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That's what makes it so bloody great 🙂

I’m a bit of a Tech21 fanboy, so I’m probably biased. They’ve been making preamps for bass and guitars for absolutely ages and I’ve never had a day’s issue with any of their products over the decades and their customer support is exemplary in my experience (they’re even BC members). I currently use a VTDI which gives me a wide array of Ampeg type tones, but other tones are available and it’s been a staple of my pedalboard since I bought it (so long ago I can’t remember, but around 10 years ago). Others swear by the BDDI and the Paradriver. Their products are definitely worth a look.

Cheers Neil but if it doesn't happen i'm not sure it will bother me too much. Having a bit more time this year i might decide not to sell the old Harley after all 😂 Dave

I had much the same question earlier this month... n my case after a lot of YT review watching i grabbed a Sire Z7 5 string at just under £400 (b-stock) from Thomann....Lovely neck, a very versatile and great sounding Pup/Preamp set up, Quality hardware and finish that felt way above it's price tag...setup was dog doo but might have been due to changes made by the first buyer... all that said it's boxed up waiting to be collected by DHL for return because it's boat anchor heavy, not that i was expecting a Light bass due to the alder body, but the shortness of the lower horn makes it impossible to play while sitting because it either slips off you leg or neck dives. Id say Jakester's Yamaha above is a total bargain, id have taken it myself but 17mm is my max tolerance for spacing these days I've found. GL

This. I reckon a 5 needs a longer scale length for the B to work well, too. The best sounding 5 for not too much money I've come across was a Lakland Skyline. Lakland 5s have a 35" scale, which does seem to make a difference. They can be had used for less than a grand. I'd save up a bit more, rather than going for something at the moment when you don't have a lot of spare cash.

Yep the Genzler Magellan 800 is a fine amp too

Interesting, in this video I preferred standard PJ configuration! Of course he's playing with a pick which will highlight the overtones. He also doesn't get into 60s versus 70s J spacing which will add another minor variable. Cool idea for a testbed bass. ...and down the rabbit hole I go 😆

Looks like a vintage-ish Fernandes P (hardware looks old) that someone has recently decided to cowboy-up with a novelty leather/pleather exoskeleton. In contrast to the metalwork the stuff on the body is unworn, the stitching's intact & looks perfectly clean, & the studs on the back are new-looking & shiny. I doubt it's been played much since it was done. I shall reserve my opinion on the aesthetic merits of the modification - and I'm sure we can agree that's for the best...

Here are some pics of mine...

That's Mr Pink thank you very much

I have found that 4 string basses can sound decent at almost any price point, 5 string less so. I guess it needs good stability, pickups etc for a decent B string and that tends to cost. The Cort Space 5 is decent if you are okay with a headless bass. I assume their things like the GB range are good too.

"Ashdown Made in the UK showcases a premium range of bass amplification hand-built at Ashdown's UK HQ, combining British craftsmanship with modern performance." so yes.

Status Graphite sell short scale flats, darned good price too. I think they're made by Picato for them, could be wrong.

Ah yes, roundwound only. If you look to Europe, there's Galli and Tomastik who both make decent flats.

I apologise, I did not see that before I posted. Rean are a subsidiary of Neutrik, and although they are normally not specified for as many insertions as the Neutrik equivalents, they are usually reliable. I would suspect the socket based on my own limited experience.

The drummer from my gig on Saturday was talking about them. They're playing locally to me supporting Gong. The drummer saw them earlier on the same tour and when they appeared on stage his heart dropped seeing the costumes, but he said they were excellent. I've watched a live set from Glastonbury on YouTube. Not 100% my thing but closer than most of the acts there. 🙂

The actual output is affected by quite a number of things. Speakers are inefficient things half the output is from the rear of the cone and the main job of the cab is to stop that from reaching the sound at the front andcancelling it out. with half the air pushed forward and half back you get no movement overall and very little sound. You can try this at home just put a signal into the speaker before you mount it and all you get is a very quiet tinny sound. The speakers work by increasing pressure in front of the moving cone. That 'squashes' the air which then expands back when the cone reverses direction. Those pressure changes are then turned into sound waves but this in turn is inefficient. Bass instrument speakers are typically 1-4% efficient with large cones more efficient than small ones, all else being equal of course. You can check that too, just pop across to Blue Aran and check the reference efficiencies. Horns increase efficiency by acting as 'acoustic transformers' decreasing the high pressure at the throat to low pressure at the mouth so more energy is turned into sound. Doubling the cone area with two speakers couples them and you get 3db from increased efficiency. Power compression is a seperate phenomenon. Coil temperatures can reach 232deg C (Fahrenheit 451, and I had paper coil formers catch fire in the old days) and you can lose 5-6db with copper coils at these temperatures https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_compression In practice of course we don't put pure sine waves through amps and music at 225W peak isn't the same as a test signal. Different speakers also address heat dissipation with different levels of success so temp rise is always different between drivers but 3db loss isn't unusual. All of this isn't needed to know that a pair of 8ohm speakers gives a huge boost to your sound compared with a single driver with the same amp and 6db is what you'd roughly expect.

I have always found Andertons to be very fair on this type of thing and have had replacements within the 30 days. One of the things to remember is that in this case the problem is with two connectors, and it may be unclear which has caused the problem. Those Anderton's cables would be fitted with what are considered cheap connectors, however, I have seen low cost XLRs that are very good. In saying that, a non-branded XLR got stuck in a Citronic power amp I bought. IMHO it was the socket fitted to the amp that was at fault but as both XLR connectors were os unknown origin, who knows As for the EV speakers, I cannot see what connectors EV/Dynacord use but if they were also not Neutrik, Amphenol, Switchcraft, Cliff or HiCon, I would be uncertain who is to blame. Of course, it could be the Wetware!

Nice....sssssssss