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Yep! I actually did. I didn’t know it was 32” until I asked. Felt quite comfortable and sounds great even down to low ‘B’. Balance was great for a headless (didn’t feel body biased) on the strap. Then the look…….👀 a stunner! You won’t be disappointed in any way. (now if my storage and wallet (and wife!!) were still on good terms with me, you’d be in for a battle🏋️‍♂️)

I'm still confused by folk mistaking the status updates section for private messaging.

Not withstanding the fact that I haven't worn trousers with enough surplus material to "flap" for over 45 years now, I think had I ever been in a band that required me to play at volumes that produced a noticeable shift of air from my rig I'd be even deafer than I am now! I've owned a big rig in the past, although it was made out of smaller component parts than the example for sale, but each of the three individual items was still a two person lift for ease of moving, and without a road crew there is no way I would contemplate having one again. Then again if I was in a band successful enough to be able to employ a road crew I'd be playing places where even a big rig would be an irrelevance. From experience something like the rig for sale needs to be running close to max volume to get the benefit of the power amp valves and therefore is too big for most small venues, and due to the poor dispersion characteristics of the cab in bigger venues will only work as a personal monitor so long as you are stood directly in front of it. Your band mates will still need to have your bass in their foldback and you'll find that the moment you are not stood directly in front of it you'll get more from the foldback than you do from your rig. And that's if you're not using IEMs. Add to the fact that very few PAs will mic up bass cabs of any size and, if they did, a close mic on one driver is not the same sound as the full cab from a couple of feet away, so what your audience hear will have little to do with the rig behind you. I'm now a Helix user and I only use amp and cab models as a special effect, as IMO most of the time they make my bass sound worse, which re-enforces what I have thought for a long time is that instrument amplification for bass guitar is the weak link in the signal chain. These days I straight into the PA from the Helix and it sounds great both on stage and FoH. I have plenty of dirt when I need it but I can also sound super clean if I need that too. Most of the time I'm somewhere in between these too extremes. Finally if you need "The way they pulse the air, the harmonics, the bloom and the trouser flapping." for the right atmosphere, then I would suggest that the songs you are playing are not up to scratch.

Well, they haven't contacted me about it yet and I reckon that if they were that fussy / hard nosed about it, then EB would have wanted the old bridge first before the new one was delivered. I'm going to assume that if I hadn't heard anything by Christmas then I will look to offloading it in the new year. After that, if they come calling for it - tough! Should have been a bit more on the ball!

This on evilbay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177635234310?_skw=fretless+bass+guitar&itmmeta=01KBQ1RSNA2SAKE57B7HM3YPPA&hash=item295be29206%3Ag%3AikQAAeSwkbto7nWi&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cB4xQ2Uk9MV%2FwPEzUPbdX5OGVXsyzO1vpAOf9WBRoX1kNgng3x98jHb3SPLnqZ2%2BxgX8%2FwQn1E2b4UN5sF9ugTZCEuy1lbm9VZFYRNvP7SYThcf%2F2XpY9S6xALNAeIIiccOchPHUSVPiqL6IqJ8sBGXr0Ig8u2CrGHirCiTWNavF5%2BwNfD9ZYJsvXLFZRB77FOOdohUiY9iZOcMmXIxh2E4o82j3yI46LfjV9Bj50Dex%2Bk%2FvAE%2BUd%2FKjkPiPRsEMs%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_ia4-HdZg&LH_ItemCondition=3000

So the tuners on my 76 P are a bit stiff and there is definitely some grinding going on. I stripped them down and gave them a good clean and lubed them with chapstick (recommended on a youtube vid as opposed to thin oil that can damage the wood/headstick finish. Whilst they are better they are still incredibly hard work. I dont really want to look at replacing them at this point with it being a vintage bass but of course it needs to be playable. Anybody got any useful tips that may help get them going a bit smoother/easier?

Thinking about it what I'm wanting* is: Some noticeable compression low down so when I dig in I can get my amp to overdrive but don't blow the roof off (see your comment above). Enough middle boost so dusty end widdles cut through. Add top end clarity to compensate for strings a tad past their best and bring out some clank if I go 'Entwhistle' or slappy. *a sub-editor who can type?

I had a RBX765a as my only bass when i was starting out about 20 years ago, It was certainly gig suitable and I played many gigs and a huge number of church services with it before i moved on to other instruments, i believe its still being played in church by the friend i traded it to. I even did a recording session with it and was complimented on it's tone by the engineer. The RBX range is a bit overlooked in my opinion, they're good instruments, well made with decent pickups and hardware and they sell for very low prices secondhand ( i think mine was £120 from a friend). people seem to gravitate to the Ibanez SR range instead which seems to have better availability. I would happily gig with one again. Matt

Clicking the date or the "x replies" works for me in Chrome on Win 11, and in Chrome on an Android 16, so I guess it normally works.

Love the overall look of this, just not keen on the colour. If you put it down, how do you ever find it? May something that Hotblack Desiato from Disaster Area may find interesting.

IMO Markbass amps do sound good. IMO if you are hesitating and haven't a clear answer in your head, then you don't need it.

A 15 ½ hour used tobe a leap of faith, but the K1 Max is, so far, very reliable. The slicer is basically a version of Cura. These days a 'mesh' is printed to support undersurfaces. The tree supports came loose with a gentle press and the finish on the supported surfaces needs no finishing.

I had an RBX270FL and it was a great bass. I had it for years and only sold it when I fell into the ACG rabbit hole and bought a fretless bass from Alan (that I still have).

You are quite right, but C is more commonly labelled "string spacing". Beware that these Gotoh 206 (aka Pro) bridges are made out of a kind of fragile zamac alloy, so don't overtighten the screws, or it will break. So first, slightly unscrew the A ... screw (again don't unscrew it too much or it will come out and you'll have to remove the bridge to put it back in place as the nut underneath is a moving part...), adjust your intonation (heigh and spacing if needed) with the usual screw at the back of bridge. Then tighten A again, that's it. There was a thread here a few years ago: