Chienmortbb

Let me know if it falls through.

Has this gone?

I bought some Gotoh GB707 machine heads last year and was going to put them on my Fender Aerodyne. I also just bought some GB350 ResOLites and realised they were different. The GB707s are 4 in line Right Tuners, that is for a left hand bass. My immediate thought was to sell them but I am wondering what would be the issues with using the tubers the wrong way around. I would have to modify the headstock to use them so I am not keen to suck it and see. Any opinions appreciated.

[quote name='6v6' timestamp='1457353517' post='2997578'] Inside a bass CTS or Alpha are perfectly fine IMO, you could pay more for something slightly more fancy, but then take a look inside your FX pedals and amp - all of the pots there are either equivalent or worse than CTS/Alpha IME. [/quote]Not in my amp they ain't. However I am building it.

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1457432653' post='2998397'] yes - definitely avoid electrolytics where not necessary. On non-electrolytics - the costs of 20% vs 10% overlap to a large extent depending on the manufacturer / supplier at any particular time. It's pretty much a commodity market. Rather than the tolerance I'd be more concerned about voltage and temperature stability. The 20% types are generally (though not exclusively) likely to have lower quality dielectrics -- but it means they can get more capacitance into a smaller volume. Things do get expensive (in capacitor terms) if you go for 5% tolerance. I was really thinking more about people fitting their own capacitors / pots so the component cost is a fraction of what you'd end up paying for the same component fitted to a new bass (although you may have to buy a few of the capacitors as they may not be available singly). As an example for a 100n Cap' I'd likely go for: [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/wima/mkp2d031001f00kssd/capacitor-10-100nf-100v-mkp2/dp/CA08109"]http://cpc.farnell.c...mkp2/dp/CA08109[/url] I know it has pcb type legs which might not be the most convenient but probably worth it for the capacitor characteristics. Glue it to the back of the pot and solder / wire wrap ! [/quote]You are right, that cap you quote is a Wima and an excellent cap. It will be more expensive than some maker's 5% caps as Wima have achieved mythical status in audiophile circles.

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1457397810' post='2998201'] Except of course that they don't use electrolytics in the bog standard passive circuits we're talking about here. [/quote]I was not talking about electrolytic capacitors. Ceramic are rarely lower than 20%, Film caps are available from 20% down to 2%. However if you are mass producing and buying in the 1000s, even 5p is worth saving. Save 5p on each cap and pot and that can be 20-30p. On a run of 1000 basses that is £200-300.

To be honest the material is almost irrelevant. If there is any binding on the strings, tuning will be erratic. Say your luthier cut the G slot to 42 to accommodate a 40 thou string and you use a 45 thou G then it will probably bind. I would pay for full setup and take the luthier's advice on what needs doing. Where are you based?

I would have said teak based on some teak bookcases I have. It both does and doesnotlookm like mahogany if you know what I mean.

Try Wembley Loudspeakers. They did a recon for me years ago on a driver that had no redone kit. [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#1E3E8C"]Email:[/color][/size][/font] [email="[email protected]"][font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#CC0033"][email protected][/color][/size][/font][/email] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#1E3E8C"]Tel:[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#CC0033"]020 8743 4567[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#1E3E8C"]Fax:[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#CC0033"]020 8749 7957[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#1E3E8C"]Address:[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#CC0033"]Unit A4 West 12 Studios 2A Askew Crescent London W12 9DP England[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#1E3E8C"]Contacts:[/color][/size][/font] [font="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"][size="1"][color="#CC0033"]Paul MacCullum - MD Paul Mansfield Tony Collins[/color][/size][/font]

Agree with Mr Manton there. Schallers rarely let you down.

[quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1457345452' post='2997474'] Whilst it's usual for electrolytic caps to be +/-20% tolerance other types eg ceramic ; film ; poly are generally available in 10% or 5% or tighter tolerance. [/quote]You are right but the big guitar builders always cut costs on the electrics. They would go for 20% as I this usually lower priced.

I forgot to say that I would go for Bourns, Alps or Omeg. I use the Green Omeg ones where I can although it is hard to get those splined. By the way, not everyone agrees with me ( because that is the way Leo did it) but I hate seeing wire soldered to the body of a pot. They were not designed for that and so the joint cannot be guaranteed. You should use proper shielding.

Firstly +1 to conductive plastic and cermet pots. Secondly, commercial pots are +/- 20% and that means a 250k could be between 200-300K and a 500K could be 400-600K. Would that affect the tone? Is the Pope Catholic? Caps are also 20% tolerance unless otherwise stated do you can see how the electrics of your guitar can mess with your tone.

Like most kids toys they are probably fitted with the cheapest batteries around only for "demo" purposes.

Hosco make top quality luthiers tools like fret files, nut file etc. There is nothing to suggest that their necks would be anything but top quality too. Hopefully like the tools, the necks would be MIJ

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1424859333' post='2701162'] Many Jazz bass wiring relies on the mechanical connection between the mounting of pots & jack socket onto the metal bell plate, it saves .02 pence worth of extra wire but of course as soon as you get a loose nut or even a bit of corrosion under your nuts any earthing is at best - intermittent & doubtful It appears from your photo' that the pots are not of the 'highest quality' & also they are 500K Linear, which is certainly not what I would recommend for a Jazz Bass they are probably at the end of their useful life anyway! I would suggest a new wiring kit would go a long way to solving all your problems [/quote]Without knowing the maker, you cannot just assume that B is linear. In Britain and many other places A is linear and B is Log. I will give you that most countries now follow the US convention of A - Audio ( logarithmic ), B Linear but you can't just assume one or other convention.

Your are correct about the pencil trick but it might be better than no law at all On the pot. What often happens is that the carbon ( I hate carbon pots) is worn away by the metal wiper. It is sometime possible to bend the wiper to touch an unused part of the pot's track. The worn part will reduce the value of the pot to some extent but as most pots ( and caps) found in guitars at +/-20% tolerance you won't notice the difference. For it were me I would put OMEG or Bourns pots in, either conductive plastic or cermet. As for CTS expensive and IMHO not as high quality as Bourns and OMEG.

[quote name='Hutton' timestamp='1455876822' post='2983132'] Many thanks for all the replies here folks. I've decided to fit a new loom as provided by our own KiOgon. The original bits can sit in the case. [/quote]what pots are fitted to that?

If the Fender trick uses an isolating transformer, the output will be balanced. It will only become unbalanced if you connect to an unbalanced input.

Can you send a picture of the insides.

[quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1456257108' post='2987209'] I've looked and found a couple of things that may be of interest for this type of set-up. John East does a module that sounds like it would do the job 'MPM-01' but I've also found a website '[url="http://www.cafewalter.com/cafewalter/fetpre/index.htm"]Cafe Walter[/url]' that has a piezo circuit. [/quote]Walter Harley of Cafe Walter is a great guy. Email him saying what you are trying to do and he will advise on any mods to that circuit. Hi whole site is worth a read.

[quote name='Handwired' timestamp='1451765485' post='2943293'] What no tubes? [/quote]Only youTubes😛

Ashdown and Alex are right but the only way to ensure that an amp has s usable volume control all the way up is to match the bass guitar to the input gain of the amp. Of course some amps ( Ashdown especially ) have some form of input gain or attenuator and arguably the best way to set it up is using the much maligned VU meter. This is exactly what a good sound tech would do with a channel strip on a mixer. Also remember that the minute you put stomp box on the floor, your gain structure is screwed.