geoffbyrne

Great legs!!!!!!!!!!! G.

1000 Watts? Not likely with Bugera's track record!! Maybe (maybe) 500. Also, seemingly no output for a 2nd cab....... Mmmmm. G.

I'd leave the pickups & put a John East J-Retro preamp into it - it'll give you much more range & variation of tone than changing pickups. G.

I love it when a plan comes together!!!! G.

Sounds as tho they may have been accidentally wired out of phase. To fix it reverse the conductors on one of the pickups.

Had to play a CSI twin neck SG type in 12- and 6- string format many years ago when the strap on my Les Paul let go and it fell & somehow managed to snap most of the strings. The keys player had this in the back of his car & I used it for the whole of the gig - which happened to be an 8pm till Midnight dancing gig, by which I mean we played strict tempo ballroom stuff as well as Rock & Scottish Country dances. The twin neck was set up beautifully with the 12 neck possibly being the best guitar neck I've ever played & the 6 was not far behind. It also sounded good. BUT it was a terminal neck diver. If I let it go the heads turned down & pointed at my feet instantly. I had to support the necks while playing the whole time. Next day I had a very, very sore shoulder & to be honest, I think my shoulder has never recovered. YMMV. G.

When I got The Bass Doc (how is he, by the way?) to replace the fretboard of my bass with a fretless, I went for unmarked and with the side dots in the correct places for fretless, but most importantly, I needed a marker at the 1st fret position as I was getting really poor position near to the nut. I found that the extra marker really helped. G.

I had one of those. Best neck I ever played. I found the bass & mids knobs were pretty decent but the treble didn't do much. I tried an East U-Retro with it but it didn't much like the active pickups. I believe there's a pre-amp swap with another Peavey model you can do on it to improve things but I can't remember the details. G.

+1 the above - a rattling tuner (as it turned out) almost drove me spare till I discovered what was doing it. G.

Our house currently sports 2 x Hewlett Packard Tower PCs, 4 x HP laptops and an HP netbook. All are reliable. One laptop is an I7 processor, one an I5, one a Core II Duo and one an ancient and slow (but still reliable) Celeron. Currently all are running Win7 except the I7 which is Win10 Preview and the Netbook which runs Mint Linux. Both tower PCs are quad core. I don't run Win7 in less than 4 Gb RAM and 8Gb on the towers. The netbook is limited to 2 Gb but the Linux runs fast on it, partially due to the SSD. As you've probably surmised, I'd suggest you took a look at HP machines. Good luck whatever you decide on. G. p.s. Since Apples & PCs effectively use the same hardware these days (you can firkle Apple OS to run on PC & Windoze to run on Apple) I feel that paying Apple prices make for a very expensive PC. You can get versions of Linux that emulate Win or AppleOS and, generally, run faster. G.

Hold the tuner & play the string - I had a rattling tuner. Replaced it & the rattle went away. G.

These look pretty similar to the pickups on the Baldwin guitars from the late 60's, early 70's. These were, I believe made in Italy. G.

+1 for a used TRB6 - the TRB range (if I recall) was originally started with the 6 string - these original models made in Japan, are as good as anything out there, [Statement of Interest] I play a japanese TRB5. [/Statement of Interest] IMHO. G.

To answer the OP's question....... Peavey or Yamaha - advice already given above. I had 3 Yammy 5ers and still have 2 and they are Good Enough and a Peavey Cirrus BXP I owned had the nicest neck I've ever played. G.

Booked for Glasgow. G.

I had a Frankenstein Jazz that used 2 x DiMarzio DP123 Model J's (4 conducter). These look like Jazz pups but are two separate core in-line wired like a P, thus hum-cancelling, They are also hum-cancelling when wired in parallel. I wired them to push/pull volume pots in such a way that they were in parallel when the pot was down and in series (P-bass) when pulled. This proved to be a very flexible setup. DiMarzio Ultra J's (DP149) are also wired like this, but sound a lot less like a P. G.

It'll only take a couple of hour's playing to get over the 'wrong string' syndrome. Concentrate on playing across the fretboard instead of up & down. I start at the 5th fret if I'm playing in E (for example) and that allows mo to go across without shifting up or down. G.

If you move to a (new) Schaller 3D bridge, they come with a plastic baseplate which raises the whole thing by 3mm. G.

Remember - you are *widening* the slot - don't make it deeper (assuming all was previously OK!!). G.

I have a Mk1 TRB5 that's absolutely terrific once you understand the pre-amp. I also have a fretless BBG5 with RBX375 pickups - amazing sound for an inexpensive instrument. And I had a BB415 fitted with a John East U-retro that was an absolute tone monster. I like Yamahas!!!!!!!!!!!!!! G.

Never had blister probs with bass - I use the flats of my fingers rather than the tips, but when I regularly played guitar I had callouses on which I could stub out cigarettes - and did for a party trick. Don't have right hand probs either. G.

Go & knock on his door - he's in the North of Leicester.

[quote name='sirmuppet' timestamp='1429453292' post='2751483'] Thanks guys. I compared the out put to one of my strats and it's still lower than that. That was also after raising the pickup height as much as I could. I thought the strangle switch only cut the bottom end out but not affecting the output? [/quote] No, dependant on your amp settings, it can cut the volume quite substantially. I mostly use my VI as a bass, but sometimes it takes lead and I have a pedalboard set up with an MXR 80+ to give a volume boost and lead tone at the end of the FX chain, so I never really touch the strangle switch. G.

Yamaha TRB5? G.

I leave the bass & treble flat and boost my low mids set to around 180 - 220 Hz. This give 'bassiness' without the muddy lows. Boosting around 2 - 4 Khz will give bite. Cutting around 800Hz will remove honk. Experiment. G.