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Posted

I’m looking for a book which explains setting up a bass. YouTube is ok to an extent but I’m really looking for a guide that I can consult whilst going through the process.

Posted (edited)

This book is excellent, but out of print since a few years:

 

IMG_20260102_111756.thumb.jpg.436644bed0da720edc5ea590d657f68a.jpg

 

That said these Fodera YouTube setup videos are really all you need:

 

 

 

Edited by Hellzero
Grammar
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Posted

Honestly, learning by doing is best. If you want a short cut, I'm happy to demo my method with you, if that would be of use/interest?

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Posted
On 29/12/2025 at 21:58, Hutton said:

I’m looking for a book which explains setting up a bass. YouTube is ok to an extent but I’m really looking for a guide that I can consult whilst going through the process.

 

It's very much a step by step process, and once you understand the purpose of each step, you don't need much other than guidelines and guide measurements. And apologies if that sounds patronising.

 

Are you starting from an instrument with possible issues with fret heights, or is this a bass which just needs truss rod, bridge height, and intonation set up?

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Posted
5 hours ago, tauzero said:

 

It's very much a step by step process, and once you understand the purpose of each step, you don't need much other than guidelines and guide measurements. And apologies if that sounds patronising.

 

Are you starting from an instrument with possible issues with fret heights, or is this a bass which just needs truss rod, bridge height, and intonation set up?

I don’t have any particular issues apart from the humidity/weather changing things. I think with the advice given here I’m getting to grips with it. Thanks everybody.

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, itu said:

Dear @Hellzero

I do not know anything about that. I have only seen that publication, and pictures of his various basses. 

Don't ever try to ask him something even kindly, you'll understand what kind of person he really is and what his only goal is.

 

Edited by Hellzero
Spelling 🤦🏻
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Posted (edited)

Both guides look pretty comprehensive to me with only a few nit-picks for either.

 

But it's worth having a reminder about the sequence - because EVERTHING on a bass affects EVERYTHING.

 

The WHAT

The recommended sequence is:

      1.  Check and, if necessary, adjust your trussrod

then

      2.  Check and, if necessary, adjust the string heights

then

     3.  Check and, if necessary, adjust the intonation

 

(For those who are interested) The WHAT and WHY

 

The recommended sequence is:

      1.  Check and, if necessary, adjust your trussrod

The trussrod tension affects the action height.  So there is no point in checking your string heights unless and until you are happy with the trussrod setting

     

      2.  Check and, if necessary, adjust the string heights

Now the truss rod is set, the string heights can be checked and, if necessary, adjusted.  Remember that pressing a string down to the fret is exactly the same as sideways bending a string that is already fretted - it will tighten the string and raise the pitch.  The amount that the pitch raises is similar in either plane.  So a 3mm string height above the fret pressed down to the fret will raise the pitch pretty well as much as a 3mm side bend of the fretted string. 

 

     3.  Check and, if necessary, adjust the intonation

Now that your string heights are set, then you can adjust your intonation.  Remember that what is happening when you are fretting at the 12th fret - because of the slight curve in the neck being deepest at the mid point - you are vertically bending that string the maximum amount it will suffer in normal playing.  If your string height is, say, 2mm at the 12th, you are bending the string the same as a 2mm sideways string bend.   And it will sharpen!  And so, to make sure that the bass is still in tune at the 12th fret when the strings are pressed down at the 12th, the saddles need to be moved back a little.  And the thicker the string, the more pitch is affected by the bend, the more the saddle tends to be moved back

 

So now we have a bass that is spot on tune with strings open and at the 12th fret.  What about the other frets??  Well - remember that the 12th fret is the worst cases in terms of the amount the string is being vertically bent.  There are tuning discrepancies up and down the fretboard but, most, are inaudible to, most, listeners.  And if that bothers you, just remember my adage that 'the definition of a bass (and guitar) is "a series of compromises held together by hope!" '  :)

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Posted
3 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

you are happy with the trussrod setting

 

If I recall your demo at the last Midlands Bass Bash, the way for this was to measure the gap between the frets and a steel straight edge with the neck under tension. You recommended a business card difference presumably at 12th.

 

In the absence of a long straight edge then clamping a string at 1st and last fret. In the absence of business cards then use a feeler gauge.

 

If you fancy repeating that demo at the Bash on 20th June then I'll video it for posterity and transcribe it.

 

Posted
On 02/01/2026 at 11:18, Hellzero said:

That said these Fodera YouTube setup videos are really all you need:

 

 

 

It's already filmed and explained here the same way. 😉

  • Like 1
Posted
48 minutes ago, Richard R said:

 

If I recall your demo at the last Midlands Bass Bash, the way for this was to measure the gap between the frets and a steel straight edge with the neck under tension. You recommended a business card difference presumably at 12th.

 

In the absence of a long straight edge then clamping a string at 1st and last fret. In the absence of business cards then use a feeler gauge.

 

If you fancy repeating that demo at the Bash on 20th June then I'll video it for posterity and transcribe it.

 

I agree with @Hellzero that the Fodera videos pretty much cover it.  Not overly sure it covers the sequence and the reasons for that sequence and hence my extra post - if folks understand why they do certain things, better chance that they will be able to work out the right action if something unusual pops up.

 

Ref the amount of gap, my actual target is 'just-perceptible movement' when you tap the string at the middle of the fretboard.  The business card guide is more of an absolute maximum gap rather than a target. 

 

Ref 20th June, MrsAndyjr1515 hasn't told me yet what decision I am going to make ref holiday weeks...  :lol:

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