geoffbyrne

I haven't got one, but I used to (in the early 60's!). There were 2 body depths - mine was the thin & it was about 1.75" - I have no idea about the deep body - mayby 3/3.5". They tend to split in the longitude direction just above the heel, where it joins the body - as the end of the fretboard floats above the body. Check for quality of repair if it has. G.

I have a BBG5A which the Bass Doc modded with a fretless fingerboard & I swapped the pickups for the double-pole pups from an RBX375, so I'm not sure how valid this is, but I love it! It's a wee bit on the heavy side, but the tone from the 'buckers has that extra kick of mids that works for fretless. Usual brill Yammy construction & heavy hardware. It's the one that lies out all the time. G.

I've got one of these on my BB415 and it works just fine - looks good too. G.

It's how it used to be done - hence the 'finger rest' being in the 'wrong' position on old Fenders. Still do it when I want 'mwah' on the fretless. G.

I'm 67 & I'd be gigging and jamming at least twice a week if I could get a band..... G.

I have a Digitech Genesis 1 (I have 2 actually, plus a Genesis 3). Headphone out of laptop into 'Line In' on Genesis. Plug headphones into Genesis. Plug bass into Genesis - set up amp/cab/tone. Play track on laptop & play along. Genesis 1 is not terribly expensive on Ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digitech-Genesis-1-Guitar-Signal-Processor-/131276398492?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Outboards_Effects_MJ&hash=item1e90aedf9c http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digitech-Genesis-3-GNX-series-Guitar-effects-/231317087234?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Outboards_Effects_MJ&hash=item35db92a402 The Genesis 1 is pretty straightforward, but the Genesis 3 (no idea what happened to Genesis 2) is a much more complex beast, being, in effect, a programmable Digitech GNX-1 Multi-FX in a manual box. We also use 2 xGen1 & a Gen3 plus electronic drums into a small mixer, with a line-in from the PC then a small Berhinger 4-output headphone unit. This allows up to 4 of us to jam silently. G.

'Unreliable Memoires' by Clive James. Don't read it in public - people will wonder why you are laughing. G.

Thanks David, I'll try it. G.

I think this sounds like the wiring I had in my Thunder IIIA Mk2: If I remember, the controls were (from left to right): Jack socket (Duh!!!) Active bass boost/cut Pickup Selection Active/Passive switch Passive treble roll-off Series/parallel switch (operates individually on pups - neck was a P type, bridge was 2 spool humbucker - both went into series/parallel simultaneously - i.e. you couldn't have bridge series & neck parallel) Volume/Phase (on a push/pull) My memory isn't great - the mini switches may have been the other way round. The series/parallel was, I think an 8 pole. There was certainly a huge variation in tone available despite only one element of the tone stack being active. Unfortunately I don't have a diagram or picture of the guts. The nearest I could suggest is maybe a John East P-type active circuit combined with a passive treble roll-off & vol. Just a thought. G.

[quote name='Myke' timestamp='1409532066' post='2540669'] My Yamaha TRB is 34". It's the older version with the slap cutout. The newer ones are 35" I think. [/quote] Ditto. Ibanez ATKs. G.

I had a B Bass (Jack with a headstock). It also had this arrangement of the battery box holding both a battery and a rectangular metal box with a screw adjustment. In my case, it turned out to be containing the pre-amp, and the screw adjusted the output up and down. G.

The lightest 5er I have is my Sterling by Musicman SUB 5. It's way lighter than any of my others except for my Yammy RBX250, which is a 4, but it's pretty light too. I've heard some of these SUBs are very light (i.e. mine) and some not so, so maybe worthwhile trying one? G.

A fretless with black nylons (No!! Strings on the fretless!!!!!) G.

In my experience, yes. G.

Swap the SD QPs into the Streamer & see if the sound goes with them. G.

No problem cutting through the mix with the SUB (or the ATK!). I can't remember having probs with the pre - just followed the instructions & it worked - but I've done more than a few & my soldering is OK. G.

The original pre, as you said, was pretty brutal. I put a retrovibe in it and it's still got a powerful output, but sounds much better although the volume is still pretty much on or off. It's pretty light - certainly the lightest of all my 5 strings and not back-breaking at the end of the night. I like the neck & the action is good for me - I have a light touch & like a low action, letting the amp do the heavy lifting. I do both general functions and also blues. Obviously it's more suited to general stuff, but I've used it for blues - zonk up the bass & cut the top by 7/8 - and it was OK. FYI I also have an Ibanez ATK300 (4 string) which I prefer tonally - it's more Stingray than a stingray-thing - but it weighs a lot more. I feel the build is a little better classier too. However I think the SUB is great value for money and perfectly giggable. G.

Haven't had any prob gigging mine. G.

I have a Stering by Musicman SUB 5 in all black with a Retrovibe Pre. Stingray for days. Also, pretty light. Good action. All I've done over & above the pre is put some Swedish Oil on the unfinished back of the neck. I actually have a trade ad in the 'For Sale' thread for this, but if my arm was twisted up my back I might sell... G.

Pity you don't go for active, as a John East U-Retro preamp coupled with DiMarzio Model J pickups wired in series would do exactly what you want. G.

Maybe be better to change the preamp? G.

If your Yammie TRB is a japanese-made one, I'd have thought the fingerboard would have been ebony. G.