Twincam

That's a good bit of knowledge to have. I also tried the Gibson and had briefly a epi pro. And they were pretty similar. Although I did feel the Gibson was slightly nicer made. Not to the degree of the price difference in my opinion.

Who is buying his "creations" ??? Because surely they can't know any better.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142891195854 How would one know if this was real? Looks just like an epiphone pro with a Gibson decal on the truss rod cover. Surely they have a serial number on back of headstock or something?

Never send anything till the money is in the pocket or bank. Unless you know them personal or maybe there say a long term bc member. The fact he seems to of changed the agreement several times rings bells. And PayPal why. What's wrong with a bank transfer

Just ordered strings yesterday too! Grrrrr. I would of went with D'Addario ones with the code. But was swayed into trying some fender pure nickel strings, with the promise of reduced finger noise.

I have used a similar technique on dents. I have also tried many techniques. The first few goes of anything you don't get totally right. And im generally ok with things like that, but i have a few years of working with instruments now and I also found the years of car body work I did useful. I just think the technique you describe while i have no issues with it, may for the first time someone attempted something like that, might be a little too much without a practice attempted on a old body. As the op said its his first good bass. So hence I suggested a non invasive and fairly reversible method if things should go wrong. I also think that of superglue methods, If they go wrong for a relative novice then things can really go wrong!

It will probably be ok. If it was deeper it might cause an imbalance. Normally of course there flush or raised to account for the radius.

While that's all good and works well. And I'm all up for doing things right. I just worry that most people on the first time doing it that way will mess that up badly, to the point of needing someone to sort it out. Slicing into wood, refinishing etc that isn't a simple easy technique.

I hate nail varnish just badly applied to hide things. What you can't steam out you can try reapply the varnish better, it might also stabilise any smashed lacquer that might flake if you get deeper dents out.

Nail varnish is excellent for even fairly deep dents. If more invasive approaches are not wanted. Try steam little dents out there's many vids on YouTube. Larger cuts and dents fill with nail varnish and if the body is poly you can use nail varnish remover to knock down and polish the nail varnish flat and smooth with practice, no sandpaper needed. It wont get quite as good a finish as some other methods but its non invasive and can look very good. Of course if the body is nitro etc don't use nail varnish remover anywhere near it. If unsure test on a small unseen area first. Cool bass btw

As much of a routine task say like many a valve amp then that would be no. But of course some valve amps also don't need biasing routinely or at valve change either. And I would suggest if any valve amp needs that regular biasing something might be wrong. Bias is as you know factory set on solid state amps and it drifts much less over the amps lifetime than traditional valve tech and may even never need to be touched within a reasonable time frame. Older solid state amps may (probably) need adjustment. And if there's an issue, blown transistor etc and it's replaced (Not that uncommon) biasing certainly needs to be done. I dare say that a solid state amps bias should also be checked on proper routine service and certainly on an older amps service. It may not be as critical an issue as valve tech but still can cause problems. So yeah solid state bias while less of an issue than valve is still part of maintenance. There are a few ampeg amps, solid state based that are known for some bias issues. From my experience the svt 3 pro and br2 need adjustment.

Many solid state amps do indeed have bias adjustment. No and yes. These amps are known for humming when bias is wrong. Indeed filtering capacitors when going do make an amp make humming noise. But then again many things can cause humming in an amp to just simply whip out the capcitors first in this amp would probably be wrong unless the caps had clearly blown.

While what is suitable to gig with is subjective. This guy knows and he knows from experience! https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332775366220 I just feel that anyone buying this to gig with, other than in maybe a few scenarios, will be disappointed. Even with pa support. Someone might buy this thinking it will be suitable for something it's probably not.

I would be interested. Don't care what body style, neck, headstock or other aesthetics as such. Long as it's not horrible. Although try and keep costs down so nothing overly fancy but more functional for everyone. Nice clean lines. I suppose nut width 40mm so everyone should be ok, modern shaped neck not to slim not too thick in dimensions. Get rid of any fluff so no pg, one solid colour, bolt on neck. 2 tuners haha. Tried and tested non exotic body and neck material I'm thinking chipboard and ply! Mdf too heavy. Being serious alder or dare i say basswood (it is so good it has bass in it's name). One piece maple neck. Cheapest colour available, natural finely coated neck. I would personally only have 3 real, i would need these asks. 4 strings only! I won't do 5 as I heard Jaco only needed 3. And a stupid number of big pickups. So think 3 music man style pickups closely arranged, from very edge of bridge upwards. Maybe even 4 musicman style pickups! very closely spaced, although that might be a bit too far. Maybe even add a simple active system. This is mostly for show and wow off factor. And if we can get a master volume knob that goes to 11 on top of that, forget about it! But not a deal breaker ha. If a bass is coming from basschat it has to be powerful and stand out with (possibly silly) electrics, even if using modestly priced parts but doubling up haha. Or 1 jazz bass right at bridge, 1 mm pu in normal mm place. A split p bass style. Then to finish a mudbucker in the old mudbucker neck position. Personally I think 3 close spaced music man pickups with a simply active system, 4 mm pickups would be amusing! Lose the active system if need be. And price wise I think try and get it down too 600 or less like 450 give a few more people like me a chance to participate then demand 4 pickups haha. i think they could be able to make a nice and not just basic cnc bass (even low volume) with all those asks for 600 sterling, so break there balls further for a proper deal. Even with 4 pickups. If they can't do that then forget about it! Personally I think there instruments are a tad to alot overpriced especially given there not a big name by any means, although they look decent. So as long as we have the design relatively done then can always shop around after. Yes ive been watching Donnie Brasco.

Dare I say I also preferred the Mag, I think it was the eq points. The abm models I could never get it to sound as I would of liked. Mind you nor did the Mag models. Also from my experience the mags were more reliable. Imo the valve drive wasn't much cop on the abm models. I guess mileage would greatly vary though. Slightly better build quality in areas and bad design in other areas I won't go into it but I had two abm models at separate times and the heatsinks both buzzed loudly when playing certain notes, which I believe then caused stress on the board, leading to failure. One extra screw would of prevented that totally. To echo some others thoughts mag or abm theres better amps out there. I want to like ashdown and I've really tried. I think there is a place for them, just there versatility isn't great. And I hated the saying about them sounding woolly, unfortunately to my and many other ears that was the case. I will add my opinions are mostly based on the slightly older models.

I think he is massively underrated. By himself too. The bass lines are cool and iconic. I'm not a clash expert so I don't know how much input he had exactly but he still had to play them. Very fitting they were and good enough to be in some of the best music of the era, genre and some will even say the best music ever. I think maybe people get hung up on technical ability rather than what sounds good given what's needed, especially when discussing players who played relatively but not always simple bass lines.

What gets me wound up, is people doing a no finger style demo. Its all slapbass (See bottom of link). The thing is ancient too (1936), it's just wrong, him sat there slapping the stinky poo out of it. Then he breaks out a pick from nowhere and really goes to town with that too. I stopped watching when he started tapping. I want to hear its normal finger style tone. Haha only joking. There isn't any slap bass or pick playing in the demo , I wish there had been. I'm parodying demo comments.

Well I suppose it can always be changed back, keep original bits and if it makes the instrument more versatile that can't be bad. Might make the bass cut through a bit more? As you mentioned a slight issue with that. Bonus of not having to replace the original treble pot thats suspect too lol. I like the sound of the bass as is, it will be interesting though to do back to back comparison. And hear the difference.

I can only comment on the single pu version. As already said they are well made for the price. Single pu model very tone limited. That being said they are pleasant sounding. So the twin pu model will of course be more versatile. Very comfortable on the knee or standing. The neck profile is nice also. I can't remember how well mine set up, but I do remember the frets being level. The model number represents the finish only I think. At 200 or under it's a good buy.

Its possible. You would have to move all the frets accordingly. It's not just moving the nut closer to the fret, as that would be totally wrong. The thing is even if done properly. It might still look odd around the headstock, nut area. But I hear there's maybe just maybe one guy crazy enough to help you. His name is unmentionable on here but he is a eBay legend. Converter of instruments extraordinaire. Haha

I think the first part depends very much on the individual neck (assuming wood material), they all are slightly different, such as the nature of wood. Even cheap necks of today seem to do a good job of resisting change brought on by atmospheric changes, I would say. Even when pushing the more extremes of neck relief I've never seen anything go totally unplayable. If it did then you have set your action height more by the neck relief, which is wrong. Typically I set neck relief at .007 for flatter radius necks and up to .012 for old school 9.5 radius necks. Even if the neck straightened out totally, if the fret work is on point then it should be ok. I've only had one bass that needed adjustment regularly, while others are ok at twice or so a year and maybe even just once a year. I will say though that I've always kept on top of adjustments and I feel that if you have a instrument regularly used, especially if in a working capacity you should make sure it's at it's best all the time. All it takes is 2 minutes a Allen key and feeler gauge. Or in a pinch even a standard paper business card .013 I fully agree with the second part of what you said, thats of course for my own taste. As I mentioned in my post some leeway is best. Plus it does give a more rounded tone. Saying that many people manage with a very very low action and some even play hard that way and get a great tone that i could only dream of being able to. Its sad maybe but that aspect of setup, tone and others individual abilities trully fascinate me.

Just a thought is it not from the tanglewood overwater bass I sold you a while ago. As it had two plates one black and one pearl.

Im still available to help anyone out in the North East. Im based in the south durham area. I've also did some neck/fret work via post if anyone can't get help in there area. Im certainly not trying to take anything away from others, just I know sometimes there may not be anyone to hand. I do setup work from the basic things to the more advanced. All aspects of fret work including refretting, board leveling if needed etc, some minor electrical work and i can also do minor cosmetic work/damage repair. Im updating as I've had a couple of enquiries on here of late. And it's been mentioned my last post on this thread is a little old. Thanks

Your not asking the impossible, or at least shouldn't be. Some manufactures do give out a tension guide, but even then it's difficult, especially if going to another manufacturer. As already said by ikay, instrument setup and how hard you play are also big factors. There is a difference between a bass that's setup ok and a bass that is setup to exacting standards in every possible way (Not to sound too dramatic there). I would say unless you have a very heavy hand the Ernie ball 45 - 105s should easily be of high enough tension for a low to very low action. That being lower than a standard 2.4mm - 2.0mm action at the 17th fret. And without any untoward noise in the slightest, unless intended. If you have a light to very light touch then with a proper setup insanely low action is achievable with those strings. Although I feel there should be some leeway in a setup for more dynamics (harder playing) should the need arise. But everyone's requirements are different not just in terms of playability but in what sort of sound you want. As the action has a effect on that. Just to point out me saying the above was not in anyway a underhand sales tactic for setup work.