three

I too find the advice on the Newtone site a little confusing. There are many others on here that will have a far better idea (and probably more professional approach than my own), though generally when using Newtone strings, which I do quite a lot, I do the following: 1. secure the ball end at the bridge/saddle 2. stretch the string along the length of board to the tuner post and pull reasonably tight 3. measure the string to around 3 or 4 inches beyond the post 4. using pliers, make a right angle/90 degree bend (at around the 3 or 4 inch point) 5. cut the string at about 1/2" to 3/4" beyond the bend 6. slot the string into the hole in the bass of the post and then carefully wind to pitch As far as I know, it's always important to make the right angle bend in the string before making any cuts - this seems to be particularly important with strings that are wound onto a round core (Newtone make this point). If you're using round core strings, extra care is required (I tend to use round cores quite frequently and only had one problem with a dull E that I think was caused by a slipped wrap). As above, I'm sure others will have better advice, though the method described has served me well (on many tens if not hundreds of string changes)

Holland and Barrett is doing buy one get one half price on organic lemon oil (the kind of thing that's used in aromatherapy) - it's highly purified: there's a link here: https://www.hollandandbarrett.com/shop/product/tisserand-lemon-organic-pure-essential-oil-9ml-60039857 I have a couple of bottles and have been very pleased with the results on an ebony board. I also use isopropyl alcohol or surgical spirit (approx 90% ethanol) for nasty stickiness!

I used one for around 12 months but found it was only really useful (for me) on passive basses - especially Fender types. Again, for me, the Noble is sort of a one trick pony, though it's a good trick. Kind of a nice 'produced' and quite glossy tone out of the box. The eq was ok but I prefer greater control over mids. The form factor is great and the unit is undeniably well-built and robust. The Monique is much more versatile in the world of bass valve pres/DI and I find it much more useful for active basses (though again, I think it tends to work better with passives). That said, my Monique is currently for sale and it's likely that I'll return to just using high-end SS pres. For the OP, if you can find a Noble at a decent price, possibly worth a try, especially if you're looking for a solid vintage passive tone

I could be talking through my backside (again) but I think there's an argument that the Alembic bridge assembly is designed to isolate the strings as far as possible - and the sustain of Alembics is pretty legendary. There's also a lot of clarity and ping with each note (depending on how the bass is set-up, of course). That said, there's also a lot of discussion on the Alembic site with respect to the impact on tone of the various woods that are used in the basses (especially the top and back laminates). If there is a higher degree of string isolation given the design of the bridge, I'm not really sure how the timbers would impact on tone - then again, I don't really care, Alembics sound splendid to me (and to repeat, I could be talking rubbish).

I'm certainly in cetera area - all sort of modular. Two amps (GSS Sumo, extremely light and Agi DB750, extremely heavy), Berg 210, Agi 112 and loads of preamps including Hellborg, Alembic SF2, Monique, Trace, Millennia etc. All pretty ridiculous (but fun) as I started with DI into the PA about 35 years ago and have tried to stick with that wherever possible since. One box/case solution.

Absolutely joyous! Thanks for the link

I have but not those that are listed on the site. Indeed, I wasn't aware that Newtone was supplying short and medium strings - thanks for highlighting. I ordered several sets of custom short-scale strings in super-light gauge - 30-90. I've been very impressed so far. I normally use nickel but the Newtones are SS (a deliberate order). Very well constructed, lively and bright. Nice feel too. They're on hex cores so no floppiness, though compliance is excellent. I'd recommend the company overall but Newtone's standard short-scale options are too heavy for me

I had the great pleasure of playing with the great man's brother (an excellent keys player and all-round lovely bloke). I can partially confirm the erotic literature collection - there was some of it in a studio in Derbyshire - this was many years ago. I'd also been told that the brothers had a fairly unorthodox upbringing. John was a true pioneer and without him, the UK music scene might have looked rather different

In terms of bass cab aesthetics, these have to be near the top of the pile for me. Outstanding looking cabs and the specs visible on the site look good (though useful to have more specs and a little less hyperbole). Very expensive but construction and components (from what we can see) appear impressive. For anyone with an interest, the link is here: https://www.unicornbass.se/amplification/ I'm very happy with my current cabs (Berg and Agi) but I'd be seriously interested in testing the Unicorn range - or even one from among the range, though I doubt we'll see too many make it over to the UK

I use the Hot Wires double ball ended strings for my Status - extremely light gauge. I find them to be reasonably cheap (especially on bulk orders) and high-quality. I haven't had any delays with shipping but I've had quite a good stock for some time now. I'd recommend Hot Wires on the basis of experience but haven't ordered any for a while (and use Newtone custom super-light sets for my short-scales)

Wow, 2x18s and 2x10s? A thing of wonder - I'd have gigged this back in the '80s (and used to wander around with massive 18" reflex bins). For anybody interested in this kind of vintage esoterica, there's a review here: https://www.muzines.co.uk/articles/peavey-max-bass-amp-and-3620-cab/5135 To the OP, enjoy this - what a fabulous, monster rig - one of these is nuts by contemporary standard, two is off-the-scale On topic, I'd agree that a Y-cable should work fine (or find a preamp with two outputs, for example, a Warwick Hellborg)