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As promised, a few rough FM clips (please forgive the crappy playing): QM Bass 01.mp3 QM Bass 02.mp3 QM Bass 03.mp3 QM Bass 10.mp3 QM Bass 14.mp3 QM Bass 18.mp3 QM Bass 19.mp3 QM Bass 21.mp3 QM Bass 23.mp3 QM Bass 24.mp3 QM Bass 25.mp3 QM Bass 28.mp3 QM Bass 29.mp3 QM Bass 33.mp3

Just my Markbass 2x10 and my Mesa Subway 800. The foldback was very good.

Nobody cares….

When I was on the circuit touting my new music band, we regularly opened to an empty room in small venues across the UK. We had some amazing moments without all that crowd participation/interference. edit 😀

trust me, no one will ask. They just wont. No one cares enough or notices stuff like this

Thank You. So my memory is not that Bad.

I wanted a better Midi footpedal than the M-Vave Chocolate so was looking around and stumbled over the PedalinoMini range of DIY pedals. You can see them here https://github.com/alf45tar/PedalinoMini The designer uses a small 32bit System on a Board, so similar to an Arduino, has done some very good software and it looked like it was well supported. If it's GitHub check how many recent releases it has, check the issues and see if the person responds and he does. So I ordered the parts from AliExpress for the 8 foot switch version and they turned up in less than a week. The LilyGo SoC is pretty good, a decent 1.9" display, wifi, bluetooth, what's not to like. I paid for the STL files ($14), downloaded them, printed them out on my 3d printer and immediately thought, I can do better than this. Simple things like he uses screws straight into plastic, this will last five or six fixings and then the plastic will shred and you have a case that has no means of attaching to the base. I also beefed up some of the supports, but to be fair, it was a pretty good design to start with. The instructions are very good, though the wiring diagram requires you to switch your brain around as you wire it from below, but the wiring diagrams are from above and below. Every single step needed to be tripled checked. The only major issues is that the shield you wire into is a point to point, so you then have to bridge the connections to the sockets. It's also very, very fiddly. However apart from one bit of wiring that’s almost impossible to see which joins two LED strips together, its pretty straightforward, but there's a lot of it and it has to fit into a small case. I printed off a mule to wire it into. As I got further and further into the wiring it got tighter and tighter. I then moved the mostly finished wiring into the new case I designed and printed in a rather nice Galaxy Black, basically black with tiny sparkles, who said glam rock was dead The purple tape is simple to hold the LED strips in place whilst I check everything is working. Once I'm happy, the wires and LED strips will be given a good seeing to with a hot glue gun. Somewhat suprising (as I'm a crap solderer), it worked almost first time. Only every second footswitch worked which seemed odd and not a soldering issue. It turns out I'd loaded the wrong firmware in and I think it defaulted to four footswitches rather than eight. Downloading the right firmware sorted that problem out. You need a Windows laptop to really get the initial setup done, but once you have the wifi connected, it works from a Mac and can be configured from there as it's on the wifi. The software seems very good, but I'm still trying to understand what it all does. I still have to put the battery and switch in, otherwise it is powered from the USB-C connector. A 18650 battery will apparently power it for 12 hours. It has wifi, bluetooth, MIDI over USB-C so lets see if I can make it all work with my ToneX and Mod Dwarf. You seem to be able to control a lot of things with it. For the cost of about £40 and one evening and one afternoon of soldering, it seems good value to me. I can't say much more until I've got it properly working. Rob

this is why I have a HW 4003. Half the price and twice as good as a Ric (IMO). I've played some nice Rics but I don't need to pay silly money these days

Exactly. I play DB and EUB in jazz groups from trios to big band and I also play in a bluegrass band and my 200W Traynor SB112 handles gigs with ease and has a DI out so it can be put into a PA at festivals or large venues and it is on stage as a monitor. It has served me well for several years, I guess if I played some other types of music (ie louder) I would use other equipment but my amp can be used at home and at gigs and rehearsals so is perfect for me, small light and a reasonable price...and it's made in Canada too.

Hmmmmmmmmm….. I mean, it’s an interesting idea but I’m going to reach out to Dingwall before making any purchases. Though to be honest, I only noticed the issue when I used a noise gate so is it worth attaching something like that to my headstock. Cheers though!

I have the perfect headstock decal for it. I bought it intending to put it on my Bitsa, but never did. It says Findus (in black and gold Fender script) Sea Bass. I might message the seller offering it to him.

Perhaps the seller is counting the strap as a string...

Even more strangely, the "Item specifics" on the listing for that, er, bargain, state Brand: Squier by Fender and Model: Classic Vibe '70s Stratocaster HSS.