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bloke_zero

⭐Supporting Member⭐
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Everything posted by bloke_zero

  1. That was a lovely thing - sorry I missed it!
  2. Candy Tangerine!! My favourite. Now I'm searching the old for sales!
  3. MJT make nice stuff - reputable, but in the US. They've teamed up with USACG who made the nicest neck for me - sweet true and double carbon truss rod light. Check ebay - they put up a bass a day. Or you can order direct but it'd be $400 or so - you can order them undistressed (I would!). https://www.mjtagedfinishes.com/bass-bodies-and-necks https://www.mjtagedfinishes.com/metallic-colors#Shoreline-Gold
  4. Yes - it feels like it might be right - it's already a very individual bass - this would take it the next level of strange character.
  5. I recently bought a lined fretless bass not really being sure that I wanted to go that way but feeling I could always get another neck or get frets put in. I was doing a session with a fret nerd guitarist mate and he suggested getting the bottom 7 frets put in and leaving the rest fretless, so not the fret the bottom 2 -3 strings but across the finger board fret the 7 lowest frets across E A D & G Madness? I quite like the idea but I'm guessing there is a reason no one does it. I really like the neck profile and feel. And and I really like playing fretless but the music I play benefits from having frets (crisper attack, and some slap bass where the metal twang from the frets is good). What do you think? Best of both worlds or just mad?
  6. Roasted maple? Best of both worlds or milky chocolate abomination? You decide
  7. Thanks @ikay - maybe I confused the 2 things - I did them at the same time - but it sounds like I'm just hearings things - oh well - thanks!
  8. Hi! I've been messing around with the basic PTB scheme on a bass I put together with a single nordstrand MM4.4 pickup (so I'm not using the switching - I've just a series/parallel switch). I wasn't liking the sound too much as it it was until I started looking more at the L1000 schematic and adding the 200pf cap at the volume seemed to help a lot - like reduced the ear bleed treble and a sort of ringing that I had without it. The circuit is here: I sort of understand the basics (sort of!) of the circuit but I had some specific questions and I wondered if any one knew or could steer me to the right place to look. The question I have are what does the 200pf cap across those pins on the volume do & what does the 6.8K resistor on the treble do? I'm guess the 6.8K is just providing a static reduction to the treble? Seems like this circuit is getting me where I want to be and I'm tempted to put in the OMG switch -see what it does to the Nordstrand.
  9. I bought this custom precision from @foya and I am very happy - he packed it very very well and it arrived in the UK safe and sound - I've been playing it for a couple of hours and I am very impressed with the way it has been put together - Thanks Foya!
  10. And they have some really smart configs - P + MM Stingray pup layout on the California always made that look like a real workhorse for a certain kind of player.
  11. That is a thing of beauty! I love those Warmoth bodies - would you say the mahogany colours the sound much? Do you have any examples of how it sounds?
  12. I like the lodestone slanted headstock idea - strong break over the nut would be good for intonation right?
  13. Yeah - I'm tending more in that direction. Or some sort of bride of funkenstein homebrew monster with a p-body, 70's stingray profile neck and an overwound p pickup wired passive - maybe in candy tangerine... I liked the tone of the pro - felt solid!
  14. I tried all the new non-signature p-basses in there - really quite liked the Vintera, the Mexican built Player was ok - the action you could drive a bus under - apparently all the new basses in there are straight from the factory but the have a 3 year set-up and repair warrenty on all their basses, but I still liked the American Pro the best - it felt like the output was just in a lower register and the set-up top-notch. It just felt 'right'. I'd be really interested to try the American Standard - see how much difference there is. Next week I'm going to try all the 2nd hand ones, maybe I'll skip the £6K '66 though :-0
  15. Yeah - Tom is good guy - thoughtful and interested.
  16. I'm going to go down later and play that american pro - one of the nicest basses I've played - good tone too. But yes, the price! I'm interested to try some of their others - now intrigued by the mexican builds. By the way - did you try the brown 70's stingray? That is an amazing playing bass!
  17. Hmm, that looks like it's probably PHILIPPINE MAHOGANY (RED MERANTI) - thanks though.
  18. Interesting! I played an early pre EB stingray yesterday (the most amazing dark brown colour) and it had the studs but not the mutes - I thought it was missing the mutes. Good to know!
  19. The studs are for the mutes on early stingrays you can see more here: http://www.musicmanbass.global/bridges-pre-eb-eb/
  20. Hi! I'm thinking of putting together a pbass that sort of hits that 'duh' woody spot and was interested in trying out a pbass body in mahogany. I was looking at MJT in the states as they will build one to order and I have a thing about their candy tangerine nitro finish, but I saw these guys: https://www.guitarandbassbuild.co.uk/collections/ready-ship-bass-bodies/pb-45-string-bodies/bass-guitar-body-precision-alder-2pc-2-25kg-161019p1/ And wondered if anyone had any experience with them, or suggestions for keeping it in the uk? Really I'm not too worried about the finish.
  21. I almost got my head around the passive bits - the active stuff is beyond me! Interesting to know - thanks.
  22. I'm ashamed to say it but I like more a jazz slim neck and this is more P the neck details are (from the description above): NECK WIDTH AT NUT: 1 3/4" NECK RADIUS: 12" NECK PROFILE: medium C I wish I hadn't put that in there as its so subjective!
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