itu

If you are sensitive to the material, a slight help may be the change to stainless steel (which also contains nickel, by the way). If you like light, try 40-95.

Exactly, and the mass means here a lot from physical point of view. Every shape has its resonance and nodes, and by changing the bridge you are tuning it with mass. You can make a simple test with a rod. Hit it and find its nodes. Put any mass anywhere to it and the situation changes. We did this in acoustic lectures, and I have analyzed some baseball bats in my work something like 15 years ago. Neck acts a bit like a rod, because it has (only) one end connected to a big mass (the bass body), but is far different from a string which is connected from both ends. Edit: I forgot to mention, that if the saddles move from side to side, your system is not stiff, and you will certainly loose something from the response. I have a Hipshot (?) bridge in my Genesis. Its really loose, and I had to insert metal sheets to stop the wobbling. I actually felt it in my fingers, and because of that found the issue.

I think you are referring to stiffness of the contact. If it's loose, you'll lose the string vibration to deformations. If your screws are tight, there's no difference between the bridges. But another thing is the mass. As the plate is light and the individual bridges are heavier, the tuning of the body changes, and you may hear the slight difference. Or not. Tuning of the body or the neck changes when the shape or the weight changes. The nodes may be in the same place (uniformal mass change), or move (some end of the shape changes). This means that a different neck may sound quite different. Don't get fooled by other changes you hear after the modification. New strings and clean instrument always sounds better...

Someone please, we need good news. Any news would be good, but hoping for the best.

Bourns makes MN-type blend in 250k and 500k. I have no info whether this is available with a switch. Could you use a tone with a switch? They are far more common.

That PanAm blue colour gives a hint... how about a simple Flight?

Many times. If you can open the cover, you can try to turn/bend the turning part and clean the track, but the easiest way is to change the pot to a new one.

(I didn't want to be exact and use degrees, just giving easy piano examples with simple numbers. But an excellent correction you have there.)

You'll need to wait, because the crazy luthier wants to reveal the complete instrument after a few weeks.

alusonic is also using Al in their bass bodies and cabs. Kramer, Travis Bean... but 1000 cans and three months, this guy is really fun!

Aluminium is only good for light metal. Maybe... Babymetal? By the way, they are touring this spring. No I am not fan, but a friend of mine is.

You may add signals in odd phases which may result in dropped frequencies and levels. Phase + out of phase = 0 20 + (-20) = 0 It may also happen that only some parts of the signal is lost: 20 + (-7) = 13 I suppose you do not have a two chanel (#5) oscilloscope? It would be easy to see possible phase errors.

6082 was not the most suitable material for string holder... now I am working with Alumec.

A tool for practising: you get instant feedback while listening your playing.

Sparkle Drive Old growth fuzz

Tuner goes first only IF: 1) the bass is lo-Z ("active"), or 2) fuzz/dist/OD does not change its behaviour with lo- and hi-Z signals, or 3) the tuner is true bypass. If the first and the second are true, it's up yours where the tuner is. Any buffers in between the bass and the effect may affect the behaviour of the effect. Same may apply to compressors, too. Trial is your best friend.

I would consider it before or after Hyper Luminal. Choose the placement according to your ears.

5 A x 230 VAC = 1150 W 10 A x 230 VAC = 2300 W My choice would be 3 x 1.5 mm2 for few other reasons. 1) the cable can transfer the needed power to amps with reasonable headroom 2) when the cable gets older, some of the copper will be cut, and the upper limit will be lower 3) slightly thicker cable can withstand abuse better

So you have two options: pickups - (s/p -) vol - vol - tone - output pickups - (s/p -) blend - vol - tone - output When you add the s/p-switch to this, you just need to skip the pot not used. The switch has to have enough poles to make it happen.

My Vigier Passion II could have a twin sister with 5-strings, and a graphite neck with 19 mm string spacing, but because two out of these three specs are already non-existent, I can only dream of such a bass. (No 5-string graphite neck, no wide neck 5-strings.)

Thanks! And no worries, I still have quite a lot of work left. Bridge parts are practically done, but I am wondering whether to do a floating bridge (a shape and strings would hold it in place), or use screws.

What do you mean by this, can you open this up a bit?

That's the very tool you need for balanced tension, and odd tunings including (but not limited to*) very low, tenor, piccolo, and tuning in fifths. * Sounds like text from a bank or an insurance company.

Tension depends on strings and strings only if the scale length and the action are the same. If you try the same set of say 40-100 on a headed or headless bass, the tension is equal. If the tension changes, your tuning has changed. There can be substantial difference in tension in the same diameter string depending on the core and winding. This is up to manufacturers and their specs. Not every G-string is the same. (...and where's my coat...)