itu

Try this: http://web.daddario.com/StringTensionPro/ Take a look at the string tension and vary thickness. You may be using another brand, but this should give you a ballpark. This is slightly older but is a good paper to have at hand: https://www.daddario.com/globalassets/pdfs/accessories/tension_chart_13934.pdf

I do partly agree. 1) Out-of-phase is one really serious issue when two signals are in the same frequency band (like signal + effected signal). 2) It is not that bad when they are separated (like bi-amp or X-over). This issue exists but it does not have to be so crucial. If you hear it, you have to act. If not, let it be. A system that can measure phasing is rare. I have used them earlier in my work (broadcasting company), but not with a bass system. I can only rely on my ears. Or I could use my two channel 'scope.

I have done some trials with several delays (through headphones only). No, it does not sound like a double bass but it really sounds different. I have tried short delays (1 - 6 ms = 30 - 180 cm) and mixed them with different feedbacks and levels. Tests continue...

True. I did not find that the most crucial thing when setting up my equipment. I still do not. But the effects do sing!

You want two channels, not bi-amp? Keep the low end intact and put effects to the high side. This is a tried and true option. Two sets of amps and cabs equals good abs, I certainly would opt for a bi-amp system. You talk to a cab builder (barefaced etc.) and you could have everything in a single box. I am using IE Divaricator in my FX board to mix fuzz to the high side. This is kind of cheapish solution compared to a true bi-amp system but seems to work very well.

The first picture: a three way X-over. 2nd: relays. 3rd: a woofer X-over (LPF, or rather a hi-cut) 4th & 5th: a power transformer. edit: Sorry, my small phone missed the 3rd picture.

A good quality cables do not have to cost much. I do like Neutrik connectors, especially if they are for hard use. Hard use equals the way bassists use them. Likewise I prefer silicone cables. I do build my own and the first has been in use since late 80's or early 90's. For pedal board the angled plugs can be less robust, because they do not move. Short cables can have pretty high capacitance, but longer lines (+3 m) should be low capacitance if the high end response should be preserved. By the way, do you already have this: https://www.thecablecooker.com/

I do have to say that I like that floor and how it looks!

IE Divaricator (not an effect per se, but has revolutionized my use of effects) tce SCF FI OnkartGromt Funky Fellow

Usually the strips are separate, as you may want to chain them and use a suitable power supply. Practically any 12 V supply is functional. @bertbass has a good point, probably most households have few spares.

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Inspired-LED/12V-NB-GR-01M?qs=YCa%2FAAYMW01qkTpyKP021w%3D%3D Something like this? 12 volts.

What kind of power supply are you considering? LEDs can be bought in stripes which you can tape to the grille. If you think the tape is too weak (especially in the long run), some extra adhesive is in order. They consume quite little, so a rechargeable battery or some small power supply could do the powering. You want colours? Consider remote controlled RGB stripes. Mouser etc.

Although the bass is relatively new, I could call this a kustom. Well done, is the neck from Ibanez?

The third pot is feasible only if you use a Bourns 250 k MN and blend the coils with it.

This may be useless too, but this was my impression on... Molded Elacin plugs were pretty comfortable. They were also quite easy to clean. But the frequency response was so bass heavy, that I lost control of all other players. After a couple of years they became useless in other circumstances, too. I could say they were expensive, but the most irritating issue was the response. I am happy with the cheapo Xmas trees if I happen to need them. All in all, a suitable set required some testing. I am happy with those I have now (from that German T-shop) and the money spent to few examples was reasonable.

The ear canal changes continuously through the life of a person. Molded earplugs should be renewed approximately every 5 years. I have those simple Xmas trees, but our band has decided that volume wars are over. It is better to not need any protection. Less is more.

Sure, and it is a real pity we have no chance to meet these players face to face. No more Teams, Mural, Meet, Hangouts, Zoom, Insta, YT, or anything else from any screen! I want to see the real musicians on a physical stage. Me want to go to a gig, too.

Live from the bedroom? True, this seems to be the thing today - no "jitter" or tiny faults. No false notes or rhythmic issues. But I want my live out there in the stages without extreme post processing. Raw, full dialogue between band members. He plays well, no doubt. But I doubt, too, this has very little to do with live. This is a recording in a bedroom studio.

MM and P have the same width, and J is like J. Profile is thicker than Modulus (or Ibanez), but not that round like Steinberger.

To remove wire wool and other metallic debris, use tape! Simple & effective. But I still wouldn't use steel wool anywhere near my basses. It is also possible to remove the metallic dirt by demagnetizing pickups, but...

If this was a real issue, there would be a system that puts the bass electronics to sleep. Just like your phone turns the display off to save energy. A similar system would be possible but needs quite a few components and someone to design it. Not an impossible task at all, but the need seems to be limited (referring to the previous posts). I think a modern solution would be based on an acceleration sensor and a few components around it. This also consumes some energy if the wire was connected. Every microamp counts. And a more complicated system usually equals even more complicated problems. I might not put together some cheapo pots and modern sensors. My choice is still disconnecting the cable.