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About converse320

  • Birthday 03/04/1958

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  1. Or just use an efficient cab with the PF50t.
  2. I can duly report Its really really good for keyboards. Certainly much more obviously impressive than on bass actually. I think with a pokier high resolution amplifier it will be even better. Very happy.
  3. New cable came in the post this morning so I've had a bit of a play with it with an Ampeg PF20 and bass. First thing I noticed is how efficient it is compared to the cabinet I use most, which is an old 1516 diesel cabinet. It goes deafeningly loud with volume about half way up. Second thing I noticed is that there is much less hum coming through than with the other cabinet - Ive always found the Ampeg a bit poor in the hum department, but its much better with the this cab. I don't know why this would be. Maybe I was using a better socket. Next I noticed I needed to file my nails; there is a LOT of high frequency information available if you want it. Its very clear and natural though. Bass was hard to judge, as the room didnt like low frequencies very much. The floor was shaking at quite low volumes. It clearly goes very low if you want it to. It seems to respond very quickly and predictably to tone controls as well - the PF20 is definitely a good match to it. And I really I can't imagine many situations where you'd need more power. High efficiency is a nice and unexpected bonus, I think lots of low powered amps will give you all the volume you need with this cabinet. Impressed so far. I'll try it with an electric piano when my daughter comes in from school - thats what I built it for really
  4. Welcome. I started bass properly when I was 60. Lincolnshire is a great place to live. Lot of opportunities in Lincoln.
  5. Leather corners would be great. The radiuses are pretty tight though as its fairly thin ply, so not sure if it would work - but thats a great suggestion, I was going for the Mesa Boogie basket weave look as I'll be using a D-180 with it. The fabric is going to be this one: https://www.mojotone.com/Cabinets_x/Grillcloth_x/Mojotone-Black-Tan-GrillCloth
  6. Now, much as I like carpet, I do think it would be a lot harder and probably heavier. But Tuffcab in Pistachio would be great. I had a Lotus Elan about 40 years ago and I always dreamed of getting it resprayed Pistachio......
  7. Its a bit darker and greener still. I would have called it British racing Green. This one is still a bit too blue. On my uncalibrated monitor. I'm very pleased with the colour and finish. It's pretty much perfectly even. I found I got the best finish by giving it a quick coat for coverage, then rollering it out after a few minutes. It's hard to get a perfectly even finish if you try to roller it out immediately. But don't leave it more than a few minutes, it goes off very quickly. You just need a dryish roller with light pressure to set the crinkles at the end, after you have covered it properly. I think red would look good.
  8. Here's one in toughcab green moss, waiting for material for the grille. The green isn't as blue as it seems in the pictures - its more of a british racing green. I got it all assembled and then remembered I don't have any cables that will fit, so can't tell you what it sounds like I'm afraid. But it looks ace. Thanks again for brilliance of Stevie and all the other helpers.
  9. Depends mostly on the head I think. I was looking for a Peavey Classic 400 and found them listed at prices from £325 through to over £1000 within the last 3 years. Never managed to see one when I had cash - the £325 one sold rapidly. If I was looking for one now (I'm not, bought something else instead), I'd expect pay £500 or so for a well used tatty one without major problems., much more for one that a collector might want. Big old cabs are hard to shift, so not much for them, regardless of condition. The Classic 400 is rare and has a (small) cult following so I think you'd have no problem moving it on if you didn't like it. Just my guess. I'm often wrong which is why I have a house full of unsaleable crap.
  10. I was really only commenting on size of instrument, rather than whether its electric/acoustic or whatever On that question, I think its down to whatever motivates the child really. My daughter heard electric guitar when she was about 5 and just said "I want to do that". I've tried her on acoustic and she has zero interest. She just likes electric guitar, and seems to have at least some natural ability. Her tutor has her playing classical pieces on electric, so she's learning some of the skills, though I'm sure missing a lot as well. But its hard enough to get children to play at all, so I'm pleased she's found something she's keen on.
  11. My daughter started with a mini strat when she was about 6. This was a great choice for her - she certainly couldn't have coped with anything bigger. She learned to play Smoke On The Water with a cardboard box over her head to prove she wasn't looking at the frets with this very guitar.....She stuck with the Ministrat until she was 11, when she moved to Gibson scale length. I can't imagine a smallish 8 year old having much fun with a full sized guitar. I've seen Ministrats on gumtree for £60, so can't see any reason not to get something like that. She's now using a Vintage Wolfgang copy, which is kind of a full sized guitar, but small all round. Good choice for a smaller player if you can put up with the floyd rose.
  12. The amp I had to repair was a Mesa Boogie D-180, cooincidentally. There's really not very much holding the face plate on the D 180 - 4 small bolts per side, which stripped on mine. I'm sure 99% of the time supporting only from front will be fine, but a couple of blocks at the back of the sleeve stopping the amp body sliding inside the sleeve would have save me about 12 hours work in this particular instance. I had to use very small children to get some of the case bolts out.
  13. I bought an old valve amp in a rack sleeve, and found it had been dropped at some point. I guess it had hit the ground at the rear, because the impact had ripped the whole amp chassis from the faceplate. Some support at the rear to stop the chassis sliding in the sleeve would have helped, but I've never seen one designed like that.
  14. My thoughts - I am often wrong so treat with caution. Short answer - you are limited by how many clamps you have. if you are skilled and confident and have maybe 24 clamps do it in 2 stages. Otherwise you'll have to do it in more and smaller stages . I've done 2 now. If I were to do another one,for perfect results I would do some initial preparation then glue it in one go - it will then pull together correctly. To do it like this will need a lot of clamps - you'd need to clamp in 3 planes, in maybe 8 locations per plane - so 24 clamps, though not all need be super long. You would also need to work quickly so do several dry assemblies first as practice. So you'd need to be reasonably experienced and confident, and it could potentially get a bit hairy. Open time for PVA on timber like this is not super long. So I would 1) First glue up the back and its braces and input panel, and front and single brace, giving completed front and back assemblies. Be careful, use long reach clamps, check everything goes down properly. This is pretty straightforward - practice first. 2) Glue the reinforcing ring/circle to the top and bottom panels - easy, make sure you stick them on the insides though 3) Pour glue into a bowl, stiff paintbrush to apply, big clear work bench, huge stack of clamps, someone to help pass clamps and apply glue super quickly. Glue all ends, channels, edges. Two coats, work really quickly. Knock together with rubber mallet, then gently pull it together in all 3 planes.
  15. Diesel 1516 and D-180 here, mostly because it meant something to me personally from when I first got interested. The D-180 isn't stupidly heavy either. The 1516 is.
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