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Sessionette 100 (15" combo) GK 200MB (12" 100 W second gen combo) Peavey Databass (15" 450 W combo) Glockenklang Soul (2x10" 450 W combo) Soul head from the combo and alusonic 2x12" cab GK had excellent sound. Soul combo has top sound too, but weighs a metric ton. I separated the head from the combo to a rack case and bought the alusonic. Easier to carry.

A PA cab, a powered speaker without the preamp of a bass amp. It still may have a simple eq, or some adjustments, like gain. Full range means wider response than of a bass combo. Flat response should mean flat, but I say that it is still far from hifi.

Really... we are talking about few decibels... if the 4 ohm version is much more sensitive, I'd buy that. Otherwise not. Sometimes an 8 ohm impedance speaker may be louder than a 4 ohm counterpart.

Ser/par? Then there's a good chance to have switches at hand which do nothing. That was the reason I suggested a rotary switch.

A g-word type of approach might work, too: the 5 pos switch, maybe?

What? There are only very, very few preamps for two pickups only. Most of the preamps are after simple blend and vol, or vol and vol. In a three pickup version you could have three volumes. If you want to put an active tone stack after every pickup, you just need more space. It seems that you have not checked my simple drawings of the bass signal path, once more: pickups - blend (or vol) - vol - tone stack - output In your case you just exclude the blend and put in there three volumes. The tone stack is up to you: a battery operated preamp, or a capacitor based, simple passive tone x 1 - 3.

Which screws? Machine, wood? For machine screws nearly any oil is better than no oil at all. The only exception is if you need thread lock (nail lacquer for soft, thread lock for hard). Thicker oils and greases tend to stick better in threads.

The first sentence should point out that the difference in dBs is minimal. So many watts, so little decibels. The second comment is feasible. Usually if your main cab is 8 ohms or more, another cab is a potential possibility for more loudness.

I have written a few times about signal path. Please find it if in need. The system that consists of many switches and maybe even ser/par option might be usable, if you make it happen with a rotary switch. Otherwise there will be many options, where the sound is off, or switches are excluded from the line. That would mean that you'd need to learn to walk in the switch jungle. I would start from feasible sounds: what is functional, what is not. After the options are charted, someone familiar with electronics finds the parts you need and puts them together. Otherwise there will be non-usable situations, and you may cut the sound in a band context just by accident.

Torx or Assy. Or a slightly filed hex.

Relative things: take a look at the price of a recorder, then find the price of a top end cello bow.

But... the picture of the whole bass?

Pickups are designed with some output in mind. If you want a buffer and some tone tweaking with the little help of a battery, it is up to you. True, EMGs need the battery because the buffer circuitry is molded beside the coil(s), but the pickup output can be doped with nearly any preamp. Find your favourite or leave everything out, it is up to your preference.

Start with a pic of your creation. Maybe two... What are your tools, have you burnt the vol pot? Is it log taper?

It has a body of a short scale, and ergonomics of a long scale. First position looks like hard to reach.

The basic idea is simple: you have two necks with similar screw holes and you make a change. That's it. Along came tolerances. It may be so that you need to shim the other neck to get the angle right. This is simple. Few plastic sheets, sized 1 cm x 4 cm x 1-2 mm or so. Neck pocket may be loose or tight. Your choice: the pocket or the neck heel needs some sanding. If the screw holes do not fit, consider using DIN 7965 slotted inserts after filling the holes of the neck, and drilling new ones that fit. The slotted end goes in first: Sure you have to change strings and check the fine tuning and string height, but that takes less than half an hour. You need a tuner and few tools.

Ain't no mountain I wish Disco inferno Get lucky (our space version) A night in Tunisia Moanin'/So what mixmash All the things you are (check Peruchin's version!) confession: I like playing Love boat theme

Axstar, BX1, Hondo/Kramer, Warwick's headless (and the name was Nobby Meidel?), Rail bass, Riverhead... are these all from the 80's?

I think that the dirty electricity is the reason I have to vacuum weekly! Maybe my cats are producing that dirty electricity by wandering round my flat? But as the heading was about gilt OFC cables, I need to remind you all, ladies and genitals, about the must-have Cable Cooker: www.thecablecooker.com/

1) you can use a 1 or 2 battery solution. You could consider a parallel 9 V solution for longer operation. 2) whichever blend pot (with MN taper) should work. Some may be more or less aggressive, so some trial is in need. Try Bourns 250k MN. 3) grounding, well EMGs do not require bridge grounding. Others are needed.

I have to say that the 400+ was wonderful! The weight wasn't. A Mo'Bass or a MiniMo are high on my list but also pretty rare, that is high priced. Maybe some day.

- Auerswald (any) - Pensa-Suhr (another) - Rickenbacker 4005 - basslab - Linc Luthier - Ritter (acoustic) - Versoul Swan 4 or 5 (acoustic) - Overwater C - any old 5/4 sized high end double bass, 5 or 4 with an extender - something decent with a Lightwave pickup

Interstellar Overdrive. Pre: 12AX7 / ECC83 (C+C = double triode) Power: 2 x EL84 (around 5 W; eq not working with the internal power amp) Schema stolen from TB.

Well, maybe it was a pint and some youtube video, but anyway.