still use plugs in stead of Speakons.

I have had two basses with me if there has been a real reason to use two different instruments, like fretted and fretless. Mostly I rely on one. Why? Strings are far more reliable now (I naturally carry a similar set with me), and I carry a tiny toolset. An extra cable is a must, and some less important equipment (like fx) can be bypassed. Practically all my instruments are checked by me. I replace batteries, and write the replacement date to them. Simple and practical.

As you already know, the roundings make the numbers look slightly different from each other. If you took the side markers away and used a capo, the neck could be shortened as much as you like, as long as there are frets or fretboard.

How about vol vol tone tone + rotary pickup switch? With a rotary switch you can have several pickup options under a single knob. I suggest you to use only series + parallel, or series + single coil. Single coil and parallel are so close to each other that you only need the other. If you need a slight boost, then it's single + series. - ser + ser - single + ser - ser + single - single + single Yes, it would be possible to combine different coils from different pickups, but then, do you really think you could get that different or useful sounds? Wiring the system: (pickup - switch - vol - tone) x 2 to output or if you like blend: (pickup - switch - tone) x 2 - blend - volume - output

There was this comment in the original link: "Lead Poisoning Through Inhalation If the solder contains lead, the melting process can release fumes that contain lead contaminants." I checked all links that were included in the text (and some extra, just in case). Not a single had anything related to "fumes that contain lead contaminants" except this Weldingmastermind's. As @Chienmortbb wrote earlier, Pb is boiling at 1750 °C. Fumes are from burning resin or rosin. Not healthy, but not tin nor lead nor silver. But handling may cause the solder to reach your body. Sweaty, slightly acidic hands do love different chemicals. I hate many greases and oils because they travel through the skin to circulation, i.e. everywhere to the body - and gloves are not always an option. I was working with electronics earlier. Lead was not an issue, otherwise there would have been tests. But those involved with radioactive materials had to go through various tests few times a year.

Rosin and resin burn, yes, but you get the same stuff from lead free solder, too.

OK, then any company that makes lightweight instruments is possible. MG Revolite, Sandberg... And there was an interesting story here about one late bassist, whose Overwater was heavily modified by the luthier himself. Check it out.

The basics: If this is a live setup, an extra mixer will not ruin your sound, if the signal levels are reasonable. Another take: If you are able to open your mouth and explain the person behind the big board, that this is your sound and what you want from it, you are on a right path. Then you can reduce the output system to an ABY pedal and a DI box (I am assuming you use only one instrument at the time). By the way, if you do not know what is an ABY, I have included a picture of one: