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Hipshot A and B style bridges come in solid brass and with a narrow string spacing option which should work for the Musicmaster: [url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=13"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=13[/url] [url="http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=350"]http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=350[/url]

Bridge pickup position is 60s on standard Warmoth bodies. 70s position is a custom option. The 3 3/4" mentioned above refers to the size of the bridge pickup rout which is slightly longer than the neck pup (3 5/8").

Jules recently bought my Zon Legacy Elite fretless 5. Straightforward transaction and a very pleasant chap to deal with. Many thanks Jules and enjoy the bass!

Hmm an interesting test! #5 sounds different to the rest so I'd say that's the Fodera. #1 and #3 sound a tiny bit crisper so I think the '72 is one of these (say #3) The rest all sound much the same to me ...

Scojack I think you've explained it very well! Passive pickups usually have a very distinct resonant peak at some frequency which gives them a characteristic sound. This resonant peak (and the frequency response in general) varies depending on the pickup windings, coil configuration, magnets etc. Active pickups on the other hand have a flat and broad frequency response which provides a fairly neutral basic sound. They responds more linearly to tweaking with active eq across a wider frequency range (hence more hifi, greater clarity etc). Active pups can also be used with passive eq. To my ears though they can sound a bit characterless in this configuration.

Can you post a link for "Bass Players Sell - Buy - Swap", I can't find it on FB

A word of caution - you'll need to take all the strings off to do work on the fingerboard and there's a high risk that the soundpost will fall over (which will then require a trip to a luthier to install it again). This thread may be of some help: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/259480-taking-all-strings-off-and-keeping-sound-post-in-place/"]http://basschat.co.u...-post-in-place/[/url]

Thanks Muppet, it must be standard 60s placement then, or as near as makes no difference.

Thanks. On my JO4 (60s position) the bridge pup is 367 from 12th fret and distance between pups is 90mm so looks like the DJ4 is a bit different to a standard J.

Thanks DrDrill! That's 60s position which is surprising as it looks a bit closer to the bridge than a JO4 (44-60) in the pics. Some confusion on web about these being 60s or 70s position. Can you also let me have the measurement between the pickups (centreline to centreline). Cheers

If anyone has a DJ4 or a DJ5 could you please let me know the measurement in mm from the 12th fret to the centreline of the bridge pickup. Not clear from Lakland details whether DJ4 is 60s or 70s position and DJ5 looks to be somewhere in between (I know it's 35"). Many thanks

Here's an article that explains the science behind pickup placement: [url="http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponse/"]http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponse/[/url] And here's a link to a nifty java applet that shows the frequency response for different pickup positions. Just enter the numbers for scale length, distance from bridge and aperture (use 1" for a J type single coil and 2" for a P type humbucker or soapbar). The freq chart will dynamically change as you enter the numbers. You can also add multiple pickups. [url="http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/index.html"]http://www.till.com/articles/PickupResponseDemo/index.html[/url] Here's some pickup positioning data to use (distance from bridge in inches): Jazz neck (60s) - 6.1 Jazz bridge (60s) - 2.55 Jazz bridge (70s) - 2.16 Precision (57 on) - 5.39 (centreline) Precision (pre 57 s/c) - 6.56 Stingray - 3.46 (centreline) Wider aperture pups (eg P/HB type) generate more comb-filtering and frequency cancellation than narrow aperture pups (eg J/SC type). This is why SCs usually sound clearer and punchier than HBs. Adding multiple pickups also introduces more comb-filtering and frequency cancellation which is why single pup basses often sound clearer and more 'direct' than multiple pups which tend towards having a more scooped sound (with both pups on).

It's usually Pau Ferro. The SR5 page on the MM website says this: Fretted - maple or rosewood; Fretless - Pau Ferro with or without inlaid fretlines; Stealth - Ebony Fretted or Fretless

Part of the issue with standard VVT wiring is that when both pups are fully 'on' the pickup impedances interact with each other. As you back one pup off this introduces a resistance between the pups and the interaction/loading stops. This all happens in the first few degrees of turning the pot and the overall effect is that the sound seems to 'switch' to the dominant pickup with very little blend in between. However, there ARE loads of useful blended sounds in this very small area. Once you get used to the idea that you just need to move the pot a tiny amount you will start hearing lots of different tones. This is where the 'sweet spots' are. Here's a trick worth trying - instead of having both vols fully open, back them both off very slightly. This introduces some resistance between them and stops them interacting. Use this as your start point and you should find that backing each vol off further will result in a slightly more smooth change in tone. Another way of preventing the pickup impedances interacting is to wire a small resistor (eg. 25k) in series between the hot wire from each pickup and their respective pots. This effectively does the same thing as backing both vols off a touch. If all that sounds too fiddly and doesn't do what you expect then go active and get a buffered blend! Personally I like the subtleties and slight quirkiness of a VVT configuration. It lets the full character of each pickup come through. A blend pot can sound a bit bland in comparison. But in the end, as with everything to do with tone, it's very personal and down to what works for you.

The cheapest set of bass nut slot files I can find are these - [url="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bass-Guitar-Nut-File-Set-3-double-sided-w-case-/121493237325"]http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bass-Guitar-Nut-File-Set-3-double-sided-w-case-/121493237325[/url]. About £45 incl shipping plus an import handling fee (around £8).

Thanks. The Roth and Chrisopher seem to be pretty much the same bag as Owen spotted.

Thanks Rev, does the Christopher bag unzip like in the pic below of the Roth & Junius one (with the zip sort of going half way up behind the headstock rather than completely opening out)?

Thanks Owen. Mmm, wheels or no wheels ...

Haha! Let me sleep on it (I mean in it)

Thanks Happy Jack, unfortunately I don't have a lot of room and ideally need something I can fold up and stuff under the bed when not in use!

Thanks Henry. What material is the Westbury made of? In the DJM pic it looks like some sort of shiny nylon but in the specs it says cordura which is more like heavy duty denim. Also does it unzip fully and open out flat? My current cheapo cover doesn't and it's a pain to get on and off.

I'm looking for a decent DB gig bag in the £100-150 price range. Something which unzips completely and opens flat (like a kipper), with well positioned carrying handles, sturdily built and won't fall apart after a few gigs etc. Are any of these any good (or to be avoided)? Roth & Junius BSB (£130) - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/rothjunius_bsb_3_4_bk_bass_soft_bag.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...ss_soft_bag.htm[/url] Gedo luxury (£135)- [url="http://www.gedo-musik.de/shop/product.php?id_product=168"]http://www.gedo-musi...?id_product=168[/url] Tom & Will superior (£140) - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/tom_and_will_superior_double_bass_gig_bag_3.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...s_gig_bag_3.htm[/url] Ritter RCDB700 bass bag (£155)- [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/ritter_rcdb7009tbst_34_bass_bag.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...34_bass_bag.htm[/url] Christopher PV502 (£160) - [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/christopher_pv502_ol_3_4_double_bass_bag.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...le_bass_bag.htm[/url] Recommendations from more experienced DBers than me (ie. anyone) would be much appreciated. Thanks for any advice or guidance