Do you cut your strings to the "correct" length?

[Roland Rock]

What's all this about cutting strings? I've never done it; I just insert the end of the string into the middle of the post, then wind till it's in tune, making sure that the break angle is such that it will never pop out of the nut slot.

Is this bad practice? Both basses keep their tune very well. Will they explode??

Edited September 7, 2013 by Roland Rock

[wateroftyne]

Na. If it works, it's fine. I never need to cut 'em on Fenders... the string is always wound to the bottom.

[discreet]

They won't explode. I cut my strings to length for speed of restringing. I'm too impatient to sit there for what seems like hours winding away until my arm aches. There are those who say that using the whole string leads to problems with staying in tune, but I've never found it to be the case. At least not on Fender headstocks. I have used the whole string on occasion and have noticed not the slightest difference as regards tuning problems (or lack of them) so whatever works for you, really.

[ezbass]

The only point of cutting off 'dead length' (I do BTW) is to decrease slippage due to poor or overlapping winds, resulting in tuning stability issues. Far more important on treble guitars.

[dudewheresmybass]

I always cut mine. Mainly for neatness' sake.
I hate the beehive look of tons of string around the post.

[mep]

My E string and sometimes A string are cut. Winding a full length E string is a pain as there is always too much for my liking.

[JapanAxe]

I follow guidance I got from Fender's website years ago. Install the string at the bridge, lay it flat to the tuning post, measure the following distance past that post, cut string at that point, then complete fitting in the usual way:

G/D/A - 4.5in
E - 4in
B - 3.5in

Works for me.

[discreet]

[quote name='JapanAxe' timestamp='1378567623' post='2201937']
I follow guidance I got from Fender's website years ago. Install the string at the bridge, lay it flat to the tuning post, measure the following distance past that post, cut string at that point, then complete fitting in the usual way:

G/D/A - 4.5in
E - 4in
B - 3.5in

Works for me.
[/quote]

I'll try that next time - about 2020, I reckon.

[mep]

I'll try that next too thanks.

[KiOgon]

Shirley it depends on the strings - some you have to cut, some you don't.

I rarely cut any off except maybe a little off the E for Fender headstocks, I like plenty of winds down the post but never overlapping or bunching.

[BigRedX]

Angled headstocks - 90mm each string = approximately two turns around the machine head which is the optimum length to hold the string properly in place without there being too much that leads to extra tuning instability on new strings.

Non-angled headstocks - all sorts of different lengths. TBH I can't be bothered with this anymore so I'm in the process of selling my last non-angled headstock bass.

[Thunderbird]

I always cut about 3 inches from the end of the tuning peg that the string is going on off on my bass

[molan]

I always aim for 2-3 winds for sake of tuning stability and neatness.

Does depend on the type of tuner though. Some simply won't take more than 3 winds before they start going badly out of kilter.

[dave_bass5]

I always cut a full thumbs length past the post off the strings. Seems to work well for my Fenders.