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Cue the discussion about what's a Watt, etc.

The relay is I'm sure part of the output soft start circuit and not the fan circuit. I have one of these and the fan has never come on ever, not even when I've used the amp very hard. I think the amp modules in these are stripped down budget versions of the Powersoft DigiMod class-d modules, though I can't be sure. I'd like someone to tell me otherwise! I've asked Powersoft and they aren't sure either. If the schematic for the Digimod units are anything to go by, the fan should activate when the unit reaches approx 50C. My amp is eighteen years old, so in class-d terms that's a long while ago and even the Digimod versions are now obsolete. As has been mentioned, as long as they don't get heavy use, the chunky heat sink seems to cope well. They make nice home and studio amps as they are very clean but warm sounding. I've never had mine cut out at all. I think from Ashdown's perspective I can understand there isn't a lot they can do to repair these, and replacement modules don't seem generally available. Faulting surface mount tech like this is beyond my capabilities, and I expect very time consuming for folks who do have the capabilities. It's the old chestnut of being easier to swap an entire unit, than fix it. Throwaway technology. If you can find a used and working Digimod 500/1000 module, I believe the original PSAMP350 modules will swap out easily with them.

I think that's true - I've had the same happen with a LaBella G string, so not just something that can afflict budget strings. Funnily enough, I just picked up a jazz bass with the HB's on, and the A string is slightly chorusy - I'd assumed this was my setup, perhaps it could be the string. If you're ordering enough from Thomann to get free shipping, by all means try a set, but I wouldn't be paying 10 quid shipping on a 12 quid set of strings 🙂

Hmmm - must've been a screw loose.

Thank you for the heads up. I've ordered a set of Classics to try ...

Thinking about this is making me wonder why EBMM bother to even gloss the headstock really. My Ray35 is unfinished all the way from headstock down and I can't see anything wrong with that.

Some good advice above. I'm a fan of mini array plus sub' PAs, but, as always, quality costs. The better ones work very well and their advantages (for me, at any rate) include resistance to feedback, even coverage and clarity, as well as relative compactness and lightness. Some do, as Bill points out, require you to place the sub(s) beneath the columns, which can cause issues. Others, like my Fohhn system, enable you to mount the columns on stands and place them and the sub(s) wherever you like. When I bought my system, I was playing a lot of Irish and similar music - combinations of acoustic and electric instruments plus voices - so I particularly wanted clarity. I auditioned a number of stick and sub systems (not easy, as few if any dealers stock a range of them, so a bit of travel and time was involved). Mine sounds like a giant hi-fi - very clean and clear. It isn't a bass monster (I appreciate that additional subs could address that issue) and it wouldn't have been my choice it if I played loud rock music and ran a lot of drums and bass through the PA. It will handle them happily at reasonable levels, though. Two subs (with onboard power amplification) and two columns set me back £7k about ten years ago. So adding a mixer, mics, etc will put the cost of the PA over £10k. Not cheap for something that gets used mainly in pubs and smaller venues, but it's been uber reliable and, being made in Germany rather than China, can be repaired should the worst happen. Try to audition a few and don't buy on the basis of recommendation. In the end, you pays yer money and takes yer choice.

I ran Matrix poweramps for years, highly recommended. The XT800 is a 1U two channel rack unit, 400w a side of 800w bridged. This unit is £650...not cheap, but it's an absolute belter of a poweramp. We live in times where we're of the allusion that we need these ridiculous levels of wattage, when we really don't. 800w is more than enough. 400w should be enough. I rarely ran mine above 30% in bridged mode.

out in the fields - gary moore

A pair of LD Maui 11's will be in excess of £1k (would you also need to buy a desk?), it would be interesting to see how they faired V's a pair of budget 8/10" (RCF310 can be had new pretty cheap) and a little desk (unless you have one?). I think one factor that influenced my decision to go point of source was that with the addition of a single smallish sub you can step up a few levels; whereas to upgrade/step up from stick arrays you need more of the same and I'm not sure if that works equally well? Added to which as a bassist and part time guit-fiddler, I can take a single PA cab and use it as my personal monitor; more flexible than an array might be. However, that is just my circumstances!

If you're looking for the VTBass to shape your tone, always run these into an effects return if you have one; this'll bypass your amplifier's preamp stage/tone controls and just utilise the poweramp. At the very least, if you need to go in the front, you'd need to try and determine your amplifiers flat settings (this isn't always going to be 'everything at noon'). Thing is, at a very basic level, there's no 'when needed' element going on here; you're either using the VTBASS to shape your tone or you're not.

Yeah I think assigns are great for doing more nuanced things but scenes that let you batch multiple changes at once would be really useful.

I'm thinking of ordering a set but have noticed a number of complaints in the Thomann reviews about rattling A strings. Anyone had experience of this? I'm wondering if this might be luck of the draw given the price and if it's worth taking a chance. Thanks.

Don't Leaf Me This Way - The Communards

Subbed as I am curious where this goes. My new country band has access to a pair of LD Maui 11 arrays, we'll test them out at a technical rehearsal but I am a little dubious. It's not just that they're column arrays, it's that they are 'sensibly priced' column arrays.

These days, even forever doesn't last as long as it used to 🙂

I did, and to me, these are equivalent to the boutique or Custom Shop models which sold for delirious money without any real explanation. Depending on the type of Jazz Bass tone you're after, the ToneRider Duke pickups could be a good option too. Check their website for the specs.

Leafy Meadows - John Paul Jones. (An absolute banger, BTW. )

Surely just a bit further, between D and D#.

A work of art!

In reality I will still keep this in mind as I really need to focus on musical skills and not musical gear! Thanks for having me

I place it above lead guitar 😉

I remember when this was on here because I have the bolt-on Broadneck version as well as a through neck Broadneck Streamer Stage One. Wouldn't be without either of them. I had to get to know the Thumb ergonomics but once it clicked...

Massive T2 fail on an epic scale! At least all that new non-bass gear might distract you from failing T1...