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I lived with a bunch of Boro-lads for about 4 years - all that "was us fookin wentin or fookin gannin man" sort of rubbed off on me and I occasionally tag it on the end of a sentence. It's not maaan, though!

Sub Zero (29) litters his speech with it. I remember it being in vogue in the 70s, along with flares. I'd rather have the flares.

My band released our third and final single ahead of our second album coming out on Friday 26th September. This was a fun one to write and record.

From @SimonK, not the OP.

I do like the tone controls, simple layout and overall retro look. £999 is good for a Mesa bass amp. My Walkabout combo cost me about £1500 quid in 2008, and the Big Block 750 I really wanted at the time was £1800 which is more expensive than any of the current heads in 2025. This is very much the Mesa amp I would be looking at if I was going to get another one, unless they release a class D Big Block...

You might even be able to use the existing JAN screws as it looks like you have a bit of clearance on them. You could easily check by seeing if the D string would fit into the G string slot and so on.

When did the 'one rack unit' requirement come in..? The original brief was for a pedal, no..? A mini-mixer comes close to that, and it just as simple to set up and use, I think.

Reeling’ in the yEars - Steely Dan

It has, but Mesa are a different breed and these are all built in the USA (not that it is a big deal really as any country can make a great amp). For 999, I think that is reasonable. I expected more. I am interested in this.

All the slots that those grub screws go into are the same size. re. a tech - you will need to set the bass up for the new tension, tuning, intonation but the one thing you've not considered is that you'll need a B string bridge saddle or the saddle you have widening BUT I'm aware that some B string thicknesses won't seat in the string ball end anchor but that might be solely down to your string choice.

Quite, my first thought was a normal mixer but it doesn't really work in the requirement for one rack unit. Or if it does then it doesn't leave much room for your fingers at least.

Okay … so , the remaining questions I have ; that means I purchase that , but would the E- A-D strings be a tight fit in the slots ? I assume that I purchase a 5 string set . plus, does that mean that in theory , I shouldn’t have to take thie bass to a tech after all ?

Boss ES-8 is the answer. Everything goes into its own loop and you can swap the order in the Boss unit that controls it all. You can set patches with different orders.

I've got a couple of truss rods to adjust and as I'm waiting for strings before I do one and I want to get some momentum before tackling the other, here are my truss rod adjustments from easiest to hardest. Headless bass with truss rod adjustment at the unheadstock end, generally a 4mm hex key - easy, but you need to know which way to turn it Truss rod wheel (why did Cort use that on the headless Space 4 and 5 when they could have put a 4mm adjuster at the other end of the neck?) Headed bass with uncovered adjuster at headstock end Hex key adjuster at body end (why did Ibanez use that on the headless EHBs?) Headed bass with covered adjuster at headstock end, with extra points if the adjuster requires a special tool (Pedulla, and their truss rod turns in the unconventional direction too) and the following sub-categories: Pivoting cover section (Ibanez SRF705, don't know about others) Tool-free removable cover section (Warwick) - just be careful not to lose that bit Truss rod cover held on with screws - bonus points for using multiple screws, the worst so far has been Esh with four (guess which bass I need to get a bit of momentum up for?) And finally, and I'm so glad I don't have any of these any more, the awful ones that you have to take the neck off to adjust It also helps to know which way to turn the truss rod. My Warwicks and Seis and the Pedulla all need the adjuster turning anticlockwise to tighten the truss rod (decrease relief), everything else is the other way. Any other truss rod adjustment types? I haven't included double truss rods as they're just two of the same, nor have I mentioned having to bend Rickenbacker necks in order to tighten the truss rod as I've never owned one so never had to perform that operation.

I expect Sandberg had a lawyers letter sometime ago.

Yep that's easy. As @tauzero has posted the pic and link; you simply buy one of those and put it where you present E string slot is, then move the E A D down one position.