BassBod

Different flavours..but not that far apart. Just turn off the enhance knobs on both...they really don't need them....or maybe 10-15% of whatever they do. Same goes for the tweeters in the cabs - if they are turned full up it can sound pretty unpleasant. I think from memory the SWR power amp design seems to run hotter than the Eden, but they all get pretty hot at louder volumes.

Best gig I ever saw was JB with the Norman Beaker band (plus Dick H-S) in the mid 80's. Thanks for the review - I avoided seeing him recently, just because he looks so old now, and I'd rather remember the two gigs I saw 20 odd years ago. But you've changed my mind, I really should go see him again while he's still gigging.

You're a brave man Oli.........

If its going to wear flats, then I wouldn't - provided it plays ok with a medium/high action. Otherwise I'd get it re-fretted (and have the fingerboard checked over for level at the same time). That's the sort of problem I like.

I used one a few years ago. First - you've got to like the "graphite sound". Its bright, hard and brittle...unforgiving of sloppy playing...but also immediate and full. When you fit the neck you have to drill into the heel for the mounting screw holes. Its a thin moulding of epoxy with a hollow core, and you must countersink the holes to stop it cracking. It also kills a drill bit very fast and you must must must use the correct bit size for the screw they provide - there is no second chance (I doubt you could plug and re-drill, as there is pretty much nothing to plug). Same goes for the tuner mounting. They are well made, sound good (if you like it). Mine arrived with very level frets and a well cut nut.

I'm puzzled..how does wearing your pants around your neck help protect your bass, when you're in the cabin and the bass is in the hold?

I think you may have just stumbled on the answer.....the never ending quest for tone....and the ultimate cure for GAS. Pre-something.

I've also been having issues with one recently - the newer wooden type (rather than copper). When placed under the bridge foot it seems to make the bridge tip forward and lift the feet off the top, as mentioned on the Eminence quote above. Take it away, and the bridges (I've tried two now) seem happy to sit still and stay in full contact with the top. My best guess is the wooden case is a bit thicker/less forgiving than the copper version? Any ideas welcome!

Protec Contego - should fit (look it up first) and fairly cheap (from Thomman)

I really like my Sadowsky PJ. Its the "best" PJ I've ever played or owned...and believe me, I spent years with a great vintage Fender mongrel. A few things set it apart for me - pickups that work together well, no single coil hum, the J pickup sounds like a good J. The P sounds like a good P. The circuit is fantastic on gigs, but doesn't sound as hyped up as most active basses. The fret work is truly wonderful, and the truss rod is easily adjustable, and reacts as you want it to. It also looks like a Fender so I don't get funny looks because I turn up with a sculptured work of art for a wedding gig. It seems to me that Sadowsky has simply applied years of learning in set up and repair, to what he feels most players want from a Fender bass. And he's done it very well. Yes, they are expensive, like many other good instruments..but they are also not made/assembled in large factories. I couldn't/wouldn't buy one new, but I'm very grateful to the BassChatter who traded mine. Thanks again.

So how did it go???

I've owned two Wals, and although both necks were playable to me, over time the chunckiness became an issue, combined with the weight/balance (these were Pro '78 and Custom'84 versions). My Alembic ownership is limited to Epics (4 and 5 string). Fantastic round neck profiles, actually quite big but don't feel it. The 5 string was too heavy for me, but the 4 string is a keeper. I like the simple treble/bass/pan electronics, but I would like to try one with filters one day...just so I feel grown up! I'd imagine the weight has to be judged bass by bass - and same with the original short scale "Stanley" shape. It may balance better on a heavier bodied bass?

I played a gig with him a few years ago - great fun! Especially when he gets you trading fours with him..... I'm sure you'll have a great time.

We've got a lovely John Marlowe electric here doing nothing ..... pm if you're interested?

I think Thomastik Superalloys have slightly smaller ones, and maybe Pyramid. I know I had trouble a while back with them slipping though a Fender bridge with oversize holes. That was fun.

Give it some time, and try out in different circumstances. I've got the same with two great bits of gear - Alembic F2B preamp and SWR Goliath II cab. Both are great..but used together you get a double mid scoop at low volumes that sounds lifeless and hollow. Turn things up to gig volume and it improves, add a bit of "eq defeat" knob turning and it really all works wonderfully. I find a lot of modern cabs are much more responsive through the upper mids, whereas older cabs (or those "voiced" that way) seem to have the upper mids toned down. Just think about the old Trace slap switch - it was a mid removal really?

I'll be awaiting some details on the Acme cab...but for starters, how much hassle was it importing direct from Acme? And how do the "extras" work out these days (carriage, import taxes etc)?

Is the B10 the one with the spike? If so, its got a lot more in common with an upright (heavily built, thicker top) than most acoustic bass guitars. Must be fun! The other option is putting a magnetic pickup in. I've never tried, but I have seen it done in some very loud settings. Trouble is, it starts turning into a normal bass guitar sound.

From my experiences....I'd say that sounds just right. They can work in very, very quiet settings but generally howl with very little provocation. I think its the thin and resonant top. My Martin is better, but only because its a thin body (so has even less acoustic volume!). If you want useable volume I think you have to go the Turner Renaissance/ Rob Allen route - these are electric instruments, but built to sound "acoustic" when amplified. Good one for trying though.....I loved the Eko I had about 15 years ago.

I'd have to go for carbon dating. Actually...I'd have three or four basses made by the Fender Custom shop vintage master-elves...or whatever they call themselves now. And I'd drink the change.

wouldn't touch it....all original can be such an interesting phrase these days.

Thanks Alex - that last comment explains about 20 years of faffing around with bass cabs.

An 8" Barefaced....hmm that's got me interested!