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Everything posted by bloke_zero

  1. Yes, I wouldn't have thought that would make much difference, I was more thinking of the damage to the neck over time. A bass is for life - not just for christmas!
  2. Ideally you want something that won't get compressed over time. When I did some research it seemed the ideal was a piece of maple veneer shaped/sanded down from 1.5mm (or whatever) at the pickup end to nothing at the headstock end of the pocket but covering the whole neck pocket area so you don't 'staircase' the neck: https://hazeguitars.com/blog/the-perils-of-bad-neck-shims You can get a maple veneer sample for a quid or so online and sand it down - I did that on a fretless I've got and it worked a treat. You can get different thicknesses of maple veneer depending on how much you want, but 1.5mm seemed good. Or you can get premade shims from stewmac.
  3. Nice - I really like how the warbird came out - you could totally imagine someone hanging off the front of a mad max vehicle rocking out with that!
  4. I definitely think it's worth trying them out - I was trying them out vs an EMG geezer butler and a handwound boutique 70's style PU and they all sounded totally different. I didn't feel like they sounded better or worse than each other but the Warman was, like I say, very full range and clear, the Geezer rounded, mid focused and the boutique was hard to describe - sort of scooped lower mid with extra low end. The magnet material seemed to be a lot of the sound - the other 2 were alnico 5 and the Warman ceramic - from their site: In the end I went with a dimarzio split-P wired parallel which sounds totally different again, but felt right for the application. Obviously the signal chain will make a lot of difference. I'm a firm believer in getting the foundation tone right for you so that its easier to get the right tone at the end of the chain. But I think that's a lot more important for some kinds of music than others!
  5. I'd say they are full range, clean and modern sounding - not classic round.
  6. I found these really useful: https://www.elixirstrings.com/tipsandtricks/setting-up-bass-guitar In addition you just need the feeler guages - bass direct do a £20 ish bass/guitar set up kit,
  7. Fender standard is 2.5mm at 12th fret (give or take - they have more info here: https://support.fender.com/en-us/knowledgebase/article/KA-01903). It may well not come that way! I agree with ezbass. Personally I like the Fender standard settings. I think setting the action without ensuring the neck relief is correct first is asking for a cascade of niggling issues. When getting a new bass I'd hope to get a free setup from the shop, if second hand I'd want to do or buy in a setup.
  8. I like allparts, great solid necks. Can be a bit chunky but you can always get it shaved a bit.
  9. And the cap value will make a difference to the amount of treble that gets rolled off - they go from .1uf to .068uf to .047 - most people go .047 with the higher values taking out more of the top end when turned down.
  10. Reverb is the place if you're not in a hurry - you can put it up at a silly price and see what offers come in. With rare kit like this someone with funds will come along and buy it, and if they want it badly enough will pay a lot. I'd chuck it up with some good photos, well described at 2.3K and start dropping the price when you have a few watchers. I know that the players in the house will shout that it isn't right, and I'd agree on one level, but there are modern options for the players. Condolences on your dads passing - not much in life is harder than that.
  11. I think you're on the money with the Sandberg. I've not played one though! On paper it looks like the perfect bass to me - P + MM and they have a great reputation.
  12. He clearly had a unique vision for that bass - one that not many people shared!
  13. I think I was following that bass on Reverb with a view to do the same - glad it's gone to a good home (was the ones with the death head pick up surrounds?!)
  14. I've got a split p running in parallel and it's just the right about of grunt vs clarity for me.
  15. For the OP - I think it's ok to want a modern Fender and sensible to want to find a good example.
  16. Probably still worth a trip down to Denmark Street - there will be enough variety there to at least get a feel for what you would get. I used to go down to Wunjo at lunchtimes (when we still worked in the office) and playing a bunch of basses back to back really gives you a feel for individual basses - they are all different! You can check their stock on line.
  17. They might have bought a few thousand when they were reaching EOL - probably not expensive in bulk. Terrifying! I am glad you're both ok!
  18. Sorry for muddying the waters!
  19. It caught my attention, but I ended buying a different PCB as I understood the Alembic was based on the old Acoustic 360 preamp (went down the rabbit hole on this one trying to find Larry Graham!) so I bought the PCB for one of these: http://www.lynx.net/~jc/pedals360.html But I've never built a single sided board before so it's sat in my todo pile for a long time - other peoples build threads seem pretty hairy compared to a through hole PCB build. I'd be interested to hear any experiences!
  20. This - I found the coating seems to get grabby depending on the humidity - cleaning the coating off should help and playing them in for some time. I think you made the right call though sorting it out to your satisfaction before hand!
  21. That is a big part of the appeal for me. Many many thanks! If you're ever down North London way I owe you a pint!
  22. Can anyone measure the pickup placement for the California VM for me? I have a bass I built with MM and P pickups that I want to get a new body for and I think the VM looks like the perfect placing for what I want. Needs to be from the 12th fret to the middle of the pole piece to be really useful. Thanks!
  23. My ‘74 p bass - was Olympic white.
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