bertbass

I thought that acrylic was the standard option with telex on request.

Only damage ever caused to our equipment is by our drummer. Not a lot we can do about that unless we sack the drummer. Now there's a thought!

40 - 50. Not bad as I'm getting on for 66.

Something like this? http://www.flightcasehardware.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=875

Blue speakers = better wood and built in Britain and black speakers = cheaper wood (chipboard) and not built in Britain. Probably in China. I've got a pair of Mag 4x10s and they sound fine but are a bit on the heavy side.

I'm not a great Mackie fan either.

I used Rotosound short scale strings when I had mine. I found it difficult to find anything else.

How about naming it Arthur?

Personally, I'd go with the acrylic. Hard wearing and if it gets chipped, very easy to touch up invisibly. Tolex always comes unstuck eventually along the joins regardless of make of equipment or type of glue. IMHO of course.

The wood used in the construction of a cab is not important it's how much the cab vibrates. The energy used to make the cab vibrate is wasted energy, energy that should be used to make sound. 18mm ply has become the norm for cab construction because it's easy to make and you don't have to worry about bracing but you end up with a heavy cabinet. MDF is better from a vibration point of view but is even heavier and easily damaged and absorbs water quite well. A concrete cabinet would be perfect but not very practical. If you can brace a cabinet well so that there is no vibration then you can have it all, a light cabinet made of thinner material that performs brilliantly. Bill Fitzmaurice and Alex at Barefaced have done just that and while personal preference in sound plays a large part in the decision on what to spend your money on, no one can disagree that their products are some of the best you can buy or make.

+1

[size=4]The 4x10 and 1x15 are both getting the same thump but the thump is divided between all four speakers in the 4x10 so they all move less.[/size] [size=4][color=#333333]The cause may be that one side of the amplifier's (presumably) bipolar power supply is rising/falling before the other, causing DC offset at its output -- something like connecting a battery across the speaker's terminals. This is actually very common in solid-state amplifiers, even the more expensive ones. Some include circuitry to delay the connection of the speaker until the amplifier has stabilized.[/color][/size] [size=4][color=#333333]Your amp doesn't charge up over night, [/color]in fact it's the opposite, the power supply caps discharge. [/size]

Can't stand em!

Tennis elbow, that's bloody painful! Mine went away on it's own. Took a while though.

Go for it!

Dimplex heater? You were lucky!

Correct. O[color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]ne that has a shaft the same size as the cutting flutes, so the shaft can butt up against the template.[/font][/color] [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]Start off routing in the centre of the template without touching it then when the cutting flutes are below the template run the shaft against the template.[/font][/color]

If you search ebay for a template router bit you'll soon find what you'll need.

Laser cutting, mdf / ply or acrylic, gives the best finish of all without sanding and it's the right size.

You could then enter your pool of liquid acrylic for the Turner prize. You stand a good chance of winning!

Same as a blow torch / propane torch but burns hotter.

Or you could just use a MAP gas gun to flame polish the edges.

I use a headset mic so anything I reply gets heard by everyone. I try to make a joke out of it, seems to work quite well.

Overnight I believe.

Funny that should happen. Our guitarist uses one and it's stopped working a couple of times, the cure, put it the freezer. I'm not joking. Apparently the main chip locks up and freezing it makes it work again. It's free as well.