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BassBod

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by BassBod

  1. Happy Jack - the decal is only a waterslide, sitting on top the finish and will easily come off with a drop of water and a fingernail (and leave no damage whatsoever). No need to wait until it goes to a luthier...do the right thing! Edit - then post a photo?
  2. Calling Mr Foxen.........
  3. [quote name='stevie' post='1194397' date='Apr 10 2011, 11:01 AM']I think you might find the band's manager has something to do with that.[/quote] Is there something we should know??.....was MK perfectly happy with his first borrowed short-scale, and all the rest was just to keep his manager quiet???
  4. I had a similar experience. Owned a SSI and liked it (but not really enough to keep..too modern sounding for most of my work) and later got a SSI fiver. Really didn't get on with it - always sounded a bit feeble, and felt oversized. Moved it on after a few weeks. The SSII seems to be my Warwick..lovely woods, great design, but probably still too modern sounding for me!
  5. You wouldn't listen to it at home....on a sunny spring Sunday morning.....
  6. Solid body EUB - if you really want to play in loud situations its the only way. But even then they will still assume its you when anything within a ten mile radius of the stage honks, squawks or even farts....
  7. A preamp output to a good passive DI is the most fool-proof solution I've found. If your amp has an effects loop, then just a good DI in the loop - it won't "do" anything but send your preamp signal to the desk. Does that help??
  8. Try and get imperial measurement for anything of American origin. I got some identical replacements from Thomman for a Bag End cab....they almost fit, but the screw holes are just slightly out of place for a good fit. My guess is they are made to a metric design spec rather than imperial.
  9. I'd expect it to be a bit splinter-prone? I'd just give the frets an extra bit of heat and a bit more time to cool/contract before pulling? I've never done one, but I have defretted on old dark rosewood board that was quite flaky and more heat/cooling time did the trick after the first two frets were pulled. Good luck
  10. Yes, see above. But maybe try steaming it out a bit first? Won't get rid of it completely but will probably give you a smaller dent to fill.
  11. Wow...Mr Bassman wins for me. Three mega minis and a fretless Steinberger. Obviously, its not a competition, but .....
  12. I'd love it...but funds are too tight! If its still around in a few weeks......
  13. I seem to remember that (apart from being slightly bigger) re-chargables also never charge up to a full 9v? They only got to around 7v and give pretty short service, so need to be changed more often. I used them in my headphone amp (two last around 10 hours = expensive) and found they lasted about half as long....but it was worth it for that application. I wouldn't put them in an active bass, even if they fitted.
  14. Now don't go putting him off..I'm here counting my pennies..chink..chink...may take a while, but I'm up to £12 .56p already...so keep HJ busy and remind him that all really good Pbasses have to be sunburst, I read that somewhere on the internet. Have a bump while I'm looking for some more cash. Won't be long....
  15. Yes..tis a good 'un. If I didn't have the Sadowsky....... Best P neck I've played!
  16. Look up the K&K systems that Bob Gollihur sells. Two plates that stick under the bridge plate, and a socket. I think they are the same as the DTAR soundspots..and probably a bit cheaper?
  17. Well said Mr Beedster....bring back the rat fur....does that make me old-fashioned??
  18. Sounds good! The one that always impressed me was David Friesen's EUB - no idea who made it..but look him up on youtube. The tuners on the tailpiece are a work of art. Any plans on which strings? I'm guessing they will need to be designed to fit the headstock?
  19. PM'd....
  20. I'd suggest the programable Sansamp - gives you the ability to set different levels (or sounds) for two basses...or have a mute setting etc It can have a dramatic effect on your sound, but it doesn't have to if you set it to taste. Also, when you find engineers that won't use your amp's DI (because "its noisy".."sounds crap" etc etc) they will often agree to use a Sansamp..mainly because they recognize it. I wouldn't carry mics and stands. Worth adding another cab..or getting a used 4x10 for those backline only gigs. If you are traveling a lot, consider leaving your current cab at home and having one living in the van. Enjoy! but don't forget the earplugs...
  21. You could get me in a lot of trouble! A Redface 350? Is it in really good condition, by any chance???? I've got this SWR power amp see.........
  22. Welcome Lewis! Thought you'd get here eventually! Don't forget to look around and see what Rics of that age usually go for.... Send me a PM (personal message) if there's anything you need help with?
  23. I've got a spare somewhere that I've never used, I'll see if I can find it. Would a photo help..or have you still got the original? Also. may be on the SWR site in their "vintage products" section....
  24. Great cabs..if you can be arsed to move them! The tweeter protection is indeed a car bulb - Eden did the same thing for years. Actually, I seem to remember that Eden built the early Goliaths for SWR..but don't know when they stopped (version I or II?). I'm glad that this one was so far away, or I would have had to buy it just to fulfill my lifelong desire to do at least one gig with a pair of them. Wouldn't go down well in the small restaurant I played in last night.
  25. You'd better start lifting those weights...90lbs is a real man's cab. I never use mine, unless I've got some help. I blame Barefaced.
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