bloke_zero

You're right! Sorry. Ok - GHS boomers - brightish, growly and aggresive to complement the HH.

The new one or the old one? The new one is more like a P-bass: flats for detroit, rotosound rounds for rock. I'm a big fan of GHS Boomers for a middy aggressive sound (Flea the most Famous endorsee). The old one (dual humbuckers), I'd be thinking round wound? It really depends on the music you're playing?

Probably just a mistake packing? I'd send them the picture and ask for a proper replacement.

Nordstand might have the right options for you? They make some nice MM and Jazz PUs and do old school flavours...

I was wondering that too! Sort of like a euclidian random walk? In terms of the benefits to the sound it might help you sound like a drunk with concussion? Joking aside it's supposed to even out the magnetic field or something?!

Love the look of these! What is the scale? Medium?

I've had some work done by them in the past and got a '72 p-bass pickup from them. The attention to detail and character was great - in the end it wasn't quite what I wanted, but in a way that feels like a tribute to the work they put in - you could very much hear the difference. I'd be confident that they were making the right moves to get a great 62 copy - they do loads of high end guitar repairs, a lot of rewinds and have seen the inside of everything.

Nice solution - easy to reason about, easy to implement.

Looks and sounds lovely to me!

It shouldn't be impossible - someone will know. There are a limited number of formats for these things. You'd need to find the make (like Molex?), the type, the size and whether you need some cripplingly expensive crimping tool to make it work. It might well be you can get a couple of them off ebay for a few quid and use needle nose pliers to attach the crimp terminals. I'd have thought they would be somewhere in the technical documents for the preamp, or someone on a Yamah specific forum could tell you the exact model number etc.

I'm with you. I love the dark rich roast colours. I tried this: I only put on a light coat and then quickly polished it off. If you wanted darker then you can leave it on. I'd be tempted to try it out on something non-precious, or maybe the hidden bit of the back of the neck to see if it's going to do what you want. It felt more brown than the rich yellowy brown of roasted. I'd be wondering about a double stain to get that kind of texture. But it might get you close enough.

Ah, the joy of overdrive in all it's many flavours!

Cool project - it came it very well! What are the trimmers trimming? And no replication of the Sag?

I got one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GYWLR9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I liked the outcome - it was gentler than I expected, but I fully reccomend trying it out on another piece of wood first. It took some of the sharpness off the fret edges as well.

That's my favorite for MM. Mainly use parallel and some single for when thin and gritty is needed. There isn't quite enough distance between the coils to get much variation. Series often a bit overblown for me, but I can imagine it might come in handy.

Cool project!

Where from? All I'm seeing is this one: https://www.lightningboyaudio.com/2020s.html Edit - sorry, I wasn't looking right: https://lightningboyaudio.com/store/p69/mic_input_transformer.html

I agree - setting the neck relief before adjusting the bridge saddles is the best way. Trying to fix these problems without the right neck relief can be impossible.

& my mate Max says 'action so low it slaps itself'. I dunno how useful that is though!

It's not easy to get a good slap tone! There are a bunch of good videos - Scott is always good!

Here is the Albridge - I'm pretty happy with it. Below 👇 https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk//hardware-parts-c1/bridges-tailpieces-c2/bass-c96/armstrong-music-musicman-style-bass-bridge-chrome-p2093/s2780 Has tracks for the bridge pieces so they don't shift around like the ones on yours.

Sounds great - very even and defined. There is such an incredbible range on the Lusithand that I started having to take notes on the good ones. Especially when you get into blending pickups. I still really like the filter boosted and totally open or just pulled down a notch - adds a lovely air and bite. The turners really seem to add to the clarity and definition!

You're already getting better results than me! Ok, time to get some kind of mini anvil!

I tried this - I reccomend experimenting with a spare enclosure or something. The amount of force required to get a good imprint is quite high, so you will want to have a piece of wood inside directly supporting the metal as you strike it, otherwise it is possible to dent/deform the metal. I think they also flow ink inside the stamped indentation or something as otherwise it's pretty illegible. In my head I think it went: 1. stamp lettering, 2. clean with IPA (so ink can stick), 3. ink lettering, 4. buff/clean surface. But that was just what I thought on the basis of not having really got it right. Look forwards to seeing your results - it's a lovely aesthetic as you say! As for getting the finish - maybe dremel? Though you probably want something with a larger polishing surface so it's nice and even.