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converse320

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About converse320

  • Birthday 03/04/1958

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    horncastle

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  1. I've only just come across Dan Hawkins on Youtube and Bass Lessons Online. He's got a lot of good stuff to say, and I like his commitment to keep some of his lessons free always. Seems like a good guy and a huge bonus is that he's put a syllabus/lesson structure in place, so you can actually work through his stuff with a sense of purpose and plan. I don't know if he's on Basschat, but great job anyway. And he plays some cool basses...
  2. What have you tried driving it with? I've got an old diesel which sounds average without a beefy amp.
  3. Manufacturers describe it variously as waterproof or water resistant, so I wouldn't have expected issues with that on a bass bridge, but certainly there are better adhesives for things you expect to get wet or damp.
  4. So its the durability of the repair that's the issue? Interesting, I've never had an issue with CA durability and have found it great for wicking into small cracks in hardwood like this. It would certainly be harder to get a "proper" wood glue into the split. I tend to use either traditional glues or CA exclusively these days.
  5. I'm not a luthier, but I've mended a lot of wood cracks over the years. Why not low viscosity superglue, and a small clamp?
  6. http://guitar-george.co.uk/ George is in Lincoln and I'm pretty sure he's got an electronics background as well, so you could try him and see what he says.
  7. I thought he was singing "In this ever changing world in which we're livin..."
  8. Yes, its a real pain. But its the only thing not to like.
  9. Or just use an efficient cab with the PF50t.
  10. I can duly report Its really really good for keyboards. Certainly much more obviously impressive than on bass actually. I think with a pokier high resolution amplifier it will be even better. Very happy.
  11. New cable came in the post this morning so I've had a bit of a play with it with an Ampeg PF20 and bass. First thing I noticed is how efficient it is compared to the cabinet I use most, which is an old 1516 diesel cabinet. It goes deafeningly loud with volume about half way up. Second thing I noticed is that there is much less hum coming through than with the other cabinet - Ive always found the Ampeg a bit poor in the hum department, but its much better with the this cab. I don't know why this would be. Maybe I was using a better socket. Next I noticed I needed to file my nails; there is a LOT of high frequency information available if you want it. Its very clear and natural though. Bass was hard to judge, as the room didnt like low frequencies very much. The floor was shaking at quite low volumes. It clearly goes very low if you want it to. It seems to respond very quickly and predictably to tone controls as well - the PF20 is definitely a good match to it. And I really I can't imagine many situations where you'd need more power. High efficiency is a nice and unexpected bonus, I think lots of low powered amps will give you all the volume you need with this cabinet. Impressed so far. I'll try it with an electric piano when my daughter comes in from school - thats what I built it for really
  12. Welcome. I started bass properly when I was 60. Lincolnshire is a great place to live. Lot of opportunities in Lincoln.
  13. Leather corners would be great. The radiuses are pretty tight though as its fairly thin ply, so not sure if it would work - but thats a great suggestion, I was going for the Mesa Boogie basket weave look as I'll be using a D-180 with it. The fabric is going to be this one: https://www.mojotone.com/Cabinets_x/Grillcloth_x/Mojotone-Black-Tan-GrillCloth
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