ikay

No, a higher nut doesn't have the same effect as you are saying, you will still need the same amount of neck relief. Think of it this way - a higher nut effectively gives you a lot of relief behind the point that you are fretting (which just makes lower notes harder to fret). It makes no difference at all to the height of the vibrating part of the string which has been 'anchored at that fret and still needs the same amount of neck relief to play without buzzing.

I had a jazz pleked at Charlie Chandlers a couple of years ago as I wanted a lower action and was disappointed with the results. I took it back to have the frets re-dressed and setup manually and it came back perfect. The plek machine is no substitute for a good guitar tech IMO

The nut to bridge length distance doesn't matter in this case (unless you want to use the existing side dot markers)

As long as you don't take any notice of the neck side markers then yes that should work fine

GP11 service manual with circuit diagrams can be downloaded as pdf here - [url="http://elektrotanya.com/trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass_sm.pdf/download.html"]http://elektrotanya.com/trace-elliot_gp11-ah350-ah500-mk-v-bass_sm.pdf/download.html[/url]

FWIW here's another thread on the same topic - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188772-jazz-bass-stacked-knob-compared-to-v-v-t/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/188772-jazz-bass-stacked-knob-compared-to-v-v-t/[/url]

You've answered it yourself - when the button is IN the signal is pre-EQ which means the signal from the XLR output is not affected by the EQ settings on your amp. Sending a clean bass signal to the PA (rather than a signal that has been tweaked for your stage sound) is generally a good thing so this is the setting I'd use.

The latest I've seen with slot head screws is 1981 and the earliest I've seen with hex screws is 1982 so I think the change was made somewhere around there

Doesn't the intonation screw just need a regular Philips screwdriver (small/medium ish size)?

Completely agree. I was very disappointed with the Sonuus and couldn't get anything close to sensible note tracking with it. I guess it's possible to get it to work, otherwise how could they sell it, but it's definitely doesn't do what it says on the tin ("plug and play, fast and accurate, ultra low latency" etc).

Thanks Geoff. I'm just trying to find a case that will fit it for shipping (I've just bought one and the depth measurement given to me by the seller doesn't sound right so I'm trying to check) I know the body depth is 2". What I need is the overall depth including the height of the bridge on top. I guess an estimate of 4" would probably do it. If no one else chips in I'll go with that. Cheers

If anyone has a Senator or President could you please let me know the overall max depth from top of bridge to underside of body. Many thanks

Ta for the link. An interesting mix of miniature ornamental basses and real ones! Worth keeping an eye on by the sound of it

Good buy! Where do you find the 'damaged stock' offers on the Thomann website?

I messaged the seller to clarify what it was and they said it was a custom build. Pic of back showing through neck construction attached.

I find DR Sunbeams a littte warmer than most. The round core also gives them a softer feel which I think helps.