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4 minutes ago, Obrienp said:

Interesting. Not bad for fixed neck as well. I wonder if they vary but a friend said his was over 4.5kg and he had heard of heavier.

Having done a lot of research into this (due to my neck and back issues), walnut bodied Rick 4003S models are generally below 9 pounds and often around 8.5 (c 3.5kg). The traditional jetglo/fireglo etc 4003S and 4003 are maple bodied and almost always between 9-10 pounds (4.1-4.5 kg)

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Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, Obrienp said:

Interesting. Not bad for fixed neck as well. I wonder if they vary but a friend said his was over 4.5kg and he had heard of heavier.

Not two equal sized pieces of the same wood type weights exactly alike, not even from the same tree, and sometimes the variations can even be fairly significant.

 

Edited by Baloney Balderdash
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49 minutes ago, Simon C said:

My 2022 Walnut 4003 weighs 3.8kg. I’d have thought that’s on the lightish side for an (almost) long scale bass.

The walnut bodied ones are the way to go if you prefer a lightweight bass. The maple ones, however, often drift into boat anchor territory, much like my old 4003s. If only I hadn’t been seduced by the Fireglo finish, I might still be a Ric owner. :facepalm:

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3 hours ago, Lozz196 said:

I use 50-105 Elixir steel rounds on my Mustangs @dmc79they get fairly near the feel/tension of the 45-100s that I used on my Precisions. 


Thanks, I recall you liking those before. They are coated right? Medium or long scale? 
 

I’d just moved onto GHS Pressurewounds on the P bass, really nice smooth rounds with reduced finger noise, like slightly worn in rounds right out of the packet. Doesn’t look like they do them in medium scale, which is a shame. 
 

Do people use long scale strings on Mustangs? If so I do have a set of ML7200 Pressurewounds I could try. I already know not to use short scale on Mustangs, I learned that the hard way last time. 

 

 

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I just fitted some medium scale tapewounds to a CV FSR Mustang, all bar the E string are on the posts on the silks with the silks finishing roughly level with the string tree button, the E string is nearly 1 wind on the post beyond the silks.

afaik Fender don't make a Mustang specific string and it seems like they fit long scale strings cut to length from the factory, certainly on the Squiers

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I have my best and favourite TI Flats fitted to both my MIJ Mustang and Squier 'Vista' Musicmaster.  The short scale set are 32" scale (JF 324 - the clues are there! :)) and fit just fine with the through-body stringing. 

Edited by Paul S
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15 hours ago, dmc79 said:

 

Do people use long scale strings on Mustangs? If so I do have a set of ML7200 Pressurewounds I could try. I already know not to use short scale on Mustangs, I learned that the hard way last time. 

 

 

LaBella do a set of flats specifically for the through-stringing the Mustang. think they're called FL-MUS or MUS-FL. I've got some on my JMJ, great strings.

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3 hours ago, bassist_lewis said:

LaBella do a set of flats specifically for the through-stringing the Mustang. think they're called FL-MUS or MUS-FL. I've got some on my JMJ, great strings.


Thanks, I mentioned that I think that’s what’s on them anyway. I suspect I’ll prefer D’Addario medium scale rounds anyway. Just deciding between regular light 45-100 or regular 50-105.  
 

I’ve seen that if the E is too thin, it’s floppy & boingy like a rubber band, or if it’s too thick it ends up sounding muddy. Interested in thoughts on best gauge for Mustangs, particularly with rounds. Thanks 

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27 minutes ago, dmc79 said:

 

I’ve seen that if the E is too thin, it’s floppy & boingy like a rubber band, or if it’s too thick it ends up sounding muddy. Interested in thoughts on best gauge for Mustangs, particularly with rounds. Thanks 

I've used 100 and 105s on most if not all of my basses (all short scales) and not felt either was better or worse. I did feel that stainless steels had odd overtones above the 7th fret, but that could be a twisted string or that particular bass (Callowhill). I'd try stuff and see what gets closest to the sound in your head.

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58 minutes ago, dmc79 said:


Thanks, I mentioned that I think that’s what’s on them anyway. I suspect I’ll prefer D’Addario medium scale rounds anyway. Just deciding between regular light 45-100 or regular 50-105.  
 

I’ve seen that if the E is too thin, it’s floppy & boingy like a rubber band, or if it’s too thick it ends up sounding muddy. Interested in thoughts on best gauge for Mustangs, particularly with rounds. Thanks 

 

Another D’Addario rounds user here on my Mustang, although I am still using up my store of 34" scale strings I bought years ago when they were half price somewhere or other! My preference is for Nickel EXL160 50-105's which IMO have more than enough clarity and presence without being too thin, bright or muddy - my tonal preference is for a fairly flat response with deep but controlled lows, plenty of mids and a defined but not shrill high end. Tension is perfect for me too. More presence and definition than with flats but without being too bright or brittle sounding, but still the low end punch. They're usually good for anything up to 2 years of regular gigging before they get too dull for my tastes. 

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There is a short scale ACG Krell for sale on BC. If you live near Liverpool I’d strongly advise you to go and take a look if you’re after a modern bass.

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Hi all! First post here. Never played a bass before. 60 y.o., bad back, small hands, so short scale appeals to me. I'm thinking Ibanez TMB 30, Ibanez GSRM20B GIO miKro, or Harley Benton PB.

 

I promise I'll try before I buy because it's largely a subjective thing, but with that out of the way, please feel free to tell me what to buy, and/or make any comparative comments. I'm certainly interested in build quality and reliability, but other comments would be gratefully received :)

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18 minutes ago, yangtze2000 said:

Hi all! First post here. Never played a bass before. 60 y.o., bad back, small hands, so short scale appeals to me. I'm thinking Ibanez TMB 30, Ibanez GSRM20B GIO miKro, or Harley Benton PB.

 

I promise I'll try before I buy because it's largely a subjective thing, but with that out of the way, please feel free to tell me what to buy, and/or make any comparative comments. I'm certainly interested in build quality and reliability, but other comments would be gratefully received :)

Start with a 305 😉

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Welcome to BC @yangtze2000, I play short scale (I entered bass playing with a ubass and find longer scale lengths hurts my back and hands ... cause I'm old!) and have a GSRM20 and GSRM25.  Very happy with both!  Build quality is good for the price, tho the pickups are not the best ... one day I'll probably upgrade to EMGs ... but they are not awful so I continue playing with them.

I did try a TMB35 and found it had horrific neck dive, not sure if the TMB30 does.

 

The only drawback I find with the GSRMs is given their 28.6 inch scale length there are not many strings that suit.

 

Trying them might be an issure as I am not sure there are many (any?) UK stockest who carry them in store, but if you buy from a decent online store you can often return within 30 days if you do not get on.

 

Sam x

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27 minutes ago, yangtze2000 said:

Hi all! First post here. Never played a bass before. 60 y.o., bad back, small hands, so short scale appeals to me. I'm thinking Ibanez TMB 30, Ibanez GSRM20B GIO miKro, or Harley Benton PB.

 

I promise I'll try before I buy because it's largely a subjective thing, but with that out of the way, please feel free to tell me what to buy, and/or make any comparative comments. I'm certainly interested in build quality and reliability, but other comments would be gratefully received :)

:crigon_04:
 

Unfortunately, you might struggle to try a Harley Benton, unless it’s a used one in a store, as they’re only available from Thomann IIRC.

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34 minutes ago, yangtze2000 said:

Hi all! First post here. Never played a bass before. 60 y.o., bad back, small hands, so short scale appeals to me. I'm thinking Ibanez TMB 30, Ibanez GSRM20B GIO miKro, or Harley Benton PB.

 

I promise I'll try before I buy because it's largely a subjective thing, but with that out of the way, please feel free to tell me what to buy, and/or make any comparative comments. I'm certainly interested in build quality and reliability, but other comments would be gratefully received :)

Greetings! In the lower price range, I'd recommend the TMB30 as being the best value IMHO and the one you're most likely to find in a shop to try out. You won't get the neck-dive issue mentioned on the 5-string TMB35.

 

Obviously, the bigger your budget, the greater the choice but I'd recommend starting off at the cheaper end. You'll soon find out whether you enjoy playing and can then trade up and move your first bass on without losing much money (there's always a market for good, used TMB30s). Alternatively, your next move could be to upgrade to a better set of strings.

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I picked up a TMB30 as a mod project. I liked the shape , it reminded me of some of Paul Barth’s designs in the late 50’s. I had mixed first impressions. Neck dive , heavier than the basses I had been using ( to be fair I had been playing some very light short scales) and quite a wide chunky neck.

The neck is still chunky but I quickly became accustomed to it. The weight doesn’t bother me , and the dive is not severe.
Try the Gretsch G2220. Good price , not a bad little bass.

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NBD yesterday. Sire U5 fretless from Thomann. Quite a lot vested in this for me, as I sold two basses to raise the cash for this. Suffice it to say, it was worth it. So far I am very pleased with the little Sire.
 

Others have reviewed the fretted U5 and as far as I can tell, this is identical save the black plastic inserts where the frets would normally go. It seems to be really well made for this price point. Fit and finish is spot on right down to the set up. It perhaps needs a bit more relief on the neck but that is easily fixed with a tweak of the truss rod. The neck has a lovely feel with beautifully rolled edges and an extremely thin matte coating on the back (gloss on the board). At the moment I can’t think of anything I would want to change on it. Even the OEM flat wound strings are good. They have a nice feel and suit the instrument well. I’m not sure what brand they are: not the usual D’Addarios, as they have blues silks at both ends and plain ball ends.

 

Time will tell how the hardware lasts but it seems perfectly acceptable. The machine heads are identical to Northwest Guitars own brand vintage style, which are sold as an upgrade for Squiers, etc, so I am hoping they will last a bit. The bridge is chunkier than your average Squier ash tray and the ridged saddles are a nice touch. It can also be strung through. Unfortunately, it has an unusual screw at each corner mounting system, which makes upgrading a little less straight forward. 
 

As can be seen in the picks, it has a flamed maple top with edge binding and a plain painted brown back. It’s a carved top, which stops it from being a completely slab body. It gives it an arm contour of sorts but no belly cut. Viewed from the side the profile seems to do the reverse and actually bulge at the belly but it is comfortable on a strap nevertheless.  Despite the maple top and binding it seems very light because the body is quite thin front to back. I haven’t had a chance to weigh it but I would guess around 7.5 lbs.

 

I would certainly put this on your list, if you are looking for a short scale fretless. It is reasonably priced and nicely made. Bizarrely, it cost £40 more than the fretted version at Thomann.

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On 31/03/2024 at 19:15, Osiris said:

 

Another D’Addario rounds user here on my Mustang, although I am still using up my store of 34" scale strings I bought years ago when they were half price somewhere or other! My preference is for Nickel EXL160 50-105's which IMO have more than enough clarity and presence without being too thin, bright or muddy - my tonal preference is for a fairly flat response with deep but controlled lows, plenty of mids and a defined but not shrill high end. Tension is perfect for me too. More presence and definition than with flats but without being too bright or brittle sounding, but still the low end punch. They're usually good for anything up to 2 years of regular gigging before they get too dull for my tastes. 

 

On 31/03/2024 at 19:30, Lozz196 said:

I prefer 50-105 so as to get heavier strings on the D & G, to counteract against the pickup positioning. Def sound more balanced to my ear than 45-105.

 

Thanks. I've put a new set of D'Addario EXL160M 50-105 nickel rounds on my MIJ Mustang. Already the tension feels better with the clacky flats off, especially on the E. The necks on these are ridiculous, so fast & easy, especially when combined with the reduced finger stretch of SS & Jazz nut. I like it a lot but the acid test will come when I stand and actually play it properly, and discover if I can deal with the lack of body & arm contours. Just a few mins standing at home with it strapped on, and I really miss the P bass arm contour particularly. I've never really even thought about the fact that it exists on a P body, until I play a bass without one. It's whether I can adjust hand positioning comfortably enough and get used to it, as playing with the slab body digging into my right wrist isn't much fun the way I'm used to playing. 

 

The neck is fantastic but time will tell if I can deal with the slab body. Am I right in thinking that the only Mustangs with a body contour are the 70s competition ones, and the current Vintera II 70s comp reissue ones? I can clearly see they have a body contour but can't make out from the pics if they also have an arm contour. Do they? I guess some people like the go-faster stripe, but I have to say I'm not one of them. Does a Mustang with body & arm contours and no stripe exist? @Lozz196 I guess you've adjusted ok to the lack of contours on the JMJ? 

 

Edited by dmc79
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I'm fine with a slab Mustang, but found a slab Stingray a tiny bit tricky when seated. I had a flat top Bacchus jazz which had quite a sharp edge which wasn't very comfortable either.

 

Belly cuts though - never seen the point. Maybe it's just me but the way I hold a bass, the belly cut is quite far to my right and not near my belly at all. I guess they save some weight, but if I actually put my belly there the bass would be wayyy too far to my left!

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