Dood

Hi Paul, well I can safely say that I've b*ggered about with far too many pieces of rack gear for my own good, but the best and cleanest sounding of them all without piles of rubbish guitar orientated effects is definitely by TC Electronics. I've owned both the G Force and the GMajor 2 and recommend them both whole heartedly. Even their pedals are pristine in tone. I prefer to use distortion pedals separately as I am very fussy about what type of drive I want, but as for time based effects, TC have always had the edge. I'm not endorsed by 'em or anything! Lol. I agree, I had a Bass Pod Pro rack. It was great, but A/B against the TC it was obvious which was the better of the two. Hope this helps!

Hey everybody! Please check out http://www.iguitarmag.com/ and click on issue 6. This month I've an interview with Frank Bello from Anthrax recorded live at the recent Hartke clinic and I'm reviewing some tasty gear: TC Electronics RH750 Musicman Stingray Fishman Fission PowerChord fx Washburn B5 electro acoustic Bass The magazine is FREE and you can subscribe for email updates too! As always I welcome comments and you can find me on my usual social networks ;0) Oh and there's a banner at the bottom or top of BassChat to take you straight to the mag if you lose this post! Dooooooooooood.

That's very nice of you to say so! I hoped to get as much of the ability of the amp over as much as possible and not my playing!

See if you can grab a nos GE 5751 , specifically the medical grade triple mica on black plates. A veritable HiFi banquet! Bit pricey but you'll be rewarded with crisp clarity that won't be out of place in home HiFi.

Bit late to the party, but I've got a video in the BC review section of the EBS session combo

This news pleases me! Darren, you're staying on board too right?

I saw a bass once with a small LCD screen with the battery condition displayed on it. Being LCD, the current draw was so small a 9v battery would have powered it for years longer than in comparison to the draw of the preamp. I mention this as it could be something to take in to consideration. I'm not sure who produced the LCD, but certainly your idea is something I'd like in my basses.

I think they're in short supply, as power amps *tend* to be 2 channel. My suggestion would be to grab something like a second hand MarkBass F1 which I feel is one of the better DClass heads available for a reasonable secondhand price. 500w in to 4 ohms should see you good. Just set the EQ flat :0)

Something worth mentioning if you're that way inclined, the .5's lil speaker is a midrange and treble unit, not just a tweeter, so it doesn't sound so independent from the rest of the can like some tweeters do. A smoother top end I think.

+1 to SimWells - I prefer the lower girth and top of the 4.5XLs and would agree that the 410XL in comparison is punchier. The 4.5 is also heavier if that's something you need to take in to consideration.

Thank you for clarifying the way the pickups mix at the jack sockets mate! - Is that the same for all the models? For some reason I thought that using one socket only mixed the two outputs but I must have gotten confuzzed! Maybe it's ric-o-sound I've got lodged in my noggin!

p.s. One day I'll put some pennies aside and get an Attitude bass!!

That's correct - Billy Sheehan runs two rigs, without going in to too much detail, and to over simplifiy, each rig is fed separately by each pickup. The front pickup (neck) supplies all the 'super deep low' and the P pickup everything else. I think when you use the other (nearest) output you should get both mixed, but if you use both outputs at the same time you will get a feed from each pickup separately each ith its own volume control. Thus, if you use just the furthest on it's own, due to the limitations of hardware and wiring, you will indeed just get the P pup output.

Congratulations Chloe!! x

Yeah, I agree with that - it was really soon and before any large number made it to the UK I believe.

Hey guys, I just have to chime in - and can be corrected if I am wrong - but if you are wanting a Steve Harris bass tone, you need neither a Pod or a Sansamp. Steve played a large part of his career with just a Trace Elliot preamp, straight in to power amps and then 4x12 cabs with EV speakers in right? No modelling or crazy gubbins. So I'd say, the only think you might want in the set up you have already to add the signature clicky top end might be a graphic equaliser pedal. The P Bass with an SD pickup like Steves will do the rest for ya! - Turn it up loud and play lightly.

Oh sorry, missed a bit! Yes, I had the 145 specifically made by Newtone strings to get enough tension in t'other F# tuning, but moved to Warwick when the 175 gauge became available in the UK. Now Rotosound make 175 gauge as well, then I go get from them. But I'm not doing as much low tuned metal right now, so I may even have a go at a high F tuning! Hmmm... Maybe.. I prefer the lower notes though!

Doodle was designed specifically to handle a low F# right down to woods, construction and electronics. I think it was a success! total design time must have been about 6 months as Jon and I sent messages and phone calls back and forth. Speaking of tone, I just got back from another gig in London wih an engineer loving the tone straight off my Shukers! Very pleased about that!

Wow, 2007! Was it really that long ago!

I'd agree with the above, I have a second hand F1 that is use as a spare/ back up head. It's great because I can chuck it in my gig bag, but it's powerful enough to look after itself when used in my big rig! It does indeed come with rack ears and I think the 2nd hand prices make it very attractive even to use as just a power amplifier! So very light!

As I have a preference for Speakons for speaker connections I bridged my LH1000 and daisy chained from the head to the first 410 and out of the first in to the second. If you want to make use of the balance control then option A will allow this. It is disengaged when you bridge the two 500w power amplifiers together for option B I'd not do option 3 even if you do use the balance control to attempt to mute channel B. it is infact still outputting signal, but you won't have a speaker connected.

Sweet!

I'd take both the eBay lister and the TalkBass posts with a pinch of salt as it says nothing about how the cabinet or indeed about how the gear is being used. e.g. driving excessive low end (sub frequencies) in to it. I'd say that about any person making general comments about any gear. There's no fact in the reference to the power handling. I could make a speaker cabinet 'fart out' with not a great deal of power which could lead to premature failure of the speaker. Or maybe, just unlucky, the guy had a faulty cabinet? It does happen after all.