geoffbyrne

Try putting the cab on its back & running at volume - the idea being that if a cable was rattling against a cone, then putting it on its back might make it hang away from the speaker. G.

+2 G.

One of these, if you can find one on Ebay UK: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DigiTech-Genesis-1-Guitar-Effects-Sound-Amp-Modeling-Processor-/191048879740?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2c7b668e7c G.

I had one of the Indian ones in pearlescent white. It was a decent player, the Achilles Heel being the electrics. The pickups were ice-pick sharp. However, with a decent set of GFS pickups & a new loom from Kiogon, you should have a very capable beater. G.

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1390562269' post='2346809'] I've got a sack barrow for carting my gear about... it's great, means I can take my 212 cab, amp, pedalboard and bass on the bus [/quote] Talking of which, where did you get bungee cords or whatever you use to hold the gear to the truck? I bought some from Halfords & they turned out to be way too short. G.

[quote name='bumnote' timestamp='1390043918' post='2340774'] Buy a 74, much cheaper and lie about your age [/quote] G.

Nickel turns my skin black, so don't use 'em. G.

I'd keep checking it for a while. Obviously if it's straight right now with no tension, then there must have been a considerable amount of relief while under tension. If it's just come off a strung bass, I'd be checking it daily over the next couple of weeks and if there is any indication of developing back-bow I'd take the strain off the truss rod. If it's been lying off a bass for a considerable time and is now straight, then it has settled and you need not do anything except check that the truss rod still has some play left in it. G.

I was born in 1947!!! G.

Once again I sit corrected and am corrected by The Bassassin!!! <<Hangs head in shame and hides behind sofa which, being against a wall, is a bit of a tight fit.....>> G.

OKDKY. Thanks. G.

OK - I'll give that a look. I'm just concerned about which oil will dry properly at this time of year. I've used Tung oil before, but doubt that would work well in the winter. G.

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1389100009' post='2329847'] They didn't - Geoff's bass was a Satellite. I bought it off him & found the logo under what looked like an inch of black Hammerite under the headstock! J. [/quote] I sit corrected!!!!! G.

Maple. G.

Stockholm or Tru oil? Don't like the unfinished feel. G.

Some were pretty decent (diMarzio pups etc) others pure crap. If you've found a good one, take it seriously. If it's the neck-thru, check out that there is still adjustment there. I had one and the bridge had to be rebated into the body to get a low action. G.

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1369606087' post='2090886'] I remember Columbus basses as cheap and nasty Jazz copies, but saw one a couple of weeks ago in natural finish which was definitely solid wood. It is possible that it was a Columbus neck on a different body, but the owner seemed sure it was all original. [/quote] Mate of mine had a clear finish Jazz back in the 70's. Defo solid wood & a nice neck - bound with blocks. Looked great & played quite well. G.

Back in the 60's we put the screws back in..... G.

67 today & looking for a band as The Blues Devils has folded. I've been playing since I was 13 (pre-Beatles it ws The Shadows...) Yes, lugging the gear becomes the problem. I have a PA I can't even pick up..... G.

The metal 'thing' *is* the pre-amp. I had a Hohner Pro JJ that was exactly the same. G.

I'd put your Retrovibe in a SUB & replace the pup with a Seymour Duncan SMB-4A, wired via a 3 pos mini switch for parallel/single/series and you're in MM hog-heaven. In the long run, that's my aim. G.

I had a TRB1005 Fretless, which was lovely in every way - beautifully finished & engineered and the equal of at least 90% of the proprietory models on themarket. My prob with it was the 35" scale was throwiing my 34" muscle memory intonation off just enough to make me have to concentrate on it rather than the music. G.

A SUB with a Retrovibe preamp & a Seymour Duncan SBM-4A or -5A depending on string countage.... Pretty much original Stingray at 1/3 of the cost - can put a 3 pos mini switch for parallel/single/series too. G.

[quote name='fender73' timestamp='1388768543' post='2325886'] Ive just sold a Sterling Sub. Great all round bass but the preamp is far too hot on them. I would keep the Yammie! [/quote] The SUBs are pretty decent -I'm about to buy a 5er myself. The preamp is overly hot, though. There's a thread on Talkbass about this with a partial fix from a senior MM empoyee, plus, later on, a hack for the pre-amp to reduce its gain - or buy a Retrovibe pre amp. G.

@0175westwood29 - I think you were probably right not to order, as you'd struggle with string gauge for your tuning. @HowieBass - My particular reason for ordering is gone. I suspect there are a lot of people awaiting Bass VIs coming through and there may well be a glut offered s/h after a few weeks, devaluing the resale price. Hence, I think, I'm going to have the SUB V. Pup & pre-amp replacement - a couple of easy mods - give the full MM sound. Can't really go wrong. Thanks for the discussion points. Just needed some opinions to focus my thoughts. G.