itu

[Pretty long time ago] "I hate that wooden box on top of my piano" (which I sold to get my Quantum 5 SPi). I learned to play in time playing with LPs, CCs, and CDs. And radio, too. It was more fun and natural.

Those filters are of great interest. Keep us updated.

A (very) little bit of reverb makes good for distorted (and fuzzistored?) sound. For me a little bit works fine (listen to Duffy's Mercy), and anything more is already a special effect. My favourite unit is IE Nimbus, because of its filters.

Your (feasible) options are ser/par, or ser/single. The latter has bigger difference in volume. If you use pots with switches, you do not need extra holes.

What do you mean by active pickups? Are they battery powered (EMG or similar), or do you have a battery powered preamp (tone stack) in the bass? I think the answer is the latter. You want vol-blend-tone, or vol-vol-tone, modification is possible and pretty simple. It is up to you to decide, if you want the flexibility and complexity of the battery powered part.

36", oil finish, unlined fretless, glow-in-the-dark side dots, Delano, SS RW 40-100 set, light in weight... second from left.

The standard? A P bass is so simple and cheap to manufacture, that a moving pickup would throw the costs to another level. Besides there are many users happy with its sound. As you have already seen, there's no standard with pickup positions, even the basic P is available with reverse pickup. Rick Turner made basses with turning pickups.

Oh dear, I can see the headlights going towards woods. The woods of Tone...

How about a moving pickup? - one of the first Alembics (Jefferson Airplane and...) - Gibson Grabber - Westone Rail - Spalt vViper Then you have all possible options available. Problem solved.

The cheapest option is to buy good ones in the first place. Keep the length under 10 ft / 3 m. They are easy to coil and keep in good shape for years to come. Just like @BigRedX said, Neutriks and silicone cable. I still have my first self made cable up and running. Made in the late 80's or early 90's. Do the maths: yearly cost is minimal. Try Thomann.de.

Was it Larrivee (Eloustic?) that made hollow body basses in the 80's or 90's? There were no openings, but the body was really light. Maybe made from glass fibre?

I won't tell you. You don't know, you cannot torture me.

Not everybody is the same, but... It is nice to buy a pedal and expect to get an instant super sound from it, while it should be tested thoroughly. Yes, you can turn every knob to 11, but have you ever done it? Learning curve can be very steep even with simple units.

I have tried a few, and my holy grail was a X-over. With it I can keep the lows clean, and distort (or flange, or...) everything from 400 Hz upwards. Four hundred suits me, your choice may be something else. Even pretty bad OD/dist/fuzzes sound decent, when they do not mush the lower register. I think Rolls has a cheap unit for trials.

I wouldn't be surprised that the tones are also 500k. Besides if the originals were 250k, you may get a hint of highest end with them. A = audio = log pot B = linear Except these may be the other way around, as there's no standard with naming, and conventions vary a lot.

As said, use the MN type pot. Ordinary log/audio, or linear taper starts at the other end and stops in the other. In blend tapers start from the center detent (or middle). Therefore you get 100 % in the middle. Note: This is a hi-Z circuitry! Battery powered mixers (or active blends like Noll Mixpot) may have very different way of working and shouldn't be compared directly without deeper knowledge of the functions.

That"s one of the coolest instruments I've seen in a long time!

My experience has been that a burnt breaker is very rare. Maybe two, three times, but then the electricity has been questionable. I have played maybe +1500 gigs and far more rehearsals. Of course any suspect unit can kill a breaker, but that usually happens in a soundcheck. At the moment I play in a band with 2 x JBL PRX735 (1.5 kW/side) after a U24i, a tube g-amp (12 or 50 W), piano, a Glockenklang Soul (450 W). On top of that, half a dozen LEDs. A quick calculation gives +3500 W (full power including LEDs), and that is around 16 A. But there's no need to drive the set so loud. The max RMS power taken from the line is probably closer to 20 % of the max = 2 - 4 A. I think this should be measured some time...

...and the pot has to be a Bourns MN 250k or MN 500k. MN has balance tapers.

How about blue suede shoes? Would that make a difference?

Not so, because aluminium is so light in weight, it works only for metallic (a paint or similar). For medium metal it should be steel. Lead is illegal, so heavy substances are mostly gone.