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About tm486

  • Birthday 13/04/1992

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Total Watts

  1. I would quite like to give this a try whilst it's still in Newcastle if that's ok. I've never tried an all valve head, and I was impressed with the Red Fighter I tried when that was here for a trial.
  2. [quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1465323897' post='3067194'] There's no harm dropping Leszek an email if you want more specifics - he's been very helpful with his responses to me. As for price, I think 700EUR, but I guess that might change depending on your choice of case, etc. And you're welcome to borrow it when you're up here next. :-) [/quote] I should probably change my location, I'm permanently in Newcastle now. To be honest, if it's got two switchable mid controls I'm sure I'll be able to get a tone that I'm happy with. I'll PM you about borrowing it for a trial!
  3. [quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1465194282' post='3065902'] No - I don't need this much power. The R-400 is more than enough for me. :-) Leszek sent me the Red Fighter just to try out, and offer to others to try. [/quote] Sorry if I've missed this further up the thread, but how much do these retail for? I might be interested in trying this out at some point if that's ok. Do you know what frequencies the two switchable mid controls are set at?
  4. I was allowed to start another instrument when I started secondary school and narrowed it down to either saxophone or double bass because I loved the sound of each one. Stuck to it and I instantly progressed faster on double bass than I ever had on piano. Took up bass guitar when I went to uni as I couldn't fit a double bass in my uni halls and I instantly loved it. I still love the sound of an upright bass, but a bass guitar fits in more with my music preferences.
  5. I've got a pair of Sony MDR-1R's which I absolutely love. I bought them with the intention of using them pretty much only for practice, as I've never really liked wearing big over ear headphones when out and about, but I've hardly used my in ears at all since buying these, and my in ears are pretty decent. When I was looking, comfort was my main concern as if they were to be worn for a few hours practice at a time, I didn't want to get annoyed at having to wear them, luckily the sound quality from them is also brilliant. One thing I would say is that they sound much better when driven by a better source, they sound good from my iPod, but they sound excellent when connected straight to my CD player or Hi-Fi. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-MDR-1R-Ultimate-Over-Ear-Headphones-Black/dp/B00974PZ9G £150 from amazon.
  6. tm486

    Carvin BX1600

    I've got a BX500 which I'm really happy with. It's very light and more than loud enough for me. It's a very clean amp and you would struggle to get any overdrive without an external pedal if this matters to you. As Count Bassy has said, I can't really notice any difference with the tube in or out. I picked mine up second hand and can't fault it for the price. When I bought it it was meant as a temporary amp, but it's certainly staying for now. I've only used it twice live without PA, but it easily filled the venue, albeit fairly small.
  7. Hi, I'm based in heaton, where are you based? Cheers, Tom
  8. I've got a large cardboard box that my new gigbag was shipped in from Thomann. Free to whoever can collect. Cheers, Tom
  9. Gator GSR-2U rackbag in brand new condition. Ordered from Thomann by mistake so I thought I'd offer it here at a reduced price before returning it and paying the postage. It's a 2U rackbag with a separate laptop sleeve. There is a hole between the Rackmount space and the laptop sleeve so you can have the laptop connected to whatever is mounted. It's a decent quality bag, I just ordered the wrong one. It's got all the original packaging, I just opened it, saw that it was the wrong one, and put it back in the packaging. Ideally looking for collection from Newcastle, but as I have all the packaging, I can post it within the UK at a cost of £5. [attachment=172436:GSR-2U.jpg] [attachment=172437:GSR-2U_8_P1.jpg] I've attached stock photos because it literally is brand new, but I can take real photos if required. Cheers, Tom
  10. I collected a Schroeder 21015 from Mark yesterday. He was kind enough to hold the cab for me even though I couldn't collect it for about 3 weeks and the transaction went really smoothly. The cab was exactly as described and there was really good communication throughout the whole deal. Really good guy to deal with. Cheers Mark
  11. Thanks Balcro, that's fantastic. So any of the drivers should work in that cab, just ideally in matching pairs. I think for the moment, assuming the tweeter was the cause of the nasty noise, I'm going to continue to use the cab with the current drivers, being careful to listen to any signs of struggling. I haven't actually turned it up very loud yet because if I turned the amp master past about 2 or 3, the sound which prompted me to post here occurred. I'm 99% sure that the sound I heard was not due to driver failure, but I'll test that at my next rehearsal. I think when I can afford to, I'll replace the OEM unit with a Celestion BL10-200x because that seems like the cheapest solution. I think the only way to find another OEM unit would be to buy another cab, which would make replacing the driver pointless unless I can find a cab for spares/repairs. Thank you very much again for the response charts and checking to see whether the drivers will work in the cab. Tom
  12. Thanks for the reply Lawrence. I think for the moment at least, I'm going to have to just disconnect the tweeter and see how that effects things. I don't think eminence make the original driver any more, but in their email to me, they said that the Delta-10A was their most similar stock item, the specs of which very closely match the BL10-200. Looking at the table I made, specifically looking at Fs, Qts and Vas, the Legend B102 and the Beta-10CX seem to be the closest matches. How close do these values have to be for two drivers to work? Assuming I cannot find a driver that is similar enough to the stock driver, would the best thing to do be to model the cab with original driver specs in WinISD and then compare other drivers to get the most similar response? I'm going to try the cab out at next rehearsal with the tweeter disconnected, and see what it sounds like. If either driver is about to give up, am I likely to hear it struggling/distorting before it actually does? I generally play with a clean sound, so I should be able to listen out for any distortion. Thanks again, Tom
  13. [quote name='geoffbyrne' timestamp='1391640623' post='2359768'] Try putting the cab on its back & running at volume - the idea being that if a cable was rattling against a cone, then putting it on its back might make it hang away from the speaker. G. [/quote] Hi I did think this might be it, but when I took the drivers out, there is very little slack in the wires, certainly not enough for it to be rattling against the cone. I think I might have another idea of what it could be, having played around with just about everything, I've noticed that the tweeter control knob on the 2x10 does nothing, and it feels a lot looser than the one on the 4x10 which works perfectly. I'm thinking that there might be a problem with the crossover which is sending a full range signal to the tweeter or something. Is this possible? I'm going to try disconnecting the tweeter to see if that solves it. Is there any risk with this? Will disconnecting the tweeter have any real effect on the impedance of the cab? Thanks in advance, Tom
  14. [quote name='Balcro' timestamp='1391611322' post='2359187'] 1. The basic internal dimensions of the cabinet. 2. The combined frontal area of the slotted port openings. 3. The depth of the slot - how far back the slotted opening extends. [/quote] Thanks balcro, this is really helpful. 1. The internal dimensions are 350h x 545w x 300d (mm) 2. The combined area of the ports is 4200mm^2 3. The depth of the port is 165mm [quote name='flyfisher' timestamp='1391618860' post='2359324'] I'd be surprised if mismatched drivers would result in a 'rattle'. Poor sound perhaps, but not a rattle. If the drivers have been removed/replaced/tampered with then I'd suspect something is loose. I appreciate you've checked everything but there's a lot of energy vibrating around a well-driven cab. Were the screws (into wood) easy to remove? Could be a bad sign. Might be worth replacing them with the next size up (diameter, not length) for a tighter fit. Nuts and bolts? Try some threadlock. Try it with the front grille removed altogether. Just a process of elimination really. [/quote] Yea, I only checked to see whether the drivers were the same because I noticed the difference when I was searching for the rattle. The cab sounds good to my ears, it's just this annoying sound I need to find and sort out. I've tightened everything up, quite a few screws turned a quarter of a turn or so, I'd be surprised if this could cause a rattle, but I've tightened them up anyway. The screws into the wood were pretty strong, tightening them up again I could put a lot of force into them and they wouldn't budge further, so I think they are ok. I think if the sound is still there next rehearsal I'll have to go through a thorough process of elimination, but hopefully tightening everything up might have sorted it out already. Thanks for your responses guys, Tom
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