bloke_zero

Overwound would be a good example - https://www.fralinpickups.com/2019/10/24/overwinding-and-underwinding-a-pickup/ hotter, but also 'thicker'

I have a '38 Rickenbacher lapsteel that I inherited (they changed the name to be less german after the war). Hand wound around a massive magnet. It does sound, er, warm and I suppose dirty - it's the same basic design as the rickenbacker horseshoe bass pickup, but I've never played a ric bass.

Hmm, good question - and so subjective! I'm going to say DiMarzio Model P? I have some EMG active P and know what you mean by clean. I don't have model P's, but I have some PAF ones which are supposed to be pretty consistent with the modern Model P. Interestingly they are ceramic. Looking forward to other replies!

Also: https://lusithanddevices.com/product/double-nfp-special/

A friend of mine was talking about these (https://aquilacorde.com/en/short-bass-one/) and how much he liked it compared to the u-bass. Anybody had one for a while? I'm tempted by Kala but I understand that they really aren't loud enough to play with, say a acoustic guitar. I'm thinking campfire rather than pub...

That's the trouble - this stuff is invaluable!

I like the geezer, very clear defined sound From that video I prefer the dimarzio - sounds a bit fuller, but still ballsy. I always liked the geezer, but it does seem a bit thinner, more mid. I have an old kramer with pat pending dimarzio P that feels similar to the DP-122, different circuit though. Thanks for posting that! They sound *really* different.

It's a BBOT - I have no intention of changing it - I'm just participating in a discussion 🙂 I've tried all except the Fender Hi mass bridges on different basses, plus a couple of others. I was very excited about the Babicz and pretty disappointed when I finally heard it in situ.

Yeah, but what if you're painstakingly recording something? Some bass tones are irretrievable even with EQ and all the FX in the world. I have a gold sparkle tele bass with a fretless neck (I know right?) - looks like ass, sounds sublime.

I could hear quite a bit of difference. I don't think it would make a huge difference through an amp in a practice room, but you'd hear it if well recorded. The BBOT sounded pretty good overall! Liked the fender hi mass and the baddass - felt like the tonal window was shifted down - got a bit more low mid as well as loosing a little top. The babicz kind of sounded a bit honky - didn't like it as much. Great to hear stuff like that - thanks @Baloney Balderdash

I'm wondering about a small amount of solvent on a cotton pad - if it wasn't too wet and you were super careful - you could always try a small spot and see. Sandpaper I'd worry that it would be hard to not take off the top layer of nitro. I am claiming no expertise!

I built the duocast with a 70's transistor - lovely thing. I've never really used it for fuzz, but the overdrive is really good - it's a bit of a secret weapon more like overdriving an old desk. It also has a transformer in it.

Ok understood! Sounds like maybe it never hardened properly then? There is a thread here about it below - lots of different experiences, but definitely for some the only cure was to remove entirely and refinish - you might be in that category. Though it sounds like trying wax might help? https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/best-way-to-fix-sticky-nitro-neck.2166300/#:~:text=It's sticky because the lacquer,and it'll dry faster.

Is it one of the ones that was just oil and wax over bare wood? Might be worth taking the wax off it is - it might have changed chemical composition over the years! You could then re-apply some new. You'd be able to tell because the back of the neck would be a different colour/texture from the headstock - looks like this: Here's a video on how to re-apply. Gun oil is quite nice to work with -

What an amazing find. The Curlee basses always looked very cool to me with the deep neck placement and Hondo are one of those budget brands that sometimes really shine - this is no question on of those times - good luck with the repairs! I'd try hard to salvage the pickup

Didn't want to start another thread - looks like he's playing one of these here? Amber stain https://www.instagram.com/reel/C_QXCjsuSOJ/

Pretty cool looking - yeah, like the spacing - would be interested to see a basic knob twiddling video to hear the diff

Hmm, yeah - I see what you mean @Andyjr1515 - from the pictures you can't actually see if there is an over hanging fret as we only see the front and back but not the side. If there is an over hang like: Then there is not going to be any problem with intonation as the neck will be in the right place.

I'd not be confident to say this - you could measure the fret and check to see if there is enough play in the saddles? Apologies - I'd not really clocked this aspect of it earlier. I'd wonder if you might not have to move the bridge towards the neck/nut and that would then expose the old screw holes for the bridge. Hopefully someone with more experience will be along!?

The finishing and shaping question is the one for me. What is the thickness of the neck? Are you comfortable reshaping it? I've found cheaper unfinished necks are often a bit chunky. Finishing, I'd use true oil or crimson finishing oil or lacquer - I have done both and the true oil feels nicer to me.

I would have thought the main advantage of maple over card was that it wouldn't compress as easily and you can taper it with sandpaper. Easy to get some maple samples from people selling veneers, then you can cut it the right shape and create the taper. I think that a good tight contact/fit is important for the neck pocket.