geoffbyrne

The standard model doesn't have a passive tone rolloff, just an active/passive switch and a neck/both switch. G.

You'll find everything you need at www.axesrus.co.uk and with free postage. G.

[quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1396458637' post='2413953'] Sterling by Musicman Sub are worth checking out. Tried one at the London Bass Guitar Show, was very impressed. [/quote] I have one like this: and although it needed a bit of work to set it up, it's very good indeed. G.

Sterling by Musicman SUB V - all right, it has 3 knobs, and did need a wee bit work on it after I got it, but once set up, it's terrific for the money. G.

DiMarzio J's wired in series (each one is, in effect, a P pickup in a single shell - ie 2 coils) if you like old school or parallel for a more modern feel. I had exactly this combo in my B Bass but on serial/parallel miniswitches and it was great. G.

[quote name='matt-bass-sparkes' timestamp='1396368749' post='2412776'] The above Status ones do [/quote] I know - I've had them on my fretless for over a year now & they just get better. G.

I loved these when I had them on my Westone Thunder III Fretless, but they don't make them in 5 string sets, or I'd still be using them. G.

Cables? Phase? G.

I'd ask KiOgon to make me a loom.....problem solved. G.

Ahhh - ok - I read the diagram as having 3 tubes. Same combination though, 5751 and 12AY7/12AU7. Can but try it. By the way, it seems that some valves marked 5751/12AY7/12AU7 are actually faulty or low quality 12AX7s being flogged off - and there are differences. If you go this route do your best to get genuine articles. G.

Would a bit of compression allow you to turn her up a bit? G.

If I remember correctly, the output on these is quite low & they are pretty scooped in tone. G.

I've had to botch up something like this - the lugs were broken off a pickup which was brought to me. The underneath of the pickup was flat, so I cut a suitable piece of old pickguard material and used epoxy to glue it onto the base of the pickup. This gave me enough overlap to put the screws though. It worked fine and is functionally invisible. Since you are most likely keeping the originals in case you want to restore them, I'm assuming that you wouldn't mind grinding the lugs off some after-market pickups and glueing a new base on them. G.

[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1395899379' post='2407682'] You'd have to try it I guess! Depends whether the DI is too hot because of the V2 tube itself, or because the V1 tube is feeding it too hot a signal. Perhaps it's a bit of both. If I had to guess, I'd say changing V1 would make the gain knob range more usable, and changing V2 would lower volume through the fx loop and DI. [/quote] In which case, if it were I, going by the diagram above, I'd try a 5751 in V1 and V2 and a 12AX7 in V3 and if the DI signal was still too hot, try a 12AU7 in V3 instead. This combo ought to give both more headroom and reduce the DI signal. G.

...and you're not *awfully* far from The Bass Doc. G.

I've just transferred a set of broken-in Chromes onto my SUB and oh boy, what a tone!!!! Has plenty of bite but no zing - a different thing entirely. Has to be at volume though - doesn't really sound right turned down. I think that's where many make the error when listening to flats. You have to hear the effect up loud. G.

So, would putting an 12AY7 or a 12AU7 in V2 sort the DI problem? G.

I had a Cirrus BXP V & it had probably the nicest neck I've ever played. It's Achilles Heel were the electronics - defo a bit iffy in the respect the pan wasn't very even, but otherwise OK. If the previous owner hadn't reamed the truss rod nut by hacking it with varous unsuitable tools, I'd probably still have it. The Subway Bluesband stuff in my sig. is recorded using it - mainly the neck pickup. I can also suggest the Yamaha BB414/415 as having a lovely slim jazz-type neck and not very expensive. G.

If I remember correctly, someone used to produce a bass with a huge intentional stwist in the neck.... http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/twist-neck-hwy-one-842038/ G.

Hohner B Bass V has narrow string spacing - don't know about the IV. G.

Many, many thanks for doing this. I owe you a pint (or three!) and much respect. So, to sum up, the Eminence Deltalite II 2515 works very well in this cab, but would probably benefit from having one of the ports blocked off - right? G.

Gosh that looks impressive!!! What effect would using the 4 ports have? Or is it a limitation of the software? Anyway, it looks as good as it sounds to my ear. When I use it conjunction with the 3015 (which is a bit more middy & brighter) I get about 800 watts capability and a very full sound. With my MAG400, that's my heavy rig - I also have a GB NX212 which I use with my MiBASS 550 as my light rig. I don't think it's just as loud or as bassy as the 15s, but it's a lot more manageable G..

[quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1395433532' post='2402540'] Hi Geoff, I've just re-run winISD with the Deltalite parameters. Looks like a nice fit at 120 litres. If you can give me the exact internal diameter of the port(s) I'll check it again. Balcro. [/quote] The 4 ports are 100mm diameter and the tubes are 165mm. You're doing a great job, mate. G.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1395434041' post='2402548'] Visually they're identical, they have the same frame. The only way to be sure is to measure the DC resistance. The Basslite is about 3.7 ohms, the Deltalite II about 5.3 ohms. [/quote] I've found the original PMs for the deal - it's a Deltalite II.

All I can tell you is it is the Neo driver & it's 8 ohms, my understanding being it is the Deltalite - any more info needed & I'll have to take it out the cab. And I play 5 strings almost exclusively - don't often hit low B, but low D crops up quite often. G. p.s. I've just looked at pics of the Basslite & the Deltalite II on Google, and it's defo the Deltalite.