All Activity

He’ll have lent on his fame and skipped the line the rest of us peasants are in.

Cry Me a River - Julie London

Did you find one in stock somewhere? Everywhere I have seen has a 3-4 month wait list now

Never a truer word written.

I saw one a while ago for £1300 on ebay! Was tempted to sell mine, but then I realised just how good it sounded in my punkyfunky band...

Given the lack of functional difference between the two I’d go with the Halon, as he’s replied

The philippe dubrieulle jazz bass I once played and missed out on. It was for sale in Wunjos maybe 15-20 years ago and never to be seen again. I check online occasionally just to see if it’s resurfaced but no such luck.

The Albridge is about as good a bridge as you can find for Musicmasters, but yeah AmpShop can be tricky with shipping. If I ordered from them again, I’d pay a little extra and ask for FedEx shipping, they normally use USPS which is a diabolically unreliable service. It’s worth emailing them first.

Mosrite. Rickenbacker 4005.

Good luck

They were the House PA and they did sound great. We use RCF's as our PA and they have also been fantastic

Roscoe Beck V in Candy Apple Red. (Maybe they only made two or something?) ☹️

I'm very happy with the one I bought off here last week. It feels slightly heavier than my Mustang but haven’t weighed to check. Also the bass sits naturally at a more horizontal position when I’m standing. Neither feature is a problem, though, that’s just observation. I’m not a ‘tinkerer’ and don’t change anything on an instrument unless repairs are needed. Have you changed anything, or kept it stock?

That’s very kind of you! I’m not a million miles away from Hereford but too far to justify it though I’m afraid. (Telford, Shropshire)

Sorry if this sounds too obvious, but does the battery need replacing?

2kW in reality heats my lounge. That's reality. Nobody needs a real 2kW. My real 250W amp with 4 ohm of cabs keeps up with enthusiastic drummers no problem.

Power rating is not a measure of how loud a given system will be. As I understand it, a general rule is that 10x Watts = 2x volume (with all other things being equal). So 1000W = twice as loud as 100W (all other things being equal). That's why a 50W amp seems surprisingly loud - I've had a 600W bass amp drowned out by a 50W guitar amp. The "all other things being equal" is a variable, however; as noted speaker efficiency comes into play, as does the number of speakers, amp Class A,B,D, valves vs tubes, and so-on. Now, on to the power rating of speakers and amps. The general standard is to rate in Watts RMS (root mean square), which is a calculation of a stylised continuous average power. Since there's a numbers game where bigger is better, some systems will be rated at peak power instead, which is perhaps 40% higher (1.4x). One or the other may be more relevant in some cases, or both may be worth considering. How to damage a speaker... Now, there are three factors which contribute to a speaker's power handling: How much current the wires which comprise the speakers coils can handle before they fail. How the impedance varies under load and frequency range. Whether the speaker cone hits the end of its travel and stops behaving as it should. If any of the above's limits are exceeded then damage is likely to ensure. However, note that things like distortion (intended or not) change the profile of the frequencies being sent to the speaker (distortion is generally the introduction of higher frequencies), which might add unexpected stresses to the speaker if it is not designed to handle it (eg. it doesn't have a crossover or low-pass filter). So, the Wattage numbers are not an absolute. As a general rule of thumb, if you want to protect your speakers it's a good idea to have speakers rated capable of handling the maximum output of the connected amps and not drive things flat-out. It's also an idea to have the speakers pointing at your listening devices (ie. your ears!) so you can hear them, rather than along the floor inaudibly flapping your flares. But it's all a bit complicated!

Glass Onion - You Know Who

Green Onions - Booker T & The MGs

Green Door - Shakin' Stevens

Front Door - Gregory Isaacs

Or a fretted piano?

Hi all, Now that I've finally managed to put down my newly-acquired Am Pro 2 Jazz (amazing!!!), I am circling back to my 75 Musicmaster project. It's still playable but rough enough to warrant the need to make some changes. I am happy overall with the neck (needs a buff, polish and waxing, fretboard will need de-greased and oiled), tuners (will de-gunk those), pickup and a few other bits but I will definitely be needing to completely redo the tone pot, input jack and bridge. Still debating as to whether or not I'll repaint it. A luthier in these parts is apparently very good at doing 60's and 70's Fender catalogue colours and I have always fancied the Daphne Blue look... Anyway, looking into bridges, I have happened across two viable options: 1: Halon Musicmaster bridge from Greece https://halonguitarparts.com/product/musicmaster-bass-bridge/ 2: Albridge Musicmaster bridge from Via Ampshop in the US https://www.ampshopbassexchange.com/product/albridge-parts-mms18-vintage-bridge-for-musicmaster-short-scale-direct-replacement/ Both look like excellent options. My question would be - has anyone had experience with either provider? I've heard great things about the AmpShop products but not-so-great things about communication, lead times and customer service. I've emailed Halon and have had a reply from the owner, Haris, who seemed quite nice and helpful. Keen to hear your thoughts