It may well be after 20 or so years playing. Good acoustic instruments improve with age. I have a 1975 Martin D35 that is very well played in and its a remarkable instrument.
I've moved in the opposite direction. Played the fiddle for may years (still do), but these days I get more satisfaction out of creating the harmonic and rhythmic foundation of a piece of music than from playing melody/solo lines over the top of it.
This. And go to a few decent shops and try stuff out (Bass Direct an obvious choice because they stock so much of the higher end makes and you can compare to your heart's content - provided you go in the week when they're not busy - which is what I did when I upgraded last year). The Market Place is stuffed with high end kit because people bought it on the basis of recommendation/reputation alone and found it wasn't what they wanted.
For a better quality small format mixer, have a look at the Mackie VLZ range. This is the smallest - https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Mackie-402-VLZ4-4-Channel-Analog-Compact-Mixer/UVQ. Much better mic preamps than most small/inexpensive mixers and well built.
Sensible words from Dangoose. If we want compact, light, powerful amps, we have to accept the design trade offs, which include the fact that a way has to be found to keep them from overheating. If we don't want large heatsinks, that means a fan.
Peavey PV1500 is indeed a power amp, so will need line level (at least .775mv) to drive it adequately. A bass without a preamp will not provide that and neither will most pedals.
Why doesn't he want to sell? Just because he won't do what you want? Perhaps he's just wary. Selling music gear is a minefield. I usually insist on collection by the buyer unless I receive cash from the person who collects. Try offering him that and see.
East make an excellent product, but I felt the J Retro I fitted to my J bass, whilst being super clean and having more of everything than the passive set-up, robbed the instrument of some of its essential character. In the end, I sold it and went back to passive. I'd certainly agree with others above who recommend trying different pickups first before changing the pre'.
Take your head to a well-stocked shop and try it with a few cabs. Don't listen to us. We'll all recommend what we like and there's no guarantee you'll feel the same.
Bill's correct as usual. Just disconnect the tweeter. Once you're used to the lack of ticking and clattering, fret rattle and general nastiness in your sound, you'll be much happier
I like the look of those and don't care what they look like. If a drink goes over and gets sucked into the electronics of my Fohhn powered subs by the fans, replacement cost is about that of a decent second hand car.
The headphone out will most likely be stereo and at more than line level, so you could use it but be cautious. You'll need to mono the signal (use a stereo to mono lead) and either use some kind of attenuator - a passive DI box with variable resistors on board ought to do it, for example - or run the output from the headphone socket into the active input of the higher powered amp if it has one. Start with the volume at minimum on the amp you're feeding and increase with caution.