ikay

Here's a rather unique Legacy Elite 5 fretless. An unusual single pickup version built in 1988 for a well known UK pro player and used on many sessions and albums. Flamed koa top over poplar body. EQ has been professionally replaced with a Stingray 3-band (original pro owner prefers the SR frequency centres to the stock Zon eq). Sings like a bird. A bit too much for me to be honest, I'm more of a plunker! Will be putting it up for sale shortly. I feel more at home on an old P or J these days (getting old!) [url="http://s1090.photobucket.com/user/iankay/media/Zon%20Legacy%20Elite/IMG_1892.jpg.html"][/url]

Here's another schematic for the Enfield Super 8 pickup - [url="http://www.enfieldguitars.com/Enfield%20instructions%20page1.pdf"]http://www.enfieldguitars.com/Enfield%20instructions%20page1.pdf[/url] Not tried one myself so can't comment but I'm sure there's a pretty wide spectrum of sounds on tap with all those different coil combinations. All the switching options shown here are also parallel. I'm not sure why they don't offer series switching options as well. I've tried Stingray HH and HS models but actually much prefer the single H config. The other coil combinations sounded different but, to my ears, the single H setting still sounded best. More direct and punchy than the other coil combinations, some of which were a bit too scooped and polite for my liking. Who wants a 'polite' Stingray? Enough people to carry on making them I guess! What do I know

The Babicz is another drop in replacement worth considering. It achieves much better coupling with the body without adding mass (it's about the same weight as a BBOT). [url="http://www.babiczguitars.com/full-contact-hardware.htm"]http://www.babiczguitars.com/full-contact-hardware.htm[/url]

Luke just bought an MXR M288 octave pedal from me. Very straightforward transaction, good comms and immediate payment. Pleasure to do business with. Cheers Luke

Stradi Symphony? - [url="http://guitarz.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/stradi-symphony-five-string-fretless.html"]http://guitarz.blogs...g-fretless.html[/url] Or one of these other Stradi models: - [url="http://www.stradi.pl/nature_eng.html"]http://www.stradi.pl/nature_eng.html[/url] - [url="http://www.stradi.pl/excellence_eng.html"]http://www.stradi.pl/excellence_eng.html[/url]

Babicz FCH4 also fits with no mods

The zero fret may be the same height as other frets or a little higher. Depends on the manufacturer and how well the neck tolerates a low setup. Using the same size fret wire will often give a slightly lower open string action than a traditionally cut nut. This can cause a bit of open string buzz if the neck is very straight (ie. minimal relief). Using a slightly larger fret wire for the zero fret gets round that. The zero fret on my Hofner is slightly bigger than the others for example.

Zero radius feels completely natural on my ACG. What that means is I don't really notice it, it just works and feels right. I also find a 7.25 radius feel right on my old Fenders so not sure that zero radius is 'better' as such, it's just another take on the multitude of neck profiles out there. Zero radius is easy to set up though and does allow for a low action.

No, a higher nut doesn't have the same effect as you are saying, you will still need the same amount of neck relief. Think of it this way - a higher nut effectively gives you a lot of relief behind the point that you are fretting (which just makes lower notes harder to fret). It makes no difference at all to the height of the vibrating part of the string which has been 'anchored at that fret and still needs the same amount of neck relief to play without buzzing.

I had a jazz pleked at Charlie Chandlers a couple of years ago as I wanted a lower action and was disappointed with the results. I took it back to have the frets re-dressed and setup manually and it came back perfect. The plek machine is no substitute for a good guitar tech IMO

The nut to bridge length distance doesn't matter in this case (unless you want to use the existing side dot markers)

As long as you don't take any notice of the neck side markers then yes that should work fine

GP11 service manual with circuit diagrams can be downloaded as pdf here - [url="http://elektrotanya.com/trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass_sm.pdf/download.html"]http://elektrotanya.com/trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass_sm.pdf/download.html[/url]

FWIW here's another thread on the same topic - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188772-jazz-bass-stacked-knob-compared-to-v-v-t/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188772-jazz-bass-stacked-knob-compared-to-v-v-t/[/url]

You've answered it yourself - when the button is IN the signal is pre-EQ which means the signal from the XLR output is not affected by the EQ settings on your amp. Sending a clean bass signal to the PA (rather than a signal that has been tweaked for your stage sound) is generally a good thing so this is the setting I'd use.

The latest I've seen with slot head screws is 1981 and the earliest I've seen with hex screws is 1982 so I think the change was made somewhere around there

Doesn't the intonation screw just need a regular Philips screwdriver (small/medium ish size)?