Chienmortbb

Noisy electrics. Firstly looks at electro-mechanical items like pots (Volume and tone controls) and battery connections. These are much more likely to be a problem than the parts in the preamp PCB. Use pliers to nip the battery clip connectors a little tighter and don't forget the battery itself. For the pots, rapid rotation 20-30 times of the pots can clear dirt and dust that accumulates below the wipers. If that does not clear it try deoxit. If that does not work you may need new pots. It is unlikely the preamp itself is causing ge crackles but check each end of all the cables to see that they are still soldered properly. Oh and some pictures may help if you can upload them.

£36 a set on Strings Direct. Pass especially when they are $26

Oops

I need to buy a cheap Radio Mic for Poole Town Football Club for the stadium PA. I need a mic that is sub £100. Channel 38 is out as the original cost plus yearly licence fee are too high for a part time club. The club play at the 7th Step of the Football Pyramid, three leagues below the football league. Other options are to add the Alesis mic link to an existing dynamic mic. That runs on 2.4Ghz but range is limited to 60ft, about 18 metres. So it looks like one of the mics that operate on FM in the 863-865MHz licence free band. I have been pushed in the direction of the AKG WMS40. That looks great but our old mic in that band was picking up adjacent channel 4G phone interference as some mobile networks use the band just below 863MHz. So the new kid on the block is the Numark WS100. It uses digital coding in ge 863-865 MHzbNd but should be immune from adjacent channel interference. It also has a free air range in excess of 60 metres compared to the AKG spec of 50 metres. Finally it is a true diversity system for £60. Sounds too good to be true and although it is due in a few days, retailers push me toward the AKG. Now I gave nothing against AKG in fact I. Have 4 pairs of AKG headphones. So am I being pushed to buy current stock, should I be wary of Numark's entry to the market or is there a better sub £100 handheld system out there? All opinions welcome.

So what you are saying is that true bypass is not the holy grail many think it is? If so any simple buffer would do. At far less than£200.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1458210013' post='3005550'] UPDATE: Ahem... Long story short, I used an existing FL Studio file for the HB demo to save time and didn't notice there was an EQ plugin on the bass channel... which I have now removed. Here's the updated audio file for anyone who's interested... [url="https://www.mediafire.com/?uo7r65oi7ysll7e"]https://www.mediafir...uo7r65oi7ysll7e[/url] I've made it a .wav file as SoundCloud compresses everything to a 128kbps .mp3 file... I think you'd have to agree it's a lot smoother and less 'grainy'. It could even be less 'woolly', who knows..? Point is, the Wilkinson pickup is perfectly adequate in my opinion, so if you were thinking about buying a HB PB-50 you shouldn't have to factor in the cost of an upgrade pickup. In theory you don't need to spend any money on it at all if roundwounds are your thing. Just a little time setting up and a bit of a fettle if you're that way inclined... bargain! [/quote] A wise choice. A pickup is only a coil of wire around a magnet, no matter how much fairy dust you sprinkle on it.

[quote name='darren' timestamp='1457990390' post='3003781'] I too couldn't resist one of these. I intend to reshape the headstock at some point. I was thinking of using a coping saw but may go jigsaw now. I prefer mine without the pickguard but the gold and those bridge saddles work nicely. [/quote]If you use the really thin jigsaw blades and take care, a jigsaw will be fine. Most people use the wide blades and they do not turn easily. If you want to reduce sanding time, do not use the scroller feature. It is quick but leaves a mess.

Neutrik recommend +1 -1 for normal full range output or the low frequencies in a bi-amped system. +2-2 connections are to be used for the MF/HF The suggestions for wiring ( there is no real standard) are found in the Neutrik document found here http://www.neutrik.co.uk/zoolu-website/media/download/66/speakON+Wiring+Suggestion

One of the early posters was right. The English name for it is Linden, the Anerican name is basswood (pronounced like the fish not the instrument). I now only have Linden basses because of the weight.

Bassists against Brexit?

Is it wise to use wire wool on a bass with magnetic pickups?

Sorry duplicate post.

I believe that many Far East Fenders have machine heads from two makers , Ping and s name I cannot remember. Although the machine heads fitted to the Aerodyne are OK, they are not to Gotoh's usual standard. I am fitting the GB350 res-o-lites but they are not traditional elephant ears.

I have to agree with you and will try to sell as s whole bass. Ironically with a plywood body, the money I get will be peanuts but it is a really good bass. Easy to play, good sound, much better than most Squiers. I think I might just hide it in the garage, and tell SWMBO I had to give it away,

It seems to me that it is often more rewarding financially to break a bass for spares, Even reletively expensive basses like Fender Aerodyne are sold in the USA for spares. I suppose people will do anything to make more money but it feels wrong. I will be selling my cheap Peavey Milestone V soon manly as Mrs Chienmort has imposed a one out, one in policy. Is it worth selling as a whole bass or selling the neck, machine heads, pickup etc separately.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1443476233' post='2875155'] <really pedantic> I believe he also owned an 8 string bass. </really pedantic> [/quote] I bet it was a twin neck with a drop D tuning on one!

It is a Class A high impedance / low impedance buffer. Priced at just short of £200. The real question is why you would need one?

Surely one of the Gotoh ranges would be good. Are you going lightweight? If so something in Gotohs Resolites range would be good,