ikay

My Zon Legacy Elite fretless was, I have to admit, superb. For some reason I didn't really bond with it though, partly I think because I just prefer the feel of wood. I put this down to old age and approaching senility.

A sweepable mid-freq control (like the East Mid Sweep) or an ACG/East filter based-preamp may help you find the tone you're looking for. I've had both on my ACG fretless (at different times) and both offer much more flexibility and control over voicing the tone to your taste than a regular fixed 2 or 3-band eq. Particulary effective for fretless.

Seems a bit of a one sided discussion! To balance things up I prefer wood. Granted composite is more consistent, but a traditionally built bass with a fabulous neck is a rarer beast altogether and a thing of great joy. It's the vagiaries of natural materials combined with craftsmanship and a dash of serendipity that give instruments individuality and character. Graphite is just good engineering, every one identical, consistency rather than character. Any one can do that

I've often wondered myself. Identical apart from bridge, pickup and pickguard as far as I can see. The Musicmaster 2-saddle bridge is a bit of an irritation but the strat type guitar pickup on mine sounded remarkably good!

For ref, the centreline of a Stingray pup is 344mm from the 12th fret. Scaled down for a 30" neck this would be 303mm. Same measurement to centreline of a P pup is 295mm (or 260mm for a 30" neck)

"..what makes a sound musical - or not..." First you need to define what you mean by 'music', for example: - the expression of definite or abstract ideas and emotions using rhythm, melody, harmony and timbre/texture, sometimes in conjunction with words, using any source of sound including silence Any sound used in the above context can be considered musical (even silence) Any sound not used in the above context isn't IMO

Aha, that looks like them! Thanks discreet

Yes that old chestnut! I've searched around but having difficulty identifying these (see pics below): - roundwound (feel like nickel) - red silk at peg end - no silk at ball end - coloured coded ball ends Any ideas?

Beautiful, thank you

Template for standard Fender neck pocket with hole positions in attached pic in case that's of any use as a reference (taken from Warmoth site).

You can buy slotted metric grub screws from here but min quantity is a box of 200 - [url="http://www.avonstainlessfasteners.co.uk/misc-stainless/slotted-grub-screws-flat-point-m3-m10-a4-din551"]http://www.avonstainlessfasteners.co.uk/misc-stainless/slotted-grub-screws-flat-point-m3-m10-a4-din551[/url] There's a good chance that yours are imperial slotted screws anyway as most metric ones are hex. Here's a quick way to check. Vintage US Fender slotted screws have UNC 6-32 thread which is the same as the long saddle intonation screw. Try removing one of the intonation screws and see if it fits the height adjuster thread. If it does then it's likely the whole bridge assembly is imperial and the vintage slotted screws should work.

[url="http://www.bassplayer.com/gear/1164/tech-bench---mod-squad-potent-pot-mod/27204"]http://www.bassplaye...t-pot-mod/27204[/url] See fourth para 'cooking with pots' (not tried it myself)

How about one of these (the split coil one) - [url="http://g-l-online-store.myshopify.com/collections/pickups/products/mfd-sb-2-bass-pickups"]http://g-l-online-st...-2-bass-pickups[/url] I'm just about to put a G&L MFD humbucker in a P as a sort of homage to the L-1000 but wish I'd bought an MFD split-coil at the same time to try that as well. I can feel another visit to the G&L shop coming on ...

"... strap button on back of bass" I've just found that Dingwall do this with a flush mounted Dunlop strap pin on the back of the body.

I can't offer any advice (need some myself) but there are some good pointers here - [url="http://truefire.com/blog/guitar-lessons/10-bass-solo-tips-non-soloist/"]http://truefire.com/blog/guitar-lessons/10-bass-solo-tips-non-soloist/[/url]

Excellent!

This thread from the LR Baggs forum mentions this preamp - [url="http://www.lrbaggs.com/forum/showthread.php?132-Mystery-Baggs-preamp"]http://www.lrbaggs.com/forum/showthread.php?132-Mystery-Baggs-preamp[/url] It gives a contact at Baggs who might be able to help with the wiring connections - Bryan McManus (email: [email="bryan@lrbaggs"]bryan@lrbaggs[/email] Tel: 805-929-3545 ext 111) Maybe worth dropping him an email

Apparently moving the bridge strap pin partway up the lower bout (as on a Spector - see pic below) helps to counteract neck dive

I think the original double cutaway acoustibass was made from 1990 to around 1993. Lovely looking bass

The CX range was a lower cost Charvel offering from the early 90s, made in Japan and a bit of googling suggests decent quality. There's one on Gumtree at the moment - [url="https://www.gumtree.com/p/guitar-instrument/charvel-cx-precision-bass-p-bass-guitar-w-fender-headstock/1134445471"]https://www.gumtree....tock/1134445471[/url]

Thanks Chris and that's good to hear. Eternal are pretty easy for me to get to as well. Cheers

It works fine with a low B but is a bit sensitive to where you clip it on the headstock. In some positions it picks up a harmonic rather than the fundamental.

This [url="http://www.jazzstudies.us/"]http://www.jazzstudies.us/[/url] is a great free online resource for 'standards' charts. You can even change the key (see drop down box under 'Fake/Real Book Index Search)