Dood

I think that is partly down to the unfortunate problem we have with the cost of shipping, excise and VAT. It ends up being cheaper to use homegrown in the shape of Newtone Strings.

Sounds like a good plan! I haven't looked, but certainly I was able to buy some XLR Right angled jacks made by Neutrik that could be configured for exit direction. Hopefully they do the same for DIN connectors too!

You could ask FlightCase Warehouse to build to your exact specification of course. They do have that facility. Or, if you like to create on your own terms, then have a look at Thomann's Live Case Builder (or named something similar) where a graphical interface will allow you to see what the final design will look like with your choice of hardware. A bit more expensive but not the most expensive cases I have seen. I found that actually I needed the 44cm depth because I mounted a 4 way power adaptor on the back of the board permanently so that I could leave LT plugged in as well as some USB power adaptors, rather than having to unplug those every gig. Also, with the added depth it meant that straight instrument cables were not hanging off the back of the board to get stood on. (My board lived inside the flight case all the time.) To lift the board out of my flight case, well, the FCW boards actually have a cutaway on one corner meaning that you can get your hand underneath to lift it out. However, I did leave about 2cm between the edge of my LT and the board perimeter to help with getting it in and out. I also bought some of those really thick stick on foam/rubber feet usually for house furniture to put on the bottom of my board. It did lift the board up so LT was more level with the lip of the FCW case, but mainly to make it sit on the floor more evenly and not get too messed up underneath when playing on uneven surfaces.

Yes indeed it really is just a cheap Peli! - It does have a rubber seal but I would say this case is splash proof rather than airtight so I wouldn't foresee too many problems.. I wasn't expecting it to be great for the money, it was more bash protection I was after so I am actually really impressed. Yes, I have two different sizes of case from @64 Audio. They are still housing my IEMs. I actually prefer using the larger case at the moment - but they always end up in my flight case anyway so the size of the Peli isn't a problem. What I was actually after was a little pouch to hang around my neck on a lanyard for my Ear Plugs. The ones from various IEM providers including 64 don't have a hanging loop. Whilst I was searching I found this little "Peli" which is not only solid but does have a really good loop to attach it to well, anything. This little box is much, much smaller. it's width is just 8cm odd, hence why I'd mentioned that you might squeeze some IEMs in there but earplugs, no problem! I think the next step for lanyard style holders (temporary storage) would be to talk to our own 3D printing genius @intime-nick ... Now that could unleash all sorts of geekiness! I basically want Nick to build everything I can think of ha ha!

That's interesting, as I've found that IEMs and big cans do a great job of left to right spacial awareness but really don't seem to have any height or front to back translation. My IEMs and my DT770's fail to get the full effect. However (and I don't have them anymore) a set of earphones that sit actually on your Pinna flat provided the best 3D spacial experience. I think they were a set of Sony monitoring earphones and not particularly expensive ones. The effect is further enhanced if the recording device's microphones are in an ear canal rather than just in the vicinity of the ear too. Ideally the Pinna should be as close to the same shape on both source and destination but hey, that's pretty impossible unless you're listening to your own recordings ha ha!!

I absolutely must listen to these as I LOVE binaural - anything that fools our senses I find exciting. Even sleight of hand tricks have me laughing at how easy it is to confuse!

Just adding to the pile of accessories, I (probably over spent) and bought one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Compressive-Earphone-Case-for-High-Fidelity-in-IEMs-earbuds-earphone/381663300456?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=650732655007&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 to put my sets of ear plugs in. It has just arrived now and I have to say I'm really pleased with the quality. Really strong and a padded interior. There's room in there for IEMs with a short cable.

I used the FlightCase Warehouse XL sized case. It fitted in the case perfectly and the board lifted out. The XL was large enough to mount a couple of pedals and a power strip on too: https://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/industry/product.asp?item=spider-guitar-effects-pedal-board-flight-case-extra-large-7628-4748 There's an XXL and a Medium size board should yo need larger or smaller. Great prices and built like a tank. However, my LT is still mounted to a board but I had RoqSolid make me a super tough padded carry bag instead due to the amount of venues I have to climb stairs lol..

Do you mean EMG HZ pickups? (They are passive, so if you are using a battery, I am expecting you are operating with a different model that requires a battery) I am assuming the bass has no other preamp on board? Have you rechecked your solder joints? Is the battery flat? WAIT, edit.. so you haven't soldered the wires properly? I should do that first! The vibrations of the instrument either playing or in transit could be enough to mess with the physical (albeit loose) connection.

You suspect correctly!

You can either just buy a normal chain off of eBay and a chain splitting tool, thus giving you loads and loads of pieces. Or you can be really lazy and buy the 8’s off of eBay for a disgusting mark up, like I did! Doh!

My method I've used is in no way as remotely as cool as Nick's awesome 3D printing (which just has me amazed!) - I've used the 'Bicycle Chain Method' - Which should be easy to find on YouTube - but essentially, you can get the figure of 8 segments from bike chains and do the same as Nick as above.

I see no reason why you couldn't do something similar!

The only way I could have gotten faster and clearer updates is if I were sat on JPJ's lap whilst he was typing! As always, a great BCer that can be relied on. Cheers Kev!

It just looks so tidy! Brilliant on stage and so easy to pack and go!

Yes, I would say accurate; I did find that when I demo'd the @64 Audio U8 and then received my V8, at least as far as my memory goes, the V8 sounded better than I was expecting. I think I put this down to the fact that universals never fit my ear canals properly. The U8 was a great experience when comparing against many of the competitors in my available price bracket. I knew the V8 was going to be good, but I was really pleased when the V8 arrived.. which didn't stop me upgrading. (Thanks to the upgrade scheme) I really love my A8's!!

You may #Repost anything on my own Instagram https://www.instagram.com/DanVeallBassist Just tag me in the post. There's always loads of bass related stuff there which could be of interest. I'll post a few high res pictures / posts here later.

This diagram assumes that the controls are mounted on a conductive foil strip stuck to the back of the pick guard:

Hi! I'm going to assume that the coloured wire is considered 'hot'. Ok, referring to left coil and right coil as pictured (they are going to be both the same so not really important UNLESS the pole pieces on the front side of the pickup halves are different heights. Which I am assuming they are not) Take left hand coil and solder the black wire to the coloured wire of right side coil. That is all you need to do for the pickups, save for wrapping some tape around those bare solder joints. You will then have a free coloured end and a free black end. Coloured will be hot, the other, well, self explanatory. The back you'll be able to solder to ground, the coloured will go to the 'hot' on the volume pot. Now, given which way you are holding the pot or what diagram you are looking at my description could get confusing so I will see if I can find a diagram for you!

It has been a while since I visited this thread but I’m glad I did! Some really nice pieces being handmade! i wish I had the spare time to do some of my own! Right now, I’m just tracking down a predrilled box to put a preamp in. That will be as far as my DIY goes for the immediate future. I have tons of things I want to get on my old breadboard though!!

It's a pleasure to be able to help my fellow bassists, especially when it means saving money but also keeping our favourite machines 'alive'! For some reason I want to own a WT550 again.. I don't even need one ha ha!