BassBod

Have a look at the Alembic site - they seem to re-attach severed heads with no problems, partly because the glue joint often gives in an accident, and this makes for a clean break.

As a former (very happy) owner of these cabs...... I'm also very fed up of couriers damaging things, so I try very hard not to use them. EA are very good at service, but their drivers are pretty special items. A generic replacement probably doesn't exist, but I'd ask Mr Barefaced Alex Claber for some thoughts, as he will know what is obtainable in the UK and what the trade offs will be for various drivers in a transmission line cab. The lighter replacement EA driver is a good option (my only issue with these cabs was the weight) but it obviously costs a lot. BUT - before you do anything else, check all the connections on the driver and the input panel. If the cabs been thrown around enough to damage the driver I'd expect to see real evidence of damage on the outside of the cab/packaging. Best of luck

I've used Kent Armstrongs in a few basses, but the handmade versions. Very good pickups, and I remember Kent saying that the WD Korean versions weren't very different. Have a look at Carl Thompson basses and you'll normally see them (Korean imports from WD, not made by Kent). Its worth trying them out in both series and parallel wiring, as they sound quite different.

I'll nominate the Warwick Thumb - such a beautiful looking design, and great woodworking...compromised by heavy weight, peculiar ergonomics and floor diving headstock. Unless you wear it under your chin. Should have been headless. I have seen one, nailed to the wall in a German club, like a sacrificial offering. But it wasn't built as a headless.

Nothing vulgar....I'm at that two kids and skint stage of life (seems to be going on a bit!) but I am looking forward (hopefully) to such times ahead. Please.

I use a cheaper Radial, the ProI (green box, cheaper transformer) but it sounds fine to me. Main thing is its simple and tough, and will be forgiving if it gets a wallop along the signal chain. The one for sale here is better, by reputation, and looks like a good deal. The only way to know, of course is to hear them! I think my experiences with active DI's have all been running on battery or phantom power - mains powered units are probably more tolerant? But the sound of a DI running out of headroom through a big PA is not pleasant..or something I want an audience to hear, again!

I've used almond oil (from the supermarket cookery section) with success. It is to stop the unfinished wood from drying out too much, rather than cleaning. Its also a good idea to condition/clean the fingerboard a few days ahead of a string change. Put the old ones back on, let the neck dry for a day or two...then out your new strings on and hopefully the oil won't deaden them straight away. Although, some people don't like fresh strings...or so I've read on the interweb.

That will be fine provided the DI can take a real line level signal. My experience is that many active DI's will clip, even though the specs look ok. I do the same thing but with a passive DI box, (and "hot" output from Alembic or SWR preamps) and it works fine. The other option is look for a line out or link jack out of the power amp - that may have a lower output level?

Second vote for Brandoni - they used to do unfinished or sunburst. Good quality, and a good "fender" fit, if there is such a thing. Give them a call? I'd also suggest Wesley Steed...although I understand he's a busy boy these days, so it might be a higher budget/longer timescale than you'd like. But its going to be an improvement over the original.

Cafe Walter..bit spendy these days though. Very clear and clean, and does a nice job with the iPod.

EA500 - no fan, never gets warm. EA Micro has fan (always on)...doesn't seem to get warm either...but I guess it will, or it wouldn't have the fan?

I've found trading is far more effective, and better value. Once instruments (even highest end) get to a few years old their relative value tends to level out..and some less desirable ones gain some hindsight value. All good for a musician of limited means!

Well, I've got a dirty 12" midget....but I wouldn't use it in a public place. I think that Nick must be a bad influence.

That looks like you'll just be ok as it is. The problem is that when its stretched and under tension, it may creep further round the tuner post, and that's when they can break. One low tech solution is to put a few small washers by the ballend, but you may scratch the body doing it..and you'll only get 2-3mm extra. Send the photo to Rotosound and get their opinion, before you tune it up!

I've used the EA500, with Clifton EUB (Realist fitted) and EA cabs for about 6-7 years - no problems. The Clifton does have a wallop to the low end, but I hardly use any eq and I certainly never use the "deep" preset button. My best guess is that you are boosting the lows and running the input gain fairly low and the output high? Maybe try upping the input and running the output as low as you can? The EA amps have a much more gradual approach to gain settings - I usually run the input around 75% and the output rarely goes beyond 50% (until recently I was using one / a pair of EA CXL 1x10's). But, as you increase the output beyond 50% it does really carry on getting louder...unlike most other amps I've used, which turn into fuzz boxes and heaters instead of getting any louder. I thought I had blown the speaker on my CXL 112...but I used it again recently and it sounds fine. I was very disappointed that EA can't repair or replace the driver in those cabs any longer, so I went Barefaced midget. Early days, but so far its working well. Another cab I'm very impressed with is the Bag End 1x15. Old fashioned and heavy(ish) but small and very musical. Used it on a loud bass guitar gig last week and it coped remarkably well.

You realize, of course, that we need to see pictures. I've never seen a CT in the UK, although there are rumours......

That is [b]a lot [/b]of money for a bass.